Thanks to all who left words of encouragement on my latest Ramblings post. I appreciate your stopping by to say hi and keep your head up. I've still been up and down, but I'm working on remaining positive.
Though I've added even more to the fabric stash, I also sewed quite a bit so that kind of balances things out, right?
On with the review...
Don't adjust your monitors. Yes, this is a button-front blouse. I know, I'm shocked too. Many moons have passed since I started my quest for a woven button-front top. I don't think I'm there yet fit-wise, but I think this is a good start.
(paired with skinny-fied Jalie 2908)
Fabric & Notions
- 2 yards of 45" stretch cotton poplin in deep magenta
- light-weight non-stretch fusible interfacing
- 70/10 microtex needle
- regular machine for seams
- serger for finishing seams together
Sizing, Fit, & Alterations: As this is a multi-cup pattern, I cut an 18 D-cup in the bodice a 16 in the collar, neckline, and armhole. I can usually get away with this combination using Simplicity multi-cup patterns.
Cutting a 16 in the collar/neckline was not a good idea. It's too big and stands away from my neck. Either I need to use a smaller collar size or contour the collar a bit more so that it sits properly in place.
The only bust adjustment I made was to lower the bust fullness 1.25". I did this by drawing a box around the bust curve and moving it down the desired amount. This alteration was done on both the side and center fronts.
Shoulder princess seams just work for my full bust and it's one of the reasons I was drawn to this pattern. So why in the WORLD doesn't the back have shoulder princess seams too?! That annoys me about some patterns: party in the front, buzz killington in the back.
When I made the muslin, the fit in the back was just wrong. The swayback adjustment I made coupled with the darts made for a terrible fit. So I turned the darts into shoulder princess seams.
Connie Crawford wrote an article on how to convert darts to princess seams. It can be found on pages 46 - 51 of Threads #170. Here's what I did:
- Measuring from the edge, I located the position of the front shoulder princess seam and marked this on the back shoulder line.
- Then I drew a line from this point to the top of the back dart. You may want to check the angle of the line for personal preferences. Use a curved ruler to introduce a slight curve to follow the contour of the upper back.
- Finally, I cut from shoulder to hem along the line drawn in step two and the dart legs.
Voi-la! I did my usual sway back adjustment on the center and side back and added notes to remember to add seam allowances on the fabric.
Unfortunately, I neglected to take pictures of the back. Actually, it wasn't neglect. I was tired, in a salty mood, and just didn't feel like it. =) The fit across the back is spot on, trust me.
When I make this again, I will shorten the sleeves a bit. On someone taller, this might be a good length. On me, it looks like I ran out of fabric and "did the best I could with what I had."
Conclusion: I definitely plan to sew this again. I want to make the tie-neck version in a more fluid fabric. I think poplin was a good choice here, but this pattern would benefit better in something a bit less stiff.
I will always wear the shirt belted. ALWAYS!
Up next: I've started working on fall clothes. I put together some coordinating fabrics to make a mini wardrobe. I hope to post the review of Kwik Sew 2960 (inspired by SarahLiz) soon.
Until next time, peace!
Until next time, peace!