24 November 2015

BWOF 4-2009-101

I finally cut out my next, hopefully successful sewing project:  a simple skirt.  At least, the design looks simple.

photo credit:  Miss Celie's Pants

I read through the instructions and have not an effing clue as to what Burda is talking about with the front inset.  The instructions start out okay, then delve into WTF midway through. 

1.  Lay each interfaced front yoke piece on yoke piece with no interfacing RST. 

2.  Stitch along front and upper edges.  

3.  Begin stitching on left front yoke exactly on seam line of joining edge.  

Um...okay.  What joining edge?  The edge that will eventually join with the side front?

4.  Trim seam allowances.  

5.  Turn yokes right side out. 

This wasn't done already?

6.  Work buttonholes in right front yoke.   

7.  Baste right front yoke to left front yoke, matching centres and not catching left yoke piece with no interfacing.  

What are you talking about?

8.  Clip allowance at marking on right inside yoke piece.

9.  Stitch yoke right sides together with upper edge of center front skirt panel, not catching inside yoke pieces.

Again, what are you talking about?  So the inside yoke piece isn't attached to the center front panel at all?  How does that make this stable?  I am so confused!

The instructions for attaching the facing are equally confusing.  I normally don't include facings on skirts, but I couldn't think of a better way to clean-finish and stabilize the top edge.  Ugh!  Maybe I should have read the directions first before cutting out my fabric.  Waaaaah!

Oooooooh Shaaaron!  You've sewn this skirt, yes?  What in the holy hell is Burda talking about? =)

Anyone have any ideas?


15 November 2015

I Need a Reboot

Sewing has come to a near-complete stop.  With my weight all over the place, nothing fits and my sewjo is on leave.  Clothes I made as early as May don't fit now (too tight) and I'm sour about it.  Waaaaaah! 

Wadders are again ranking supreme this year.

Vogue frankenpattern pants
Yeah, I think they're headed back to wadderville.  I tried to take out some of the fullness in the lower leg, but now the grain is off and the leg is too tight.  I have zero desire to try and fix them.

BWOF 9-2006-114 (sans pockets)
Still on the hunt for a wrapped dress, I muslined this pattern.

The verdict?  I need an FBA.  I knew I needed it just looking at the pattern.  But I forged on anyway.  Even with the generous give in my knit, the bodice is still too small.

Butterick 5678
This is the very popular shoulder princess seam button front shirt.  I attempted this pattern three times and have concluded that it just doesn't work for me.  When I shortened the length, the shirt was too tight and wouldn't button.  When I restored to the original length and took smaller seam allowances, the shirt was big and unsightly.  Uncle!

Simplicity 1523
Simple knit top, right?  Wrooooong.  The bust pleats are an epic fail.  No amount of pressing flattens these things and it is not a good look on my bust.  If I try this pattern again, I have to move the pleats or something.

 (photo credit:  Judy Sumler)

McCall's 7254
This was a fail because of the fabric.  I used a medium-weight sweater knit with too much crosswise stretch.  As a result, the front droops horribly and looks unkempt.  The only photo that exists is on Instgram and, now that I think about it, I think I deleted it.  It's awful, really awful!

Starting from Scratch Challenge
While this isn't a wadder per se, my progress is stalled.  I made it as far as Step 7 but stopped because one of my garments from a previous step is a disaster and I lost motivation.

I made another version of my TNT New Look 6407, but with the collar stand only.   For some reason, the fit is terrible.  Terrible!  The collar stand is inches away from my neck and the neckline gapes horribly.  I have enough fabric left to cut a new stand and collar.  But the sewjo...

Sooooooooooooooooooo yeah.  I need a reboot.  I don't know what to sew and I need clothes.  Even my palate-cleaning jeans aren't motivating me right now.  I need to find something to sew that can accommodate weight changes and that won't frustrate me too much.

On the bright side, my pottery is on jam.  I finished this lamp several months ago and finally wired it up yesterday.

I have another completed lamp that needs wiring, but I ran out of parts.  I'm working on another set of dishes for myself and for a dear friend.  I also have some lidded jars and vases in the works. 

Until next time, peace!


26 October 2015

From Wadder to Wearable

About those Vogue pants...

I did something that I rarely, if ever, do.  I picked the entire garment apart, save for the zipper, pockets, and back princess seams.  Okay, so not the entire garment...but still.


Proof!  You can even see the picked serger threads.
I don't sew enough as it is.  To pick apart and re-sew something in which I have little interest is breaking new ground.  For real!  I have a huge bag full of 'meh' and UFOs ready to be donated to whoever wants to use the scraps.

Why did I do it this time?  I figured that with the wonderful suggestions left in the comments, I would have to cut another muslin and check the fit.  Why bother with that when I already have a 'meh' garment headed to the donation pile? 

So there I sat, picking every serger and sewing machine stitch whilst watching Project Runway's Edmund piss away his dreams on a red carpet hoochie dress.  Bruh!

I digress.

Before and after:

I still have some tweaking to do, but this is miles better than before. The after picture (on the right) has some whiskers on the front because the waistband isn't attached.

Vogue 9032 has waaaaay less fullness below the hip.  Below is a comparison of the pieces:

 center back; upper and lower halves
 9032 on top of 2921

I don't know why the pattern in the second piece looks crooked.  I didn't press the pattern pieces (bad sewer), so maybe that's contributing to the optical illusion.  I was surprised to see the depth of the crotch curve on 9032.

 side back; upper and lower halves
2921 on top of 9032

I placed 2921 on top of 9032 to see the difference in hip curve.  2921 is essentially a chunky rectangle with no regard for curvy hips.  This style may look good on other figures, just not on mine.  In the picture on the right, the lower half could stand to lose more width.

9032 on top of 2921
The difference in width is drastic and starts almost immediately below the crotch line.  I removed all of that nonsense.

I took off the pattern first, and then laid the pattern on top of the pants and trimmed away the excess.

I only made changes to the front to check the fit.  I'll unpick the back princess seams and trim away some more fullness.  I noticed that the back inseam swings to the front because the front hem length is shorter than the back - which means the back hem is too wide.

Going forward, I will use the front of 2921 and the back from 9032.  I suppose I could use either waistband, so I'll likely cut both and see which one gives the best fit.

I hereby dub this frankpattern Vogue 2932.  See what I did there? =)

Because I cannot seem to work on just one project at once, I am in the middle of another version of BWOF 8-2005-102 out of a navy blue wool.  I'll finish that first before resuming work on the pants.

Thank you everyone for offering suggestions.  I think this may be a TNT.

Until next time, peace!



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