17 February 2013

Simplicity 2648 (UFO): Complete

I do not know what took me so long to finish this dress.  I started it back in 20...um...11?  The most tedious parts of the construction (sewing 16 darts, stabilizing the v-neck, and inserting the lining) was completed back then.  All it needed was a zipper - an invisible zipper that was pressed and pinned to the seam allowance.  Oy vey.  Anyway, it's done and I'm pleased with the results...almost.

Fabric & Notions (if I can remember...):
  • 2 yards of grey 100% wool suiting
  • 2 yards of black Bemberg lining
  • fusible interfacing (to support the neckline, armholes, and zipper)
  • 18" invisible zipper
  • muslin selvage (to form v-neck)
Alterations & Fitting:

The fit for this dress was already worked out when I first made this pattern for PR Weekend Montreal in May of 2010. Though I never blogged about it, I did write a lengthy review which can be found here.  Here are the Cliff Notes:
  • cut size 16 in neckline, armhole, shoulders, and skirt; cut size 18 with D-cup in bodice
  • originally started with round neck; switched to v-neck for fit and flattery
  • pinched out a dart of 5/8" along the neckline to prevent gaping
  • used my draped back sloper instead of the pattern's back piece for a better fit
Since making this dress almost two years ago, my weight has changed significantly.  I dropped 15 pounds, gained almost all of it back, and now am losing it again.  This means that the dress is roomy in areas where it fit nicely before.  Yea...weight loss!  Booooo...side boob.  If I wear this dress, I'll have to wear a black bra or cardigan.  Sure, I could take it apart and sew the seams deeper.  Knowing me, that's not going to happen any time soon - if ever.  My sewing queue is already long enough with garments that I really want to wear now. 

Lining:

First I fused interfacing to the neckline and armholes for stability.  Then I used the "burrito method" for inserting the lining.   

1.  Attach the shell and lining at the neckline front and back.  Turn right right side out, understitch and press. 




2.  The goal is to match the shell's armhole to that of the lining, as shown in these photos.


While the dress is still right side out, roll one side toward the side you want to sew.


3.  Reaching under the roll, grab the armhole edge and wrap it around the rolled-up fabric.  In my photos, the lining is underneath the shell, so I would be pulling the lining around to the top.  It looks like a hot mess, but it works. 


At this point, the right sides of the lining and shell are facing at the front and back armhole.  Stitch, grade the seam allowance, clip curves, and press.  Pull the dress through the shoulder seam.  It seems as if it won't work, but it will.  Repeat the whole process for the other side.


Construction:
 
I sewed all of the seams for the shell and lining on my machine and serged the edges together.  I used a blind hem for the shell and just serged the hem on the lining. 


Other:

Elastic Belt
I made an elastic belt to accompany the dress.  I like the look of gray and cheetah prints and didn't own a belt that looked like this.  I bought the elastic in 2011 from Pacific Trimmings in NYC.  In fact, I bought a bunch of elastic and buckles with the intention of making belts.  I'm still working on that...

Making the belt was super simple.  I cut the elastic to the length of a currently-owned belt.  To that, I attached a 1.5" by 3" piece of brown vinyl and stitched in place.  It was a little tricky working around the buckle, but I managed by sewing very slowly.




Zipper
This must be the year of wrinkles.  I fused interfacing and pressed with a lot of steam.  I can't seem to get rid of the puckers/wrinkles.  Maybe it won't look so bad when worn.  Right now, I am not a fan.


Back vent
Do you see that?!  I have no idea what's going on here.  I've sewn a back vent before and never had this happen.  I'll unpick the diagonal stitches and see if that helps.  Otherwise, I am stumped.


I don't have any photos of me wearing this version of the dress.  I might wear it to work tomorrow if I can figure out what's going on with the back vent.  Instead, here's a picture of the first version.  Both Mary and I are wearing this pattern.  

PR Weekend Montreal, June 2010

********
One UFO down, six more to go!

1.   Beignet
2.  Simplicity 2648
3.  Simplicity 1945
4.  Jalie 2559
5.  Vogue 8426
6.  Simplicity 2804
7.  BWOF 9-2009-134

Until next time, be well!

L

12 comments:

  1. 16 darts? That's crazy!
    The belt is really really cool. You've got me thinking, do I still have my vinyl or did I dump it in the last purge o' stash???

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I know, right! 16 darts in one garment is 14 darts too many! Thanks for the comment about the belt. I really like it and should make the others for which I bought supplies.

      Delete
  2. Wow,that was a great tutorial ! I love that dress and the belt. Yes,I've got to make a belt. Now see what you've started.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Lisa! LOL. I am innocent of almost all enabling. =)

      Delete
  3. Beautiful, this is a labor of love project. Thanks for the tutorial

    ReplyDelete
  4. Replies
    1. Thank you Gwen! It's really comfortable too.

      Delete
  5. Love it.... I really like the grey suiting fabric. It looks very business professional! Great job...Vita

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you! I want to make something to go over it so that I can wear it to work.

      Delete

Thanks for commenting! I appreciate and read them all - even if I can not personally respond.

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