I've been going through a lot lately with trying to take care of some family business. Though there appears to be no end in sight, I do have a bit of direction on what to do next. As such, blogging about my sewing adventures has taken a serious hit in the priority column.
To help keep my mind fresh and on non-drama related things, I have decided to make a much more conscious effort to update this blog more frequently. I've started with a brand new redesign of the page (thanks Blogger!) and the inner workings of one of my latest sewing projects, New Look 6300.
Non-related random thought: I am listening to Deep Waters by Incognito. Sooo...soothing.
Next, New Look 6300...
I've been contemplating entering the summer wardrobe contest on PR. Though I have not officially entered or followed the discussion, I put together some fabrics and patterns and have started sewing. To date, I've completed three garments, made a muslin for one, and have two others cut out and ready to sew. I don't know that I'll finish the whole wardrobe, but I'm not pressed. I really want to enter the Natural Fibers Contest on PR for this year's American Sewing Expo. I hope to get the muslin for the jacket done this week. Anyway, back to the skirt.
First I have to say that NL 6300 is my go-to pattern for A-line skirts. It is so simple to construct (four pieces total) and is well drafted. I cut a straight size 16 and added a wedge of 1.25 inches at the center back. I have a full seat and the extra length is needed to help keep the hem level. Y'll know what I'm talking about. Don't you just hate it when skirts hike up in the back? RTW skirts always 'tent out' because there isn't enough length or width to accommodate all that trunk junk.
You have a choice in what to do about the curvature in the center back seam. You can either true it and add a little bit of width at the waist seam or leave it alone. I chose to leave it alone. I figure the curvature will help go over the trunk junk.
A burn test revealed that the fabric is a polyester & wool blend. The houndstooth fabric has a nice weight, but is a tad itchy. Instead of using the fashion fabric for the facings, I cut them out of a remnant of a stretch cotton shirting I had lying around. The colour matches the houndstooth perfectly.
Linings help to extend the longevity of a garment as well as aid in minimizing wrinkling. Since this pattern doesn't include a lining, I added one using this Thread's article. This is the only technique I use to line my skirts. I think it is foolproof and very simple. Here's what you do:
1. Assemble the shell as normal including stitching the darts and inserting the zipper.
2. Cut the lining fabric from the skirt pieces. The lining should be shorter than the shell.
3. Assemble the lining in the same fashion as the shell. Of course, do not insert a zipper. =)
4. Assemble the facing pieces and finish the lower edge of the facing.
5. Treat the lining-facing piece as a single unit and attach to the skirt as normal.
Be sure to understitch, trim the seam, and clip the curves as normal. Turn the facing to the inside and press. Slightly roll the facing to the inside. This helps to create a nice smooth and uniform
edge and helps to keep the facing edge of the seam from peeking out.
For fun, I decided to bind the lower edge with a rust/brown single-fold bias tape. I debated using cream bias tape but thought that would be too matchy-matchy. I like the contrast a lot better.
For some reason (probably user error), I have difficulty making the pre-pressed folds work for me when using purchased bias tape. So I pressed out all of the folds. I stitched the bias tape RST using a 0.25-inch seam. Then I trimmed the seam to an eighth of an inch, flipped the tape over, pressed, and edgestitched in place.
The only thing that remains is the hem. I'm trying to debate if I want to include the vent or not. I have enough room to walk without the vent, so right now it's just a matter of preference. The skirt has a vent, but I may just sew it shut.
I made another version of this pattern, view F. This went together quickly and without incident. I used a green cotton denim purchased a few years ago at Paron's in NYC. I topstitched each seam on the front for visual interest. The skirt isn't lined and did not take long to complete.
I attempted to do a lapped zipper and was quickly reminded why I hate them so much. I'm going to leave this zipper in but have no immediate intentions to try another one.
On a hanger, it appears as if the hem is uneven. This is normal because the center back seam is indeed longer than the center front seam. For those of us with trunk junk, this is what you want. When worn, the skirt hem is level.
I have a few projects in queue. This is all for now.