22 August 2013

Indygo Junction 740: Altering the Upper Collar

In my last post, I commented on number of mistakes that exist.  While inconvenient, the mistakes are minor and easy to fix.  Having a collar that in NO WAY fits the neckline is a problem.  Big problem.

This is not a traditional notched collar as the line drawing appears to suggest.  PR member Nancy2001 explained that the collar on this coat doesn't have a gorge line that is sewn to meet the lapel.  When I compared the collar and center front pieces of this pattern to that of the Jalie 2559 and Kwik Sew 3558 patterns, it totally makes sense.  In the Jalie and Kwik Sew patterns, there are clear stop & start points marked so that this gorge line is sewn correctly.  Now it could be that these markings are missing from the pattern and this really is a traditional notched collar.  I don't know.  

I decided to view this as a non-tradtional notched collar and forget about the gorge line.  Doing so didn't fix the fact that the neckline seam is too long by THREE full inches.  o_O  

In this photo, you can see that the neckline seam extends almost to the edge of the lapel.  I could have continued sewing, but stopped because I thought I was supposed to.  Unreal.  I didn't know the best way to fix this problem, so I tried a few things.

Fix #1: Lop off 3 inches from CB seam
This didn't work because I neglected the fact that the upper collar is cut on the fold.  Removing  three inches actually results in six inches total removed.    
Result:  Collar neckline seam is way too small.

Fix#2:  Lop off 1.25 inches from CB seam
This was close, but not quite correct.  I could ease the neckline to fit the collar, but why do that when I could take out more width?
Result:  Collar neckline seam is still too big.

Fix #3:  Lop off 1.5 inches from CB seam
Perfect...almost.  Taking off 1.5 inches from the CB seam was the right fix.  The shoulder notches finally matched and the seam length was correct.  However, there is a new problem:  the outer edge is now too short.  Removing 1.5 inches (3 inches total) from the neckline also resulted in the same loss on the outer edge.  This caused the collar to not sit properly on the neck.
Result:  Collar neckline seam is the correct length, but the outer edge is too short.

The picture below shows the original collar (beige) and the three fixes mentioned above.

Fix #4:  Lop off 1.5 inches from collar neckline, tapering to nothing at outer edge
At first I thought about taking the whole 1.5-inch wedge all at once.  I figured this would substantially throw off the grain and make the collar all kinds of wonky - thus requiring a fifth fix.  Instead, I shortened the collar neckline in the same way I would contour a straight waistband.  I removed three 0.5-inch wedges spaced one inch apart.
  1. Starting one inch from the CB seam, I marked three vertical lines, spacing each line one inch apart.
  2. On each side of the vertical line, I measured and marked 0.25 inches. 
  3. I constructed a dart by drawing diagonal line segments from each mark to the outer edge of the collar, matching the end of the vertical line.
  4. Finally, I made a fold on each vertical line, matching each dart leg.
Here is a picture of the adjusted pattern piece:

Here are pictures of the adjusted collar on the coat:

Result:  Collar neckline seam is the correct length and the outer edge of the collar sits properly on the coat.

While the pattern doesn't include a separate under collar piece, the instructions do suggest trimming the side and long edges 1/8" to help turn-of-cloth. (This article in Threads discusses turn-of-cloth very well.)  Rather than use the same piece, I copied the upper collar pattern piece, drew in the bias grainline, added a 5/8" CB seam.  Then I removed 1/8" from the outer and side edges. 

I cut out the shell pieces and have started to assemble the coat.  I might change the name of this coat to the T-n-A coat for reasons that will become all too obvious when you see pictures.  I'll give you a hint:  Big colorful circles tragically strategically placed in all the wrong (or right) places.  I couldn't have planned this more perfectly even if I tried.

Up next:  Lining Pieces

Until next time, peace!


1 comment:

  1. Are you going to contact Indygo Junction with your results??? Good save!


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