25 August 2013

Indygo Junction 740: Lining Pieces

The pattern doesn't include a lining, but I want to add so that the coat goes over my clothes smoothly.  I'm still trying to decide if I want to use the Kasha flannel-backed satin lining or something else.  My fabric is not only thick, but heavy and adding the Kasha lining will make it even heavier.

In the meantime, I decided to follow the instructions on Tilly's blog (Tilly and the Buttons) to make the lining pieces.  Tasia from Sewaholic wrote a tutorial on how to turn regular pattern pieces into lining pieces.  For skirts, I normally just cut out the same pieces in lining fabric and proceed.  But for jackets/coats, Tasia suggests small adjustments to make the lining fit more properly within the garment.  She explains how to do this in great detail here:  Sewaholic tutorial:  Drafting a jacket lining.  Here are the adjustments I made to each piece.

Side Front:  I added 1/4" up and 5/8" out from the armhole point, tapering to nothing away from the point.

Front:  Since my pattern has shoulder princess seams, to follow Tasia's tutorial I pinned the side front and center front together at the seam allowance.

Then I placed the facing piece on top of the front coat piece and proceeded with the instructions.  I used the grainline on the side front to establish one of the front lining piece.
side front and front lining pattern pieces
Side Back:  I added 1/4" up and 5/8" out from the armhole point, tapering to nothing away from the point.

Back:  After correcting the back facing (discussed in a previous post), I traced the facing on the back and added two seam allowances as suggested by Tasia.  I also added a 5/8" seam allowance along the center back and a 1" ease pleat. 

Sleeve:  The additions here are the same as on the side front and side back.  Add 1/4" up and 5/8" out from the armhole point. 

Lower and Sleeve Bands:  The only thing I did was remove a hem allowance of 1.25" from the bottom.

I've begun assembly and will post in-progress shots and a quick update soon.  Initially, I was going to hand-tailor the coat with hair canvas, padstitching, etc.  But I decided to save all of that work for two other coats that I want to make before December/January. 

Previous posts on this project:



  1. Thanks for sharing your alterations and links.

  2. L, That was a neat tutorial by Tasia, on how to make your lining pattern. Thanks for sharing.

    Great progress on the coat! And what? Two more coats before winter! Girl, you are on a roll. Tell me what do you eat for breakfast?

    1. No problem. =) I see two more coats in my mind. Reality is another thing. =)

  3. I had completely forgotten about Tasia's tut on lining so I'm grateful for the reminder as I'm about to make a jacket for my daughter that doesn't include one. Your coat is coming along nicely and thank for all your details in the process.

    1. You're welcome. It's a great tutorial; I don't even remember how I found it.

  4. From my observation, the more you labor over a project the more precious the finished product. Your coat is going to be lovely and you are going to love it!

    1. Thanks Faye. I hope it turns out okay. I have some concerns about the lining and ultra thickness at the neckline. There are going to be about 5-6 layers of super thick fabric at the neckline. I might hand-sew this area.


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