When I first saw the cover of Stitch Magazine's winter 2008 issue, I had to have it. How could I not like this skirt?? It has an asymmetrical design, pleated button closure, and peeks of colour from the inner fabric - all delicious details that make for cuteness on the hips!
Perusing through the rest of the magazine, I saw the pin-tuck skirt below. This skirt isn't as detailed as the one featured on the cover, but it's still different from the average a-line. Since I wasn't sure of how either skirt would fit, I opted for the simplest of the two to get started.
If you're interested in this issue of the magazine, it's no longer available in print. You'll have to purchase a digital copy from Interweave (publisher) for $9.99. The out-of-print copies sometimes go on sale at half off, so if you're in no big rush to acquire the magazine, wait for the sale! Word of caution: the patterns for this magazine aren't available for download. I put in a request on PR for someone who had the magazine and was able to borrow her issue to copy these two patterns.
On with the review...
Fabric & Notions:
- one yard of 100% linen from the stash
- 7" invisible zipper
- one yard of ambiance bemberg lining
- petersham ribbon cut to waist measurement plus a little extra
I don't know what standard is used in determining the US size in parentheses, so I've listed the waist and hip measurements, respectively, for each pattern size.
XS (size 4) 26¾", 36"
S (sizes 6–8) 29¼", 38"
M (sizes 10–12) 31¾", 40½"
L (sizes 14–16) 34¾", 43½"
XL (sizes 18–20) 38¾", 47½"
There are only two pattern pieces. Based on my hip measurements at the time, I traced a size large. Since then, I lost several pounds and ended up sewing the equivalent of a medium. I didn't make any alterations to the length, nor did I add any extra width to the back (like I normally do) to compensate for the junk in my trunk.
While the instructions are simple and easy to follow, I didn't use them. Here's what I did instead:
- You're instructed to sew the darts, zipper, and side seams before making the tucks. I suppose if you're not using a pin-tuck foot, then this order of sewing isn't that bad. In any event, I sewed the darts, made the tucks, inserted the zipper, and then sewed the side seams.
- The waist is finished by folding under 0.5" twice and stitching in place. I didn't think this would provide enough support, so I finished the waist with petersham as detailed in this post.
- The instructions have you finish the hem in the same manner as the waist. I used the rolled hem stitch on my serger.
There are three tucks on the front and four on the back. My skirt only has six tucks because I inadvertently missed one. To ensure that the lining's waist circumference was the same as the skirt's after the tucks were sewn, I estimated the tuck uptake and divided this number by four, since there are two darts on both the front and back pattern pieces. I widened each dart at the waist's edge, tapering to nothing at the dart point.
This is a decent pattern and the tucks add a hint of visual interest. Unlined, the garment is very quick to sew and a great wardrobe builder. While I will may or may not make this again, I will definitely try the asymmetric skirt.
That's all for now. Until next time, happy Monday!