15 September 2013

Indygo Junction 740 (coat): Complete

Finally the coat is done!  Except for a couple of snaps.  And belt loops.  And good press.  

I FREAKIN' LOVE THIS COAT!  I thought I wouldn't get a chance to wear it until October.  But because Michigan weather is wrong on so many levels, I can actually wear it now.  


Let me tell you about this weather.  Wednesday, the high was 95F.  Friday night, there were frost and freeze warnings.  The high was 66F today.  Do you see what I'm talking about?  Wrong.  Just wrong.  Excuse me, Michigan, can we ease into this freeze?  My body doesn't appreciate being shocked like that.  Humid and 95 to breezy and cold is a bit much.  Thanks.

Okay.  Back to the coat.

Fabric & Notions:
  • 2 yards of upholstery fabric (main body)
  • 1 yard of upholstery fabric (sleeve and lower bands)
  • 2 yards of Kasha flannel-backed satin lining
  • 1.5 packages of Wright's piping
  • fusible interfacing for the front, side front, collar, and all hems
  • small piece of pre-washed muslin for back stay
  • 2 11" x 3 " bias-cut polar fleece for sleeve heads
  • 90/14 universal needle
  • large and medium-sized snaps
  • single belt buckle 
Machine Setup:
  • regular machine with walking foot
  • serger with medium-brown thread
Alterations, Pattern Changes, & Lining:

I wrote a series of posts about the changes I made to this pattern.  For more info, please visit these links:

Construction Highlights:

Light Tailoring


I was going to go all out and do padstitching, hair canvas - the whole nine.  But since I have at least one more coat on my radar before the year ends, I scratched that idea and took the easy route.  I fused interfacing to the entire front and side front panels, cut the under collar on the bias and fused interfacing to it, inserted a back stay, and added sleeve heads for cap support.  


 

I cannot stress enough how nice it is to use sleeve heads to help set in a sleeve.  My fabric was thick and I don't think using the two rows of ease stitches would have been enough to set the sleeve in nicely.  I have ZERO puckers on my sleeves and got them both in on the first try.  If you haven't used sleeve heads on your jackets or coats, do it!!  Now!  =)



Order of Construction

The instructions have you construct the bodice and bands separately, then attach the bands to the bottom of the coat.  Instead, I added the bands to each panel (side front, front, side back, and back) so that I could fit the vertical and side seams as I sewed.  This way just makes more sense to me.

The fabric raveled A LOT so I finished the edges first before sewing them together.  I used my wooden clapper to help get nice flat seams and to reduce bulk.  The seams on the lining were serged together and pressed to one side.

Lining


I decided not to bag the lining and let it hang loose.  I wanted to be able to get access to the inside in case I need to adjust further for fit or repair some future weak spot.  Like I said, the fabric raveled something awful and even though I serged, I'm not sure how it's going to hold up after lots of wear.  After making the lining pieces and all of the other changes, I intend to wear the hell out of this coat.


Since my lining isn't bagged, I wasn't sure how to finish the area where the piping ends.  So I cut out some of the cord from the end, tucked the end piece under and stitched it in place.  I make a note to think about this more the next time (oh yeah, there will be a next time).

Conclusion:

Though this coat took a lot of work, I am SOOOOO glad that I pushed through and finished.  There were times that I felt like sending this project to Area 51 - the real one.  I had already had the fabric and pattern for at least six years and waiting another year would have been nothing.  The simple truth is that I was afraid of ruining the fabric.  When I thought about it, I realized that this fabric I like so much is just going to continue gathering dust and not ever be enjoyed UNLESS I do something with it.  So, I got over my fear and just cut.  It was the right decision.  =)


I want to take a moment to thank everyone who showed some love and support through the making of this coat.  I am very grateful to be among a group of goodhearted folks like you. 

Up next:  I wanted  to try making a woven button-front blouse for BeaJay's Scary September Challenge.  But, I think I will sew something that doesn't take much thought right now.  I'd like to make a few pieces from my Fall 6PAC plan that I have yet to blog about.  Most of the patterns are TNTs so these shouldn't be to hard to sew.


Until next time, peace!

50 comments:

  1. Let me reiterate what you already know, that coat is freaking marvelous. You look so dandy in it too. I know you felt cute while wearing it! I know ALL the work that goes inside a coat, it is so time consuming. Contrats on a great look!

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    1. Thank you Faye! Yes it was time consuming, but as you said, the work paid off!

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  2. This is absolutely stunning! All of your hard work shows and you did a fantastic job...you should be very proud of your efforts!

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    1. Thank you Carolyn! I am all smiles about my coat. You see the big cheesy grin, right? =)

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  3. I freakin' love your coat too!!! What a great job you did with it. Not sure if I would've had that patience. And I definitely could never live in Michigan ... LOL

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    1. Thanks Debbie! As much as I complain about the weather, I couldn't live in Florida for a few reasons, one of the biggest: Palmetto bugs. Ewwwwwwwwwwwww!

