Back Pockets (1 hour, 31 minutes)
Designing the back pockets of jeans is the most time consuming part of the process for me. I spend a lot of time scouring the internet for images that I think are cool and easy replicate. I've got some ideas about future pairs of jeans that may involve embroidery, hot-fix crystals, eyelets, and applique - not all at the same time! Here, I only counted the time it took to physically draw the design, transfer it to the pockets, and sew.
1. I made a copy of the back pattern piece and added seamlines (3/8").
I also cut out a piece of transfer paper in the same shape of the pocket. This made it easier for me to ensure everything was lined up properly.
2. Next, I free-handed a design onto the blank copy of the pocket and traced it with a serrated tracing wheel.
As you can see, I only traced one set of lines. I used the guide on my presser foot to stitch the other lines.
I didn't backstitch at the beginning or end of any line of sewing. I know...I know...the horror! I figure these edges are going to get turned under, pressed, and topstitched. I think the stitches are pretty safe. =)
4. Next I fold under 3/8" and press. I am very generous with steam here because I want everything to stay nice and flat. I also trimmed all of the loose threads. Pin the pocket to the back at the marked dots.
5. Whenever I topstitch, I use both a regular zigzag foot as well as a blindhem foot. The blindhem foot has a little flange on the bottom that can be used as a guide along the edge of the fabric. I sew the first line of topstitching with this foot and use the zigzag foot to sew the second line.
To keep from having to change the foot often, I sewed the first line of topstitching for both pockets, then sewed the second line using the other foot.
6. I rarely put anything in my back pockets, but I still like to have a bit of security at the corners since they are points of stress. To secure this area, I topstitch a little square through all layers.
7. Finally I press both pockets with lots of steam to set the stitches.
That's as far as I've gotten with the jeans. I still need to finish my Vogue skirt and whip up something for Faye's Top Sew Along. Y'all know Faye hosts the best sew alongs, right?!
prep - 33 minutes
back pockets - 91 minutes
Total time: 2 hours, 4 minutes
Until next time, peace!