31 March 2014

McCall's 5525 (trench coat): Progress

After finally catching a break from busy times at work, I got a chance to sew this weekend.  My trench coat is coming along slowly, but surely.

Remember these pictures?
Yeah, I didn't use any of this.  Hah.  I was looking forward to working some silk magic but ended up ditching that idea in the end.  I still plan to make the navy blue trench coat, but for fall instead of now.  The red stretch cotton sateen was a world of swears waiting to happen, so back to the stash it goes.

I went traditional with a sandy-colored cotton twill with a hint of sheen on the right side.  Despite the dull color, this was the right choice of fabric.  It's not too heavy and presses nicely.
I'm sort of half-following the instructions.  I completed the back first and fiddled around with the front - filling in blanks as I needed.  For example, I made the button hole in the back yoke before attaching it to the back.  Why in the world would you want to work a buttonhole after the whole coat is constructed?  In fact, the instructions save all of the buttonholes until the end.  O_o  Who thought this was a good idea? #FailWaitingToHappen
I'm not feeling the gun flap.  I hadn't pressed it yet in this picture, but have since then.  I'll give it another day on the dress form before deciding to keep or ditch it.  I don't know why it's puckering like this.  Maybe I needed to adjust the flap for the FBA.
I included a back stay out of pre-washed muslin.  I do this on (almost) all jackets and coats.
The jacket and sleeve hems are interfaced as well.  For some reason I thought the hem was 5/8" so I cut strips just slightly larger than that.  Then I read (somewhere) that the hems are 1 5/8".  Oops. 

Here's where the coat stands.  I have to refit the sides and decide on the gun flap before I can go on to the epaulettes.  In the meantime, I tried out button ideas and I think the dark brown buttons make the jacket look timeless.  Problem is:  I only have ten buttons and I need eleven.  I bought the buttons over a year ago and can't find them anymore.  Waaaah. 

That's all for now.  Until next time, peace!



  1. This is coming along well, and I love your final fabric/colour choice ~ definitely the way to go. Can't wait to see it finished ... soon ... J

    1. Thanks Judith. I am very happy with this fabric color and choice. The navy fabric will work nicely as well, but I think it's better for fall.

  2. I love that neither of the initial fabrics made the cut. Gotta follow your gut.

    It is progressing so well. I love the gun flap and am curious to see what you decide. On the buttons...wahhhh. That stinks. :-(

    1. Yup! I like the gun flap too, but the pucker is not flattering. I pressed this area over a ham yesterday and let it rest. I'll sew the side and shoulder seams again and try it on. If it still puckers, I'm ditching the flap.

  3. Great progress, and I wish I could justify making a trenchcoat. It looks wonderful so far. I like the colors, and your button choice. Are you sure you really need 11?

    1. Thanks Mary!

      Yes, I need at least eleven: six on the front, two for each sleeve, two for each epaulette, and one for the back yoke. If I can find a very close match, I'll use it on the back yoke.

  4. So far so good. I agree that that dark button look better. I wanted to add the back yoke and gun flap to mine but didn't have enough fabric. We're gonna be needing these soon so we've got to get finished!

  5. Great color choice and I like the gun flap. You are so inspiring me to start on my jacket.


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