05 July 2014

Kwik Sew 2895 (jean-style jacket)

I make a lot of muslins.  A lot.  I don't want to cut into my 'good' fabric until I'm satisfied with the fit.  I once made a total of nine muslins (4 of one pattern, 5 of another) for a cocktail dress.  The ninth muslin was the one that worked and I used it to produce a lovely dress for which I still get compliments when worn.  I never blogged about it; perhaps I should.

That said, I do know when to quit.  You win, Simplicity 2443.  Your very short boxy design and weird waist flare are the ghostbuster to my Stay-Puft marshmallow man.  (Guess what I watched recently for the umpteenth time...) I tried to make it work, but it wasn't to be.  It's such a cute pattern too, but I am done foolin' with it.

Enter Kwik Sew 2895.


Fabric & Notions:
  • 1 3/4 yards of dark blue non-stretch denim
  • fusible interfacing
  • six gold metal buttons
Machine Setup:
  • first machine:  80/12 universal needle and regular thread
  • second machine:  100/16 jeans needle and topstitching thread
  • serger:  regular serger thread
Sizing/Alterations:  I traced a size medium based on the finished bust measurement of 44".  I compared the pattern pieces to that of one of my favorite jackets, Kwik Sew 3558, and was satisfied with what I saw.  The width at bust level seemed okay.  Notice I said "seemed okay."

The hazard of using finished measurement numbers is that the number is based on how the pattern's standard block measures around the body.  In theory, 44" should be enough room to go around my body since my full bust is 41".  But this circumference isn't divided equally.  At bust level from side to side, I measure roughly 15" on the back and 26" on the front.  This pattern measures 20" across the back and 24" across the front.  This is why most patterns are ginormous across the back and tight on the front.  I don't carry my fullness equally and I doubt many women do.

That said, I didn't decrease the back width because I intend to wear the jacket over blouses/tops and don't want movement to be restricted.  

The only alteration involved adding 1/2" to the center panel seam that is joined with the front/button panel.  The panels beneath the yoke are curved to accommodate the bust.  One seam curved too far away from CF so adding the extra 1/2" helped bring it closer to center.  I couldn't figure out how to do a slight FBA and settled on this quick fix instead. 

I didn't do a swayback adjustment, but probably should have.

The only thing I don't like is the pooling of fabric near the armhole in the upper bust area.
See what I'm talking about?  I searched the net and found that many jean-style jackets fit like this.  I don't like it, but at least my version is as good as RTW.

Note:  The pattern is freakishly SHORT!  I wanted to make view B (blue jacket in pattern photo) with the waistband.  But, view B is about 4 inches shorter than view A.  I suppose the pattern photo isn't quite misleading, but I don't think it's not telling the whole truth.  View A ends below the waistband as shown.  But if you wear low-rise jeans, view A will definitely end above the waistband.  Check the length before cutting into your fashion fabric!

Construction:  Sewing the jacket didn't take long and was kind of fun.  It took me about two and half days to complete, but can probably be sewn in a day if there are no interruptions.  

Others who've made this pattern state that the front self-facing isn't long enough.  I agree.  The end of the facing stops very short of the shoulder seam and makes for an unattractive finish.  Fortunately, it can't be seen from the outside.  When I make this pattern again, I'll do what others did and extend the facing.



When topstitching the front, I used dark blue thread in the bobbin so that it didn't show through on the wrong side. Usually I use the same color for both the bobbin and needle, but I didn't like how it looked since I intend to wear the jacket unbuttoned.  I also did the same for the buttonholes.



I omitted the pocket bags on the front because I don't use chest pockets.  Some say that busty chicks shouldn't wear pocket flaps on the front.  I don't think the addition of these flaps draws any significant attention to that area.  The flaps are above the bust, so I'm not getting the dreaded "headlight effect" either.

Conclusion:  This pattern is a winner.  It's got all of the elements of a traditional jeans-style jacket with great fit.  The flare at the waist isn't dramatic and I can button it if I want to, though that is not likely to happen.


Up next:  I have no idea.  I made three muslins (hah) of button-front shirts and am discouraged from going forward.  My weight has changed a lot and I'm not satisfied with the fit.  Soooooo...yeah...I'm working on getting in better shape.  In the meantime, I don't know what to sew.  Maybe I'll make another jacket.

Until next time, peace!

L

44 comments:

  1. Your 'working with denim' skills are on point. That jacket looks better than RTW. Great fit too.

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    1. Haha. Thank you Robin. Denim is like my comfort food for fabric. =)

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  2. It's fricken fantastic!!! Wow! Looks so professional and will be a crazy good wardrobe addition.

