Based on my full bust measurement, I started with an XL. I didn't use the HB measurement because I wanted to have extra room to wear over fall/early winter clothes. I lowered the bust fullness 1" and added 5/8" in width at the bust line. The muslin felt a little snug and since my fabric is thick, I figured I needed the extra room. If I need any more room, I think taking smaller seam allowances will be enough.
Since I started with an XL, the shoulder seam is too long. I will take larger seam allowances on the front and back princess seams, tapering back to 5/8 above the bust.
Since my fabric has a pretty sizable print, I decided not to add a center back seam to do the sway back adjustment. Instead, I took out 3/4" of length from the center back and added this amount to the bottom. This shortens the back-waist length to match mine but keeps the side back seam length the same.
The bicep area of the sleeves was a little restrictive. I added a 5/8" fish-eye wedge; hopefully this will be enough. Again if I need the extra room, I can take smaller seam allowances.
Up next: Creating the Lining Pieces
Until next time, peace!