25 July 2010

Jalie 2561: Part 2 (fitting the back) & Zipper Construction

Fitting the Back
Since I can't find any pictures of the back, I took a look at the pattern pieces again. For some reason, I thought fitting the back was much more involved. I must be confusing this fitting series with that of Jalie 2908 which (after five...yes...five muslins) still doesn't fit.

The backs of my thighs aren't as muscular as the front so trouser pants end up being too baggy in this area. To remove some of the fullness, I took out 0.75 inches of width by using the same alteration as the front. The procedure is exactly the same, except you overlap the intersection instead of spread it apart.

The back crotch curve wasn't too bad out of the envelope. Usually, I have to add some length to the curve for all that trunk junk. Since I am using the wider waistband that comes with this pattern, I didn't see any problems. I did scoop the crotch curve a little at the 'hook' part of the curve.

I am having a serious moment. I started sewing the pants a couple of days ago and have reached a point in the construction where my frustration level is near its maximum. Everything was going smoothly until I encountered the zipper insertion. Normally, I don't have much trouble with fly front zippers but the method Jalie uses in this pattern has me stumped and on the verge of swearing profusely.

I should have known that trouble was brewing when I saw that the outer and inner seams were sewn before the zipper was inserted. Additionally, I should have paid more attention to the fact that the fly front is not cut-on. In other words, you have to sew the fly front and facing to the center front. This creates unnecessary bulk and since my fabric ravels like crazy, this also creates unnecessary headaches.

Having faith that the instructions would lead to beautiful results, I proceeded. I was wrong. I had to pick out the zipper twice. I got so far as attaching the waistband and trying on the pants. Hot. Ass. Mess. I really wanted to enter these into the Natural Fibers Contest on PR, but I can't do it with the zipper looking like this.

So out comes the seam ripper. I took out the zipper and un-stitched the side seams. I also cut another fly front and sewed it to the right front pants with the intention of using Sandra Betzina's Fly Front Tutorial.

I inserted the zipper, again. Strike Two. Hot. Ass. Mess. Again. I don't know what's going on, but this just isn't working. I am using a really nice 100% tropical wool and I don't want to waste the fabric. I will try one more time, but I am about to go ballistic.

Sigh. Sadly after all of this work and five muslins, this project may not happen out of this fabric. If the next attempt at inserting the zipper does not work, I am going to retire this project and try again later. Much later.

Do you have moments like this? If so, what do you do to overcome them?



  1. Sorry the pants are fighting back! (For me, this happens most often when I've been working on a project too long or too late, or when I've "forgotten" to stop for lunch or dinner.)
    Maybe take a day or two off from the project before making your next attempt, and hopefully you'll have much more success!

  2. Check out http://cyberseams.com they hava a tutorial on fly front zipper application. Hope that helps.


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