05 January 2012

Jalie 2559: Getting Started

This is the fourth item of my 2012 SWAP and I'm moving right along with construction.  Jalie writes fantastic instructions for their patterns.  Not only are the instructions thorough and easy to read, the drawings are amazingly clear.  Unfortunately, I have already had some issues with constructing this jacket.

Preshrinking the Fabric
I should have known that this was going to be a PITA project labour of love when I attempted to preshrink the wool flannel in the dryer.  I only meant to leave the fabric in for about 30 minutes.  10 hours and about a yard later, I remembered it was in there.  I am almost certain I had at least 3.5 yards.  Upon measuring, there was about 2.6 yards left. 

Pattern Alterations
Fortunately, what remained was enough to cut out the jacket.  While cutting out the main pieces, it occurred to me that I needed to make the same swayback alteration on the lining piece since the pattern includes separate pieces for shell and lining. After staring at the pattern for several seconds, I noticed that I goofed up the swayback adjustment.  I took out a wedge of 5/8" from side seam to center back, tapering to nothing at the center back.  This is suppose to be done the other way around.  I have NO idea what I was thinking when I did this.  Since I had already cut out the fashion fabric. there was nothing I could do about it.  I just hope that it won't look like too much of a hot mess. As for other alterations, I shortened the sleeve 1.5 inches and that's it!  I made a muslin cutting a straight size Z.  

Welt Pockets
I had some fears about doing a welt pocket since I had never done one before.  I can't emphasize enough how super simple and clear the instructions are.  Before cutting into my jacket, I practiced the technique on some wool flannel and cotton flannel scraps.

outside                                               inside

Not bad, eh?  Yeah, well.  It was pretty bad when I tried to sew the welt pockets for real.  Interfaced wool flannel and welt pockets simply do not mix.  At.  All.  There was just too much bulk in the area of the welt to turn under evenly.  I stitched and unpicked the welt at least five times - each try never improving in look or feel. I decided to scrap the welt pocket idea after already cutting the jacket open at the pocket line.  Determined to save this project, I zigzagged the opening closed and sewed the pocket flap over top.  I need to think of a way to keep the pocket flaps from...um...flapping so as to permanently conceal the welt pocket failure.  Any suggestions?

I've made more progress on the jacket and will describe how I inserted sleeve heads and set the sleeves in my next update.

Until then, be well!


1 comment:

  1. You are doing a great job and looking forward to your jacket.


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