Fitting (Round 1):
There's not much to this first round of fitting. I cut a straight size 14 in the bodice and midriff only, and started by lowering the bust fullness 1.25 inches. Normally I lower a full 2 inches, however when I compared the pattern piece to my dress form (or mannequin as my guy friend insists on saying), it appeared as if the bust curve was almost in the correct spot. I made a 2" FBA and a 5/8" broad back adjustment.
To compensate for the extra width added by the FBA, I increased the width on the midriff front band as well.
(I made additional alterations to the pattern, but the necessity of these adjustments weren't revealed until after the second muslin as described below.)
Fitting (Round 2):
For the second round, I decided to cut out the skirt panels and assemble the dress in its entirety.
The first thing I did was pin the hem at a place that I find flattering on me. Even though it's not clearly visible in these photos, the midriff front was huge. I pinned out a dart of about 5/8" from below the bust to half-way through the midriff front.
Next, I noticed that there was some pulling toward the front at the skirt side seams. At first I thought about reducing the side seam on the back and add the reduction to the front. But, since the front and back side pieces are cut from the same single pattern piece, I'll add one-half an inch to the seam allowance and fit as I sew.
The armhole feels a little tight, so I will scoop out a bit if needed.
Here are the additional changes:
- pinned out 5/8" dart on both the side front and midriff front
- made 1" swayback adjustment above the midriff back
- lowered front neckline 1"
- reduced length 2 1/4"
I intend to use a red silk suiting for the dress and line it with either red or cream rayon ambiance.
I have a few projects that need special attention before I can dive fully into this one. But since I have sewing ADD, I will likely work on a few things at once. Hah.
Until next time...be well!