13 December 2013

KS 3764 (Moto Jacket): Complete

I sewed like mad on Sunday and finished the jacket.  


I haven't worn it yet because the lower edge is uneven and I don't know how to fix it.  I've removed the stitches twice, clipped carefully, and pressed the hell out of this area.  It's still wonky and it annoys me.  Also, I don't know why the lower right edge is longer than the left edge.  I've seen this on other motorcycle jackets, so maybe this is how it's supposed to be.  I doubt that.


Fabric  & Notions
  • 2 yards medium grey cotton denim
  • scraps of grey lining for pockets and sleeve facings
  • grey polyester sewing and topstitching thread
  • fusible interfacing for upper collar and facings
  • walking foot
  • 90/14 universal needle for regular sewing and 100/16 denim needle for topstitching

Fitting & Alterations

I started with a size medium based on the last Kwik Sew jacket I made.  I didn't make a muslin, but I should have.  Since I got such a good fit with Kwik Sew 3558, I thought I could just lay the pattern pieces for that jacket on top of the pattern pieces for the moto jacket.  Wrong.  The bust area is tight and the back is too long and too wide.  I started to cut out the shorter version of this pattern but decided against it because I thought it would be too short.  I was wrong.  Boxy jackets are not suitable for my figure and if I decide to wear one, it needs to be short and end at just below my waist.  This jacket hits at my full hip and it's not flattering.


I suppose I could just lop off three inches and add the band anyway.  No wait, I can't do that either.  The jacket has a separating zipper and I'd have to find a way to keep from pulling the tab off.  Well, I guess I have my answer!

Judging by the side and back views, you can see that I need an FBA and some narrowing of the back.



Construction

Zippers
Opting for aluminum teeth was the right thing to do.  They match and compliment the jacket color perfectly.  I wish I had taken more time to practice installing the zippers, though.  The openings are not as neat as they could/should be - despite picking them apart a few times.

Collar
Against my better judgment, I cut the under collar as instructed:  on the fold and in the same size as the upper collar.  I KNEW this was a mistake and it shows.  The under collar should be cut on the bias and 1/8" smaller on the long and side edges.  This helps to encourage turn of cloth.  Yeah.  I didn't do any of that and my cloth doth not turn.  I pressed and rolled until my fingers were scorched.  No deal.  Next time I will do what I know to be right and save my fingertips.

Sleeves
As per the instructions, I sewed the sleeves in flat.  The sleeve is drafted with little ease in this area and sewing them in flat posed no problems.

Epaulettes


I'd like to add the epaulettes, but I can't find the rest of the pieces for the snaps.  They're somewhere in this house - hiding out.  The only thing I don't like about this is that the epaulettes are attached after the collar is sewn.  You're supposed to topstitch them to the shoulder seam.  Hmm.  Looks kind of tacky.  Had I carefully read through the instructions beforehand, I would have noticed this and attached the epaulettes before adding the collar.  I suppose it's not big deal since the collar covers the attachment area.  But still...

Zipper Facing on Sleeves & Gusset
The pattern piece for the zipper facing is way too narrow.  After sewing the facing right sides together, you're supposed to turn it to the inside and press.  After the zipper is installed, then you need to sew the gusset to the edges of the facing.  There is hardly any room to do this neatly.  In the future, I suggest making the sleeve facing at least twice as wide so that when it's time to attach the gusset, you actually have something to sew on!

Topstitching
The pattern instructs you to topstitch around the edges of the front and collar.  I tried to do this, but my machine was having FITS with topstitching thread in the bobbin.  Normally I use regular thread in the bobbin, but since I'm topstitching all around, the bobbin thread would eventually end up on top once I fold back the collar.  Meh.  I'll figure something out.   

Conclusion
In all, I like the jacket and will certainly wear it.  I'll make another motorcycle jacket, but probably not from this pattern.  I need something which much more shaping, like Style Arc's Ziggi jacket or one from BWOF. 

Many thanks to Kyle for helping me secure the zippers.  They truly make jacket sing!

Up next:  I have no idea.  I'm in limbo on what to sew next. 

Until next time, peace!

L

16 comments:

  1. It's gorgeous L!

    I know that bottom edge might be bothering you but really, it doesn't detract from the final product at all. The color is phenomenal!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you! I love the color and had this fabric for a few years. I'm glad I finally sewed it up.

      Delete
  2. Wear that jacket. No one is going to notice that minor imperfection. And if they do they need a life....

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Words of wisdom! I won't sweat the small stuff.

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  3. You should get a lot of wear from this jacket and it's a wonderful wardrobe piece.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Dorothy. I wore it on Tuesday and felt very comfortable in it.

      Delete
  4. L, I often agonise about a little something like a slightly uneven hem. Then I won't wear the garment> Then I look at clothes in shops. I notice the imperfections. Then I wear the garment :). Honestly, it's not that bad, and when you are moving, no-one will notice. And who is to say that it is not supposed to be like that??? Sounds weird topstitching on the wrong side so the bobbin thread shows. I would stop topstitching, and then turn the garment and do the collar section separately. I think the jacket looks great, and please do wear it - if it is not too tight. All the motos look fairly boxy, and even if it is not the best look, you know that, and you can wear it while it is on trend ...after all that work....

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    Replies
    1. I don't know what's going on with the bobbin. I topstitched a dress with thicker thread in the bobbin with no problem. This time, however, the stitches were wavy and uneven.

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  5. Oh no! You don't like it... I hate it when that happens. I think the lower edges not matching looks intentional. As for not liking the fit, hmmmm....maybe it needs some time in the Magic Closet?

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    Replies
    1. I like the jacket, but the fit can definitely be improved. I wore it on Monday so it's definitely in the regular rotation. =)

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  6. Beautiful job. Like others the hemline issue is minor. .. rock that jacket girl.

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  7. Jacket looks great! Can't imagine anyone noticing the uneven zipper - especially with the assymetrical look.

    The fabric looks identicle to what I used to make my first Burda pattern decades ago. I carefuly cut out all 20+ pieces of the jacket - before even looking at the instructions. No Seam Allowances! Needless to say- had to make a return trip to the fabric store.

    Great coat - wear it with pride!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you! You're right, I'm not going to worry about the small stuff.

      I like the Burda magazine patterns, though it is a chore to add the seam allowances. I've ruined a few garments by forgetting to do that! How do you add your SAs? I add mine right on the fabric.

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  8. I have been so excited to see your finished jacket, and it was definitely worth the wait. It looks incredible. So sorry you are not thrilled with it. I am sure you will look stunning in that color. Bummer that it falls in the wrong spot with a separating zipper, but you will probably be the only person to notice. I would really love to see a picture of you modeling your work.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Ann aChristina! I will definitely make this jacket (or a similar one) again.

      I hope to take a picture wearing it soon. I didn't get to snap one on Tuesday. By the time I came home from work, all I wanted to do was sleep!

      Delete

Thanks for commenting! I appreciate and read them all - even if I can not personally respond.

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