31 March 2014

McCall's 5525 (trench coat): Progress

After finally catching a break from busy times at work, I got a chance to sew this weekend.  My trench coat is coming along slowly, but surely.

Remember these pictures?
Yeah, I didn't use any of this.  Hah.  I was looking forward to working some silk magic but ended up ditching that idea in the end.  I still plan to make the navy blue trench coat, but for fall instead of now.  The red stretch cotton sateen was a world of swears waiting to happen, so back to the stash it goes.

I went traditional with a sandy-colored cotton twill with a hint of sheen on the right side.  Despite the dull color, this was the right choice of fabric.  It's not too heavy and presses nicely.
I'm sort of half-following the instructions.  I completed the back first and fiddled around with the front - filling in blanks as I needed.  For example, I made the button hole in the back yoke before attaching it to the back.  Why in the world would you want to work a buttonhole after the whole coat is constructed?  In fact, the instructions save all of the buttonholes until the end.  O_o  Who thought this was a good idea? #FailWaitingToHappen
I'm not feeling the gun flap.  I hadn't pressed it yet in this picture, but have since then.  I'll give it another day on the dress form before deciding to keep or ditch it.  I don't know why it's puckering like this.  Maybe I needed to adjust the flap for the FBA.
I included a back stay out of pre-washed muslin.  I do this on (almost) all jackets and coats.
The jacket and sleeve hems are interfaced as well.  For some reason I thought the hem was 5/8" so I cut strips just slightly larger than that.  Then I read (somewhere) that the hems are 1 5/8".  Oops. 

Here's where the coat stands.  I have to refit the sides and decide on the gun flap before I can go on to the epaulettes.  In the meantime, I tried out button ideas and I think the dark brown buttons make the jacket look timeless.  Problem is:  I only have ten buttons and I need eleven.  I bought the buttons over a year ago and can't find them anymore.  Waaaah. 

That's all for now.  Until next time, peace!

L


8 comments:

  1. This is coming along well, and I love your final fabric/colour choice ~ definitely the way to go. Can't wait to see it finished ... soon ... J

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    Replies
    1. Thanks Judith. I am very happy with this fabric color and choice. The navy fabric will work nicely as well, but I think it's better for fall.

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  2. I love that neither of the initial fabrics made the cut. Gotta follow your gut.

    It is progressing so well. I love the gun flap and am curious to see what you decide. On the buttons...wahhhh. That stinks. :-(

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    1. Yup! I like the gun flap too, but the pucker is not flattering. I pressed this area over a ham yesterday and let it rest. I'll sew the side and shoulder seams again and try it on. If it still puckers, I'm ditching the flap.

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  3. Great progress, and I wish I could justify making a trenchcoat. It looks wonderful so far. I like the colors, and your button choice. Are you sure you really need 11?

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    Replies
    1. Thanks Mary!

      Yes, I need at least eleven: six on the front, two for each sleeve, two for each epaulette, and one for the back yoke. If I can find a very close match, I'll use it on the back yoke.

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  4. So far so good. I agree that that dark button look better. I wanted to add the back yoke and gun flap to mine but didn't have enough fabric. We're gonna be needing these soon so we've got to get finished!

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  5. Great color choice and I like the gun flap. You are so inspiring me to start on my jacket.

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Thanks for commenting! I appreciate and read them all - even if I can not personally respond.

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