17 July 2011

New Look 6897: Complete

The skirt is part of my Summer 6PAC (blogged here). This pattern was really simple to put together and fits wonderfully.

Fabric & Notions:
  • linen-rayon blend
  • invisible zipper
  • polyester lining
  • 1.5" wide petersham cut to waist measurement plus 4"

Having sewn several New Look skirts, I am fairly confident in selecting a size 16 and not making a muslin. The only alteration I need is a 1.25" wedge as a full seat adjustment. This adjustment helps the fabric go over the trunk junk and keep the hem level.

In skirt patterns that have a center back seam, I actually don't bother to true the seam (gasp!). But since I didn't want a CB seam on this skirt and still needed the extra length, I had to think of another way to make this alteration happen. Here's the process:

(Note: The pictures below are of the alteration to my next skirt, New Look 6274. I neglected to take pictures while altering 6897. )

1. Draw a horizontal line one inch below the dart to the side seam, perpendicular to the grainline.

2. Spread the center back the desired amount. The pattern piece will be skewed a bit near the side seam and cut lines (shown in the black box). Don't do anything with this right now; leave it as it is.

3. Use the grainline beneath the alteration to true the center back. Notice that there is extra width added at the waistline. If desired, you can leave this alone for extra ease. Keep in mind, though, that the amount of room gained is twice the width shown since the center back is cut on the fold. I decided to remove the extra width from the side seam and used Kenneth King's 'no net change' idea to take off the excess.

4. Using a seam gauge, measure the width and transfer this number to the side, measuring in from the cut edge and not the seamline.

5. Remember that little discrepancy in the side seam? If you opted to keep the extra width, just true the side seam as normal. However, if you want to remove the width, use the discrepancy as the ending point of the side seam curve.

Cut off this little piece and voi-la! The alteration is complete. The wedge removed is about the same size and length as the one that was added at the center back.

Lining & Waistband:

The skirt is fully lined with some polyester lining from the stash. I cut all of the primary pieces, less 1" from the hem. I started searching the Pattern Review message boards for ideas on how to face the waist with petersham and instead found information on how to successfully attach the lining to the zipper tape without any hand sewing. In this tip, Sew4Fun describes precisely how to do this.

Basically, you sew the lining to the zipper tape before attaching it to the skirt at the waist. Then once you turn everything right side out/up/whatever, everything folds into place leaving a nice smooth edge at the zipper tape. Next, baste the waist, right sides together and proceed with finishing the garment. It's sort of difficult to describe this in words. When I make the next skirt, I'll try to include pictures of the process.

Waist facing
The pattern is drafted without facings and calls for half-inch wide twill tape for stabilizing the waist. I found this the opportune time to try facing a waist with petersham. W.O.W. Why did I wait so long?! I don't know that I'll ever use waist facings again. I used a combination of tips from Sandra Betzina's Power Sewing and Sew4Fun's skirt review to attach the petersham. I used 1.5" wide petersham cut to my waist measurement plus 4". 4" is probably a bit more than needed, but I cut it anyway to ensure I had enough overlap to fold back on the zipper edge.

1. To contour the petersham, soak it in hot water for a few seconds and lightly pat dry. Using a hot iron and steam, gently build a curve by stretching one long edge of the petersham.

2. Once dry, pin the non-stretched edge at the waist seam; the curved edge should be hanging off of the waist edge. Stitch.

3. Fold and press the petersham to the inside taking care to roll the seam.

4. There should be some overlap on the zipper edge. For the overlap back on itself and secure to the zipper tape. You may need to cut any excess to reduce bulk.

5. To secure the facing, stitch in the ditch along all major seams. For this skirt, that included the front princess seams and side seams.

I hope this was helpful to someone! Until next time, be well!



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