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  4. I hit Publish too soon ... I also wanted to say that this looks so very high-end and EXPENSIVE!! I bet you will have strangers stopping you on the street to comment on it. The fabrics/prints are TO DIE FOR!

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    1. Thank you again. =) I am really happy with it and hope to get LOTS of wear out of it. I will wear it until the circles rub off!

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  5. WOW! That's AMAZING coat!! Fantastic job, L!

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  6. Your coat is AH-MAY-ZING! All of your patient and hard work paid off. It looks like a coat from an uber high-end boutique. You'll get lots of wear and compliments out of it. TFS

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  7. I have not read your post yet but I just had to say that looks freaking FABULOUS!!!!!!!

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    1. Thanks Farhana. It's quite toasty too. =)

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  8. Gorgeous coat! Your perseverance paid off. I'm glad you were brave and went ahead with making it despite your fears. This is the kind of example I need:)

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    1. Merci! Indeed I am happy with the finished product. I'm glad you got something out of this project too!

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  9. Lynn - what a wonderful unique couture coat you have now. It is absolutely gorgeous and you have the right to be proud. Well done.

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    1. Thank you BeaJay! Even though I have yet to start my Scary September garment, I did push through the fear of ruining my lining. That counts, right? =)

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  10. Your coat is fabulous. All your hard work with fit alterations, motif placement, and careful execution resulted in a coat that fits you perfectly and is very chic.

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    1. Thanks Becca! I was worried about the circles on the front giving me the dreaded honker syndrome. I think they're high enough to not be too obvious. At least, I hope they are!

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  11. That is one awesome make. The fabric is gorgeous....

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  12. I'm glad everything turned out nicely at the end, and the coat story has a happy ending :). It looks wonderful, and you are going to feel like a million dollars every day you wear it - and you deserve it. It's beautifully finished, and the lining decision was the right one to make - it looks stunning inside as well - always a mood plus.

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    1. The lining is my favorite. I am sure I would have hated that nasty polyester. Thanks SarahLiz.

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  13. PS- the circles are above the crucial point(s), and with a central circle at your waistline, a great line is created

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    1. Ah, great point. I focused so much on the circles being near my bust that I didn't think of how they created a line. Thanks for pointing that out!

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  14. Wow, this is amazing - all that hard work certainly paid off. And when you wear it you'll probably wonder why you didn't do it years ago!

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    1. I do wonder why I didn't do it years ago! I brushed the dust off of that fabric SO many times. I really should not have let it set so long!

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  15. What a beautiful coat. Extremely well made, I love the colour and fabric combinations - everything about it is just stunning. Hope you will enjoy wearing it for a very long time :)

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    1. Thank you! I hope to wear the circles until they're bald. =)

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  16. This is my first time commenting on your blog....That coat is awesome. Love the print on the upholstery fabric. Looks wonderful with your jeans.

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    1. Thank you for stopping by and commenting! I will give upholstery fabric a second look now. =)

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  17. NICE and I L*VE your angel on the wall!!! I had over 400 but have down given many away to new homes :)

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    1. Thank you! The angel is a piece of upholstery fabric that I picked up from my first visit to the American Sewing Expo. This vendor had a whole bunch of scrap pieces and when I saw this one, I grabbed it. I have a few more angels in my sewing room. They keep me company. =)

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  18. This jacket is SUPER CUTE! I love everything about it. Thanks for all the details on how you put it together. There are a few coats I have seen that I wanted to make, but I realize now in order to do it "right" it's going to take a few more steps than I realized. So I may just be doing one coat! LOL

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    1. Thanks Zeva! Making a coat is a lot of work, but it's so worth it. In comparison to Lady Grey, this coat took a bit less time since I skipped all of the hand sewing. You can certainly do it!

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  19. This coat is freakin fabulous! I think you've managed to capture some of your personality with this project. I love it!

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    1. Thank you T! I do think the coat is very me. =)

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  20. I'm a new follower of your blog and I think that your coat is amazing. You look great in it and the fabric is just marvelous! I bet you are praying for more cold weather. Pugs and kisses, Nancy at PugMom Quilts!

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    1. Pugs and kisses. I love it! Thank you for commenting. As much as I dislike cold weather, I am just a wee bit anxious for a chance to wear it!

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  21. Michigan has had the most ridiculous weather all year long, hasn't it???

    I love the coat!

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    1. I'm sayin'! I don't even know what to expect anymore. I pulled out my lightweight comforter last week only to kick it to the end of the bed this week. I am SO confused. I refuse to turn on the heat, though. That has to AT LEAST wait until mid-October!

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  22. It looks so good and you look so happy! I love that lining--it is luscious!

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    1. Thanks Kyle! I love the lining too. I'll definitely bring it to the ASE.

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  23. You did an awesome job..... love it.

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  24. This is a gorgeous coat! I would love to have your permission to include a photo of this coat in a magazine article I am writing. I can't find your contact info, so I'd appreciate it if you would email me. Thanks!

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Thanks for commenting! I appreciate and read them all - even if I can not personally respond.

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