05 February 2014

Jalie 2559 (jacket): Complete

Welkom aan boord vlucht 2559.   The KLM jacket is finished!  I think the buttons are a little high, though, so I might redo them.


I don't have any pictures of me wearing the jacket, so dress form photos will have to due for now.  Here's the review:

Fabric & Notions
  • 2 yards of medium-weight wool suiting (from the stash)
  • 2 yards of navy Bemberg rayon lining
  • fusible interfacing for the front, front facings, and all hems
  •  11" x 3" strips of bias-cut fleece for sleeve heads
  • 80/12 universal needle for shell
  • 70/10 microtex needle for lining
  • pre-washed muslin for back stay
  • covered buttons kit
  • regular sewing machine, serger, and walking foot 
  • 2 metal snaps

Sizing & Adjustments
Having sewn this before, I worked out the fit already.  I traced a size Z according to my full bust measurement.  I narrowed the shoulders by taking a larger seam allowance in this area, tapering back to 5/8" in the upper chest.  I did a 5/8" sway back adjustment and shortened the sleeves 1.5".  I also took slightly bigger seam allowances across the upper back because I thought the jacket was baggy in this area.  Judging by how it looks on me, I could stand to take a bigger seam allowance or cut a smaller size. 

Even though the undercollar is cut on the fold and with a CB seam, it's the same size as the upper collar.  To encourage turn of cloth, I trimmed 1/8" from the side and long edges.

When I made this jacket for the second time last year, I wrote a list of changes to make for the third iteration:
  • No interfacing in the seams:  Not having interfacing in the seam allowances reduced a lot of bulk in places that didn't need it.  Since I intend to make this jacket a few more times, I made separate interfacing pieces that don't include seam allowances. 
  • Flannel or fleece for sleeve heads:  Fleece is my friend for sleeve heads.  Cotton batting is nice, but even on the bias it has NO stretch. 
  • No polyester lining:  I'm a lining snob.  No shame in my game.
  • Finish edges and press seams open:  Done and done.

Construction
Nothing special here.  I sewed everything on my machine after finishing the edges first.  The lining seams were sewn first, then serged together.  

The covered buttons are for decoration only.  I chickened out of doing proper buttonholes and used snaps instead.

Pictures

jump pleat
lining
undercollar/turn of cloth
This is photo shows the color better than the others.


 left:  zebra print cotton stretch sateen
right:  black and white wool tweed

The type of bottom can take this from nice suit to hubba - not hubba hubba...it is a blazer after all.  

I don't know why the right side is pulling at the bottom.  It doesn't do that on me. 

Conclusion
The only thing I don't care for on this version is the topstitching around the edge of the front.  Since there is no topstitching anywhere else on the jacket, it seems out of place here.  It doesn't stand out too much, but should I sew this again I won't topstitch around the edge.

I'll certainly make this again pattern again - maybe with welt pockets.  The draft is very well done and everything matches precisely. 

Up next:  I'm still working on the Burda bells.  I'm going to sew them to the point where I can try them on; I have some concerns about the fit and length.

I took this picture on 6 Jan.  It's 5 Feb and after the last few snow storms, the deck looks the same.  The snow isn't going anywhere anytime soon since the temperature is forecast to be in the single digits for the next week.

Until next time, peace and warmth!

L

25 comments:

  1. It looks beautiful! Very pretty color and impeccably sewn!

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  2. I love the color and it looks very neat!

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  3. Yay! It's gorgeous!! Love the color. Love it :)

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  4. Your jacket is gorgeous. You did a wonderful job. What type of fusible interfacing did you use. I just trimmed interfacing from the seam allowance of my coat too. Not having it there makes a really big difference.

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    1. Thanks Faye! I used an interfacing that I purchased from Haberman Fabrics a few years ago. I took all of what they had since I was told they wouldn't be able to order it any longer. It's dark grey, medium weight, and has visible vertical lines on the non-fusible side. It is the best interfacing I've ever used. I'll snap a picture and put it in my next post.

      I agree: not having interfacing in the seam allowance definitely makes a big difference.

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  5. Beautiful - great colour too. Looks fab with both skirts.

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    Replies
    1. Thanks BeaJay! I'm really digging the color too.

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  6. Awesome, and the blue is so pretty. I need a nice blue jacket. Hmmmm off to the sewing table. LOL

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    1. Thanks Melanie! I picked up this fabric on a whim at a charity fabric sale. I thought, eh, why not? I don't have anything else this vibrant in my closet. I'm so glad I got it!

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  7. looks great! & I love the color!
    Helen

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  8. Looks like you have just the weather for staying indoors and sewing. I bet you can't wait until the weather is warm enough to wear this jacket - it looks lovely. What sort of lining do you use? It looks like an acetate of some sort, which is nicer than poly plastic. I think that when you wear the jacket it would lift and then the bottom would sit correctly. Armani is pairing this colour blue with some of his outfits this summer.

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    Replies
    1. Giorgio and I talked about it briefly. I told him to go ahead and include this color in his summer palette. He was hesitant at first, but he came around.

      A girl can dream, right? =)

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  9. Vlucht 2559 is goed geland! (Flight 2559 has landed well.)

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  10. I love your jacket. I didn't know that Jalie had a blazer pattern - guess what is next on my pattern list? ANd I hear you about the snow. I wish this winter would end. The cold, the ice, the snow, the dark...just go away winter.

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    1. I think it's out of print now. =( I don't remember when I bought it or when it first came out. Try to contact Jalie directly to see if they have any extra copies or a digital version. It really is a great pattern and it's drafted very well.

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    2. Old man winter must be taking his vitamins or something because he is not letting up this year!

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  11. Love the tip on fleece in the sleeve head. Your jacket is really beautiful! I am hoping you will soon be able to wear it without a heavy overcoat. My deck is hard to find under all this snow. I am afraid we will need a boat to get around when it all melts.

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    1. Thanks Anna Christina! I still had my heat on in May last year and winter wasn't even that bad. I may not get to wear the jacket until October. =)

      Oh man. I don't even want to think about the big thaw. All of this water has to go somewhere. Let's just hope the ground is thirsty enough to take it all!

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  12. That's HOT L! I need one of these in my life, same color, same style, same, same, same!!! Nice work and such a versatile piece that I'm sure you will get max use out of!

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Thanks for commenting! I appreciate and read them all - even if I can not personally respond.

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