    Do you "do" jumpsuits?? I'm thinking of going downstairs and cutting one, right now. Lol!!

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    1. Thank you Nakisha! I've worn it three times already and it hasn't even been a week since I finished it. I definitely see another one in the future.

      Nah. I don't do jumpsuits. When I have to GO, I can't be foolin' around with trying to get out of that damn thing. I like them on everyone else except me. =)

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  3. You are a serious sewer! As you know, I'm a muslin maker too, haven't made 9 for one project yet, but recently did 4 practice collars with bands that caused me frustration because I still didn't get it right. Oh well, I moved on too. Your jacket is wonderful, topstitching perfect, and the finished look definitely passes the test.

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    1. Yah, I saw your post about the collar stand. They look so simple, yet cause immense frustration. It's good to know when to move on. Thanks for the compliments!

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  4. This looks fantastic and the fit is spot on! Love the GB reference ... I also just watched it (and 2) recently ... and boy did I feel OLD. LOL

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    1. Thanks Debbie! Haha...gotta love GB. =) "...dogs and cats living together. Mass hysteria!"

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  5. Also meant to say ... got your info and and as soon as I find the nearest PO and get my butt to it, I will mail your pattern.

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  6. woah! that jacket is impressive...

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  7. I love your jacket! I have three jean-style jackets (one me-made, the other two picked up on sale at Old Navy) and wear all three quite a bit--they're a great lightweight topper.

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    1. I agree! This jacket was perfect for the chilly (!!) weather we've had the last couple of days.

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  8. You have done a fantastic job on this jacket! The fit is wonderful and I love the topstitching.

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    1. Thank you Mary! I am already thinking up a second version.

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  9. Okay, you're on a league of your own. This is amazing!

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  10. That's a seriously great jacket.. great fit, great topstitching, and looks wonderful on you! Congrats on such a good job.

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  11. Love your jacket. I have had this pattern for - e- ver! You have inspired me to put it on the mental to-do list once Sydney's short sharp winter is over.

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    1. Thanks Valerie! It all began with your lovely Butterick jacket. =) I *had* to have it...well...something like it!

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  12. You have made a fabulous jacket and the fit looks spot on to me. Love it. Great job Lynn.

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    1. Thanks BeaJay! I'm looking out for your silk burnout cardi!

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  13. Wow! Your tenacity is to be admired, I wish I had an ounce of it! Your topstitching looks absolutely amazing, job well done!!!

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    1. Aww. Thanks Kristine! We still have to get lunch!

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  14. Amazing! Lynn, this jacket is fantastic and the fit is spot on!

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  15. Fabulous! I think you're right about the above bust fullness but it doesn't look bad on you. Love it. We really are twins - I once made 7 toiles for a pair of jeans. He he. And I also get flummoxed on what to sew when I've gained weight and am not happy with it. Ha! Oh & I also did the 2 machine set up thing for topstitching. TWIN!

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    1. Tee-hee. Told ya! We were totally separated at birth. For my first pair of jeans, I made five muslins. After the fifth one, I threw caution to the wind and just went for it. Best. Decision. Ever.

      Having two machines for topstitching works wonders for my sanity. =)

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  16. You've outdone yourself on this. It's better than RTW quality.

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    1. Hehe. Thanks Dorothy! I really like the jacket.

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  17. Much better than RTW, your jacket looks amazing on you and great topstitching!

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    1. Thanks Sharon! I'm very happy with it and plan to make one more before the year is out.

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  18. Your sewing skills always impress me. Every aspect of your jacket is impeccable.

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  19. Another beautiful jacket and you did a fabulous job with the stitching. I am still swooning over your coat and blazer.

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  20. Great fit! Fabulous jacket ! Better than RTW. P

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  21. I like it! Nothing is ever perfect right? I must admit though that there is nothing more satisfying than working a muslin to get a near perfect fit but I feel you - I also know then it's time to give it up. Great craftwomanship on this jacket!!!

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  22. I must be the last to comment - I'm just back from Res School, so missed the post.

    Love this jacket Lynn - it works nicely on you - Kwik Sew seems to work for you. Some patterns just don't work, for anyone, so maybe Simplicity 3358 is one of them.

    I think the pocket flaps work - after all, they are well above the fullest part of your bust, and tend to draw my eye up. As does the yike seamline. Then the vertical seams underneath take the eye down. So I think it works :). It looks great and you look great in it :)

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  23. I'm so glad this one worked for you, after all the trials, you have a winner. You look fantastic. Two snaps up!

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  24. Oops! I forgot to say, please post your dress and tell us about your adventure. Thanks, Cennetta

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Thanks for commenting! I appreciate and read them all - even if I can not personally respond.

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