29 July 2011

NL6274: Lining & Facing with Petersham

Attaching the Lining to the Zipper Tape:
This is actually quite simple. I used this tip found on Pattern Review. The tip works if you want to attach a facing, lining, or facing-lining combo to the zipper tape without any hand-sewing.

In the tip, Belinda says to let the facing/lining overhang the seam by 5/8" (1.5 cm). She included a picture of the overhang, but for some reason I can't wrap my mind around the photo or how the overhang factors in to sewing the facing/lining to the zipper tape.

1. Insert the zipper as usual and assemble the lining (facing or facing-lining combo). Arrange the shell and lining so that the right sides face in.

2. Pin the lining to the zipper tape right sides together. I sewed using a 3/8" seam allowance since I didn't quite understand the purpose of the overhang in the tip. This doesn't seem to be posing a problem.

3. Here the right sides are stitched.

4. Turn the lining to the inside so that wrong sides face. Baste

Facing the Waist with Petersham:
Most of the work is done in shaping the petersham to achieve a nice curve so that it molds comfortably around the waist. I used 1.5" wide petersham cut to a length equal to the circumference of my waist where I'll wear the skirt, plus about 2 inches for overlap.

1. Soak the petersham in hot water for a few seconds. Lightly pat dry.

2. Shaping the petersham requires a hot iron a bit of force. I anchored one end of the ribbon to my ironing board using glass-head pins.

3. Moving from one short end to the other, press and stretch one long edge while gently building in a curve on one edge. I don't know if there is a rule or something about how much curve should exist. I just winged it. I've done this twice and don't notice any difference. =)

4. Pin the non-stretched edge to the waist seamline. Since the shell and lining are basted, the seamline is easily visible. The stretched edge should hang off the top of the skirt. In this case, I found pinning parallel to the seamline gave me more stability and control. I was very careful to remove the pins before they reached the presser foot!

5. Edgestitch in place.

6. Turn the petersham to the inside and press, taking care to roll the seam in a bit.

finished inside

While these steps admitted take longer in sewing the skirt, the effort is well worth it. I think this skirt will wear well and last a while. I've worn the flounced skirt so many times already; I just love it.

I'm off to work more on my summer 6PAC. Update coming soon...

Be well!


1 comment:

  1. Hi Lynelle, I couldn't figure out why Belinda mentioned the overlap until now... I've read it time and again but never figured that part.

    But today I was reading zipper tips by 'Denim skirts and other stuff' blog and found her explanation about Kathleen Fasanella's tips on the same subject.. And I found my way to Kathleen Fasanella's tutorial on zipper with lining and something clicked.

    What Fasanella recommends is the facing is smaller than the pattern. If you follow the above link to KF's website where she explains it, you'll see how the outside fabric turns under and forms a lip and provides a much nicer finish because the facing is smaller.

    Now, What Belinda does is keeps the facing and skirt pattern piece same size, but shifts the facing a bit so it overhangs the outer fabric.. This technically makes the facing smaller.. She then cuts it out the overhang along with extra seam allowance in step 2.

    And then when she sews the waist or neckline, she lines up the facing and pattern on the side seams.. and sews the waist /neckline.. This helps the outer fabric and zipper teeth to turn inward and provide a neater finish.

    Both KF and Belinda have the method down pat - how they make the facing smaller is different.

    I hope that helps Lynelle.


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