20 August 2009

New Look 6508 (jacket)

I am bad at blogging. I know this. I actually have several posts in queue, but I haven't posted them because I feel compelled to close out this one. I don't want to make a habit of starting a topic and not finishing it. I've done that once already with the woven blouse.

In my last post, I mentioned getting a jacket to fit. I started the jacket as part of a class on Pattern Review and am happy to say that after a substantial hiatus, it is almost complete. It took me a long time to finish the jacket for two main reasons: family drama and fit. I will not bother going into the details of the family drama. It's around me enough every day and I don't want this space to be invaded or consumed by it. As for fit, I thought the muslin looked really good. But, when I put on the actual garment, I saw a few problems: the bodice fit isn't that great, the shoulder seams are still too long, and the sleeves look too long and full.

At my last sewing get-together, I took it to show my friends and get their opinion. Nicole and Rachelle both had very positive things to say. They did not see any of the issues that I saw and thought I should just finish it. Here's how the jacket looks so far:

Fabric used: The fabric used a a 100% wool tweed from the Fabric Warehouse in Romulus. I love this fabric. I love it so much that I went back and bought enough to make the dress from this pattern and a pencil skirt to go with the jacket. I even went back a second time to get more of the fabric and made Simplicity 5914. More on that in another post...

Fit and size: As mentioned before, I did not do any alterations to this jacket. I simply cut a myriad of sizes and blended when needed. Thinking that the fit wasn't that great, I decided to alter the pattern for future use. Eventually, I will try this pattern again in a stretch corduroy from my stash. I am going to participate in the upcoming fall wardrobe contest on PR and don't have this pattern worked into the rotation.

Construction: All seams were sewn on my machine. I only used my serger to finish the armhole edges. I cut 2"-wide bias strips to bind the neckline. I was going to just serge and press up the lower hem. But this pattern does not have any hem allowances; which struck me as odd. After studying the instructions and consulting Shannon Gifford, we discovered that the jacket is finished by bagging the lining and thus the hem allowance is the same as the seam allowance. Since I don't like that finish on this particular garment, I will go ahead and bind the hem as well.

This is part of the reason the jacket remains unfinished. I do not know how to mitre corners and something has to be done so that the front corners look smooth.

Wearing it: I don't think I'm going to wear this jacket with a skirt in the same fabric. I think it's colour/fabric overload for me. Instead, I'll probably wear this with a pair of jeans or slacks and some nice loafers. Classic, chic, and preppy.

I hope to have this finished by the end of next week. I've checked out some videos on YouTube about mitring corners. We'll see how that goes!


1 comment:

  1. The jacket looks great. Check out Palmer/Pletsch, I believe she has a book or dvd on mitered corners.


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