This is my second version of this pattern and it turned out just how I envisioned. Initially, I was hesitant to use this fabric because I wasn't sure how I'd like how the fabric's print would respond to the bias front and back. I decided to go for it and am so glad that I did!
Fabric & Notions
- 1.5 yards of cotton-acrylic boucle'
- about 1.5 yards of French-Fuse fusible interfacing
- 1.5 yards of Bemberg Ambiance lining
- 7-inch invisible zipper
- 1.5-inch wide petersham cut to waist measurement plus a little extra
- 80/12 universal needle
- regular machine with walking foot
- serger threaded with off white serger thread
Having sewn this before, the skirt was already altered to fit my body. The only extra change I made was to shorten the upper part of the skirt 1". On the first version, I took this extra length from the bottom half but then I thought it made the skirt a bit unbalanced. Taking the extra length from the top seems to have corrected that minor problem.Prepping to Sew
Boucle is known to be shifty due to its loose weave. Knowing this coming into this project, I did a bit of research online and decided to block-fuse the fabric first before cutting it out. For the most part, this was pretty easy. I had somewhat of a hard time keeping the fabric from shifting too much while fusing. You can see a bit of a wave in the fabric, though it's not apparent in the garment.
Based on a suggestion I read...um...somewhere, I used French Fuse fusible interfacing. It has a slight crosswise stretch and is light to medium in weight. I was concerned that the interfacing would change the hand of the fabric too much. After testing nit on a small piece of fabric, I was satisfied with the result. The fabric is definitely not nearly as fluid without the interfacing, but it still maintains some degree of drape.
|fabric completely block-fused|
I used 1/2" seam allowances on the side seams and waist and a 3/8" seam to join the upper and lower halves.I sewed this the same way I did the first version. The side seams were finished first and then pressed open. The seam that joins the upper and lower halves was serged together and then pressed up. I omitted the waistband and lined the skirt (faced with petersham) using a technique that I've mentioned a few times before, so I won't repeat it again. Visit this post for a complete picture tutorial.
The hems of both the shell and lining were finished using a rolled hem. It was much simpler to do it this way than fussing with a wide circular hem that's cut on the bias.
I can't say enough good things about this pattern. There are only three pieces and it sews up very quickly. I love how the upper half skims the hips while the lower bias half creates a flirty flare. I don't have any immediate plans to sew this again, but I do highly recommend it.
Up next: I hope to snap some photos of me wearing the entire outfit on Monday and post the review for the jacket shortly thereafter. Until next time, peace all!