05 August 2014

Complete: Simplicity 2151 (button-front shirt)

Thanks to all who left words of encouragement on my latest Ramblings post.  I appreciate your stopping by to say hi and keep your head up.  I've still been up and down, but I'm working on remaining positive.

Though I've added even more to the fabric stash, I also sewed quite a bit so that kind of balances things out, right?

On with the review...

Don't adjust your monitors.  Yes, this is a button-front blouse.  I know, I'm shocked too.  Many moons have passed since I started my quest for a woven button-front top.  I don't think I'm there yet fit-wise, but I think this is a good start.
(paired with skinny-fied Jalie 2908)

Fabric & Notions
  • 2 yards of 45" stretch cotton poplin in deep magenta
  • light-weight non-stretch fusible interfacing
  • 70/10 microtex needle
Machines & Setup
  • regular machine for seams
  • serger for finishing seams together
Sizing, Fit, & Alterations:  As this is a multi-cup pattern, I cut an 18 D-cup in the bodice  a 16 in the collar, neckline, and armhole.  I can usually get away with this combination using Simplicity multi-cup patterns.   

Collar
Cutting a 16 in the collar/neckline was not a good idea.  It's too big and stands away from my neck. Either I need to use a smaller collar size or contour the collar a bit more so that it sits properly in place.

Bust
The only bust adjustment I made was to lower the bust fullness 1.25".  I did this by drawing a box around the bust curve and moving it down the desired amount.  This alteration was done on both the side and center fronts.



Shoulder princess seams just work for my full bust and it's one of the reasons I was drawn to this pattern.  So why in the WORLD doesn't the back have shoulder princess seams too?!  That annoys me about some patterns:  party in the front, buzz killington in the back.


When I made the muslin, the fit in the back was just wrong.  The swayback adjustment I made coupled with the darts made for a terrible fit.  So I turned the darts into shoulder princess seams.


Connie Crawford wrote an article on how to convert darts to princess seams.  It can be found on pages 46 - 51 of Threads #170.  Here's what I did: 

  • Measuring from the edge, I located the position of the front shoulder princess seam and marked this on the back shoulder line.
  • Then I drew a line from this point to the top of the back dart.  You may want to check the angle of the line for personal preferences.  Use a curved ruler to introduce a slight curve to follow the contour of the upper back.
  • Finally, I cut from shoulder to hem along the line drawn in step two and the dart legs.  

Voi-la!  I did my usual sway back adjustment on the center and side back and added notes to remember to add seam allowances on the fabric.

Unfortunately, I neglected to take pictures of the back.  Actually, it wasn't neglect.  I was tired, in a salty mood, and just didn't feel like it. =)  The fit across the back is spot on, trust me.

Sleeves
When I make this again, I will shorten the sleeves a bit.  On someone taller, this might be a good length.  On me, it looks like I ran out of fabric and "did the best I could with what I had."

Conclusion:  I definitely plan to sew this again.  I want to make the tie-neck version in a more fluid fabric.  I think poplin was a good choice here, but this pattern would benefit better in something a bit less stiff.

I will always wear the shirt belted.  ALWAYS!

Up next:  I've started working on fall clothes.  I put together some coordinating fabrics to make a mini wardrobe.  I hope to post the review of Kwik Sew 2960 (inspired by SarahLiz) soon.

Until next time, peace!

L

29 comments:

  1. Hey L are we going to hook up for the sewing expo??

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  2. Your blouse looks great! Is it weird that I actually like the collar on you (with whatever weird stand-away thing it's doing) better than in the line drawing? It's giving kind of a cool neckline effect on you (something I never would have picked up from the line drawing). Granted, I'm always a sucker for a unique neckline.

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    Replies
    1. Hah, no I don't think it's weird. I'm glad you like it! It feels awkward to me. If I put my hair up, you would be able to see what I was talking about. Needless to say, I will not be wearing my hair up with this top. =)

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  3. Great color and pretty blouse! Thanks for showing the alteration you made to the curve...very interesting! I'm sure your next version will be even more amazing!

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  4. It looks great, I started thinking about fall clothes but not started yet.
    Keep the positive spirit!

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    Replies
    1. Thank you Sigrid! I'm in full fall sewing mode. I pulled fabrics and everything. =)

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  5. *Love* the color of this blouse on you! It is very cute and I love how the top is framing your face.

    Keep looking up!

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  6. L, Your blouse is pretty. Thanks for sharing the details.

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    1. Thank you Cennetta. I hope to share more alteration details soon.

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  7. Darn it, my comment disappeared.

    I like collar and I think the color is pretty on you. I also think it looks good without the belt. :)

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    Replies
    1. Google monster got you too, huh? =) Thanks Niema!

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  8. Very nice. Love that neckline. You have made the pattern work for you. Looking forward to seeing your next softer version.

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    1. Thanks Beverly! I have the fabric - just need to wash and cut. =)

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  9. I looks pretty darn good for your first attempt! This is really cute on you and I love the belt option too!

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    1. Thanks Myra! Me and button-fronts have had a hate-hate relationship. =)

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  10. Great looking blouse, the colour is perfect and looks fantastic on you. Love the neckline.

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  11. Very pretty blouse. The collar and neckline looks fine from here!

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    Replies
    1. Haha. Just don't get any closer. =) Thank you!

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    2. Haha. Just don't get any closer. =) Thanks Valerie!

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  12. That colour is just right for you. A lovely blouse, and looks fine in the fabric you have made it in - more tailored. I agree, if you want the tie neck blouse, a softer fabric is the way to go ....just not the devil incarnate viscose :)

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    Replies
    1. Oh man. Viscose is definitely the devil incarnate. I really think the pattern will play well with softer fabric. Thanks SL!

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  13. I really like the length and color of this shirt. It turned out beautifully with your adjustments.

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  14. I am really late in responding to your blog post, but "better late than never". I think you have made a darling blouse, and it looks wonderful. The belt really notches up the style!

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Thanks for commenting! I appreciate and read them all - even if I can not personally respond.

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