24 December 2012

Jalie 2559 (jacket): Take 2

Remember this?

I started this jacket at the beginning of the year with the intention of including it in an old SWAP. Unfortunately, due to poor fabric choice and an silly error in adjusting the pattern, the jacket remains as shown in the picture:  a genuine UFO.  This project is a lesson in paying better attention to the list of suggested fabrics printer on the pattern envelope.  While it's probably not impossible to use a thick wool flannel with this pattern, it may not be the best choice and more hassle than it's worth.

Fast forward to today.  I corrected my flawed swayback adjustment and cut out the pattern in a charcoal gray RPL woven.  I had to think about how to approach this jacket because the fabric has a great deal of 4-way stretch (about 25% in each direction).  Based on the responses I received when I asked about stretch versus non-stretch linings, I decided to go with the stretch everything:  stretch lining, stretch interfacing, and stretch cotton poplin for the back stay.  I wanted to preserve as much of the crosswise stretch as possible for comfort, but still maintain some amount of structure.

My only concern going forward is with the notched collar.  The problem with the first version was that the fabric was too thick and made for unsightly corners as you see above.  No amount of clipping made that look any better.  I hope this works the second time around.  If so, be prepared to see at least three or four more versions of this pattern!

Here are photos of the front and back (shown with in-progress McCall's 5523).  I serged the front and back princess seams together and pressed them toward the centers. The bubbling that appears near the upper back only showed up after I added the back stay.  I don't know why this happened, but hopefully it's not too visible while worn.  It's bugging me, though...hmm...

The entire front and side front are interfaced with stretch interfacing.  All hems are also interfaced with  a 2-inch strip of stretch interfacing.  This is recommended by Jalie in their instructions.

Taking a cue from my Lady Grey coat, I drafted and added a back stay to help support the back, shoulder seam, and armhole.  To make the back stay, I traced around the assembled back and cut out the piece on the fold.  I used stretch cotton poplin to preserve some of the fabric's stretch, as mentioned above.  You can do this directly on the fabric without making a separate pattern piece.  I opted to make a separate pattern piece since I plan to make this jacket a few more times. 

I decided to sew a small strip of muslin selvage along the shoulder seam so that it wouldn't stretch.  There are some areas of the jacket that really don't need to grow!

Look at those matching princess seams!  Woo.  I think this is the first garment where both match at the same time.  Seriously!

That's all I have to share for now.  The McCall's skirt is still in the works.  I just received my stretch polyester lining today and hope to have it in tomorrow.  For the jacket, next up is the sleeves and lining construction.  That's going to have to wait until after I finish the skirt.


I want to wish everyone a joyous and safe holiday.  Be well and take care!



  1. Using today to catch up on multitudes of emails and have finally got around to reading this blog.
    I have a couple of questions I hope you can answer:
    1. What is "RPL"? (and another abbreviation I've come across, maybe on your blog, maybe elsewhere is ITY. Would you be able to translate?)
    2. Where do you buy stretchy interfacing? Is it iron-on, or just sew-in? Is there a brandname I could ask for (since we have different stores here in Oz)... last time I asked about such a product I was told it didn't exist!
    Hope you're having a lovely Xmas,

    Jen in Oz

    1. Hi Jen!

      RPL is an abbreviation for 'rayon polyester lycra.' It's a blend of fibers used to make knits and woven fabrics. ITY stands for 'interlock twist yarns.' It's a type of knit that's softer and, in some cases, a bit more fluid than jersey. ITY knits can be made of polyester, rayon, blends, etc.

      I purchased the iron-on stretch interfacing shown in the garment from a local sewing store. I've also seen stretch (or knit) interfacing at our big-box sewing store, JoAnn Fabrics, but the quality is different; it's thinner and a stretchier.

      As for brand names, I think the company that makes one type of stretch interfacing is HTC. The interfacing I bought at my local sewing store didn't have a brand name at the end of the bolt. It was $US 5/yd and about 150 cm wide. An online store, Fashion Sewing Supply, also carries stretch interfacing.

      Email me at yousewgirl07 at yahoo dot com and I'll send you a small sample of what I bought from JoAnn's.

      Have a wonderful holiday!

  2. The jacket is coming along nicely and looking forward to the finale'.

    1. Thanks Sheila. I'm looking forward to the finale as well!

  3. Can't wait to see the finished jacket. Hoping you and yours had a wonderful Christmas!

    1. Thank you Audrey. I hope to have it completed soon. I'm nervous about the notched collar part since that's where the last attempt failed. I hope you had a wonderful Christmas as well!


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