09 February 2014

Feedback & Funky Bells Update

First some feedback...

Thank you for the comments on my jacket.  I like it and can definitely see more versions in my regular rotation.  I hope to snap a picture of me wearing it once I finish the funky bells.

Faye asked:  "What type of fusible interfacing did you use?"

I used a medium-weight fusible that I found at Haberman Fabrics years ago.  I bought all they had since they said they would no longer be able to order it.  I use it for special projects like this because of its weight and stability. 


Sarah Liz asked:  "What sort of lining do you use?"

I use Bemberg Ambiance 100% rayon lining for almost all of my lined garments.  The lining washes, dries, and presses well.  It's shifty and, at times, can be a pain to handle.  Aside from silk or Kasha flannel-backed cotton/acetate lining, I wouldn't line with anything else.

Up next, the funky bells update...

Sooooooo...I basted the seams together and tried on the jeans.  What did I learn?  I could fit two people in these bad boys.

Holy big jeans.  These things are ginormous.  I started with the same size (44) as the last pair because I thought I needed the extra room since my denim has no stretch.  When I compared the pattern pieces to Jalie 2908, I thought they looked rather big.  But I forged on anyway because the Jalie jeans are made for stretch denim.

I was wrong.  I'm so glad I didn't do any topstitching.  I would have been in a sour mood if I had to undo all of that.  I picked everything apart and started over.  I sewed at 3/4" along the front and back vertical seams.  For the side and inseams, I trimmed off 1/4" and then sewed at 5/8".  This amounts to a total reduction of 3 inches!  The fit is much better now, though I could have taken off a bit more across the front.
I'll also need to do something about that mile-long front crotch.  
Do you see that??  This can't be normal.  I don't remember the front crotch being this long on the skinny jeans or else I would have altered the pattern before cutting my fabric.  Maybe I've been wearing low-rise jeans for so long that I've forgotten what regular-rise looks like.  I don't know.  What I do know is that I am definitely lopping that shit off.  

For comparison, here is a copy of the zipper area for Jalie 2908:

Yeah, man.  That foolishness has to go.  I think taking off an inch will do; that will leave enough for a seam allowance.  I was concerned that shorting the length at the waist might throw off the waistband.  But I've already done that by taking those bigger seam allowances.  Meh.  I'll make it work somehow.

As for the overall length of the jeans, yeah I'm short.  Whatareyagonnado?  I'll probably have to lop off an inch or two before I sew the hem.


This is a picture of one of the godets topstitched.  The jeans have four godets on each leg:  front, back, and both sides.  I want to topstitch all seams, but doing so will involve topstitching one seam in a tube.  I've tried that before - it's not fun.  I'm going to practice doing it while I have the pants basted.  If I can't get it to work, then I'll have to figure out something else.  Kadiddlehopper was able to topstitch all eight vertical seams successfully.  She suggests topstitching the inseams last so that any wonkiness is  hidden.  We'll see how that goes.

That's all for now.  Until next time, peace everyone!

L

7 comments:

  1. Okay so too big can be a good thing as long as it's BEFORE topstitching of course! You got this whole "jeans" thing going on and down pat. When I get there?...you'll have questions from me in your inbox. Nice work L! Very nice (and impressive) work!

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  2. I am SO glad you hadn't topstitched first! That would have been a sad, sad tale.

    As usual, you rock! These are going to be fabulous!!

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  3. Wow - your jeans look great! Such straight top stitching - impressive!!

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  4. At least with too big you can take in. Too small and you are in real trouble and need really creative solutions :)

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  5. They look great! One day it'll be my turn at jeans.

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