20 July 2014

Simplicity 2614 (top) & New Look 6274 (skirt): Complete

Rayon challis is evil.  I hated sewing with it from the moment I started.  It shifts.  It stretches.  It wrinkles.  I swear it called me a name.

Despite the frustrations of working with this fabric, I pushed through and finished the top.

 paired with New Look 6274

The verdict?  I like it, but I don't love it.  I'm just glad it's done.  It looks really cute on the dress form, but when worn the fit issues are amplified.


While I intended to wear the top without a jacket, it's unlikely that will happen.  The armhole isn't too low, but something is wonky with the neck tie; the back doesn't rest properly on the neck.  I suspect the problem is in the facings.

Here's the top paired with my latest version of Kwik Sew 3558:

Fabric & Notions
  • 1.75 yards of rayon challis
  • fusible interfacing for back & front facings
  • regular and serger thread
  • 65/9 universal needle
 
Fit & Alterations:  I first made this pattern in 2011 out of a stretch cotton poplin.  Although the first version is less fluid than this one, it's comfortable to wear and fits well.  Originally I cut a size 16 everywhere except in the bust area.  There, I cut a size 18 using the D cup piece.  I also lowered the bust seam two inches so that the gathers were properly placed.  I made no additional adjustments.
 
The back and lower front are to be cut on the bias.  Since my fabric was shifty enough, I cut both on the straight grain.  
 
Construction:  Since I was OVER this project before sewing the first stitch, I decided to hasten its completion by serging everything.  I was going to do french seams, but quickly ditched that idea in favor of the least swear-inducing option.  
 
Conclusion:  I do plan to sew this again, but not in rayon challis.  I have a UFO of this pattern in a dark grey cotton that needs work.  I'll finish that...eventually.
 
As for working with rayon challis, I'm willing to try it again ONLY after I find a way to tame it.  I have several rayon challis fabrics and I'd love to use them, but not if they cause this much trouble.  Bad challis.  Bad.
 
********
 
As for the New Look skirt, there's nothing new to report.  I sewed it like I did every other version of this pattern:  invisible zipper, lining, petersham at the waist.  The fabric is a polyester-nylon lace that I purchased from Joann's.  I was hesitant about the fabric at first because the lace started to pull away from its backing.  The fabric survived washing and pressing, so hopefully the garment will last.
 
Up next:  I bought some fabric and won a contest.  I can speak on those matters.  As for sewing, I have no idea. =)
 
Until next time, peace!
 
L
 
 

20 comments:

  1. Very cute and I Love the skirt.

    Now, about this challis...I remember feeling like, "OMG rayon challis is AWESOME!" But since working on V1395, I've felt like balling it up and tossing it. Maybe as a rank newbie I didn't know I was screwing up. I'm not completely happy with my sewing on this but will carry on. I think I will try the whole starch stabilizing trick as I bought a bunch more challis :/

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    Replies
    1. Thank you!

      I had the same reaction when I first got the rayon challis; it's such a nice silk-like fabric. But man, to sew this stuff really tried my patience. I will try and starch some scraps to see if that helps.

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  2. I have a 2 yard section of rayon challis that, now, I'm afraid to touch. But why does it always feel so nice?!

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    Replies
    1. I know, right? The fabric is so deceptive!

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  3. Sorry to hear that you had a difficult time with rayon challis. I'm getting ready to sew a skirt with some but I found it lovely to work with when I sewed a blouse. I wonder if there are different grades of rayon challis? I haven't found it to be shifty personally.

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    Replies
    1. That's an interesting question. I don't find sewing with rayon lining nearly as taxing. Hmm. I wonder if the weave have something to do with it.

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  4. I've made a few things from rayon challis, and I don't remember it being that bad, either. I am planning to do a drapey trackpant in challis for the mini-wardrobe, though, so maybe I'll be reminded of it. :P

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    Replies
    1. Haha. I'd love to hear about your experience.

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  5. Lash out and buy some silk crepe ....it'll be gorgeous

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    Replies
    1. I'm all for lashing out and buying fabric. =)

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  6. I think you are a little hard on your top. I think it is gorgeous and goes so well with your colouring. It does look lovely with that fantastic jacket.

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    1. Thanks BeaJay. I can be overly self-critical. I definitely have to work on that.

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  7. Love the colour on you and sorry it isn't what you expected. The lace skirt looks amazing and your latest version of KS3588 looks impressive.

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    1. Thank you Sharon! I think one of my next garments will be that fantastic Burda skirt.

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  8. Girl, that jacket looks soooo fantastic & flattering on you. Just sayin'.
    I can't see any problem with the top but I feel your pain. As your twin. :)

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  9. You are TOO funny! I like it...especially the color...and the style come to think of it! Hope it somehow grows on you!

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    1. LOL Thanks Terri. =) I think as long as it's worn under something, I'll be okay with it.

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  10. I agree with you about Rayon challis - I avoid it like the plague. I remember it from the 80's and remember the lesson well. It's nice to wear, but a pain to sew and iron.

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    Replies
    1. P.S. but it looks okay, and probably will be very handy for a hot day. Even the not so favoured garments have their moment in the sun, if you let them :)

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Thanks for commenting! I appreciate and read them all - even if I can not personally respond.

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