04 December 2014

New Look 6053 (skirt): Complete

Sorry for the cruddy selfies.  I took these on my way to work and was in a rush.  I figured I would be too tired to pose for the camera after I came home.  I was sooooo right. 

skirt:  view B (upper left)
jacket:  Kwik Sew 2895
top:  Simplicity 1945 

This is the same skirt that's paired my second and frustratingly puckered version of New Look 6407.  Incidentally, I am working simultaneously on a third and fourth version of this blouse pattern and have wrinkles of another kind.  More on that in another post.

Back to the supposed-to-be pencil skirt.

Fabric/Notions:
  • 1.5 yards raw silk tweed (from the stash...woot!)
  • 0.75 yards silk or silk-blend something that I used for lining but probably shouldn't have (also from the stash!)
  • 7" invisible zipper
  • fusible interfacing
  • 70/10 microtex needle
  • serger and sewing machine

Fit and Alterations:  I made my standard full seat adjustment of 1.25".  I added a wedge beneath the darts and trued the center back seam at the waist.  I removed the extra width gained by truing the CB from the side seam.  Pictures and a step-by-step description of how I make this alteration can be found here.  

I like the way New Look skirts fit and I usually don't need to make any more adjustments.  

Construction & Lining:  Construction was easy since the pattern only has four pieces:  front (cut on fold), back (cut two), and front/back facings.

You read correctly: I added the facings!  I would say that there's a pig flying somewhere, but since that actually happened, I guess I have to stop using that phrase.  O_o

Usually I ditch the facings in favor of supporting the waist with petersham.  I learned this in a Kenneth D. King workshop and haven't looked back.  This time, however, I wanted to the inside of the skirt to look nice and pretty like this:


photo credit:  lladybird
How'd that work out?


Meh it's okay.  I think what I'm looking for is best suited for skirts with a waistband.  This just seems to add more bulk where it's not needed. 

Given that I've made three coats and several jackets, trying to create the lining pieces was a head-scratcher.  I had to think (probably way more than necessary) about how to get the lining and facing to be one piece without exposing the edge of the facing.  Here's what I did:

1.  I folded out the dart and traced the facing edge onto the lining piece.  


2.  I  measured up from the newly-drawn line 1 1/4" (two seam allowances).


3.  After the top piece is removed, I followed the same steps for the other skirt piece.  (I can't remember if I started with the skirt front or skirt back.)

This is the process I followed when creating the lining pieces from scratch when facings are involved.  It seemed to work well on my Indygo Junction coats, so I figured the same idea would work here.

I'm going back to the petersham method.  I'm not skilled enough to make this other way work.  And then there's this:




Bleh!  Not a nice finish and I press as I sew.  All.  The.  Time. 

Wearability Rating (3.5 out of 5):  What I used for the lining was not a good match.  The lining kept getting hung up on my tights, which made the skirt bunch up in weird ways as I walked.  It wasn't uncomfortable, but very annoying.  I think the fabric I used was probably better suited for a blouse or skirt.  If I want to continue wearing this garment, I'll definitely have to replace the lining and facings.

Conclusion:


New Look skirts are solid go-tos for me, so I'll probably make this again.  I was a little disappointed that the skirt wasn't more pencil-like in the end.  I suppose I have to peg the hem a bit to remove some of the flare.  Otherwise, the skirt fits just like my other A-line skirts.

Until next time, peace!

14 comments:

  1. nice job on the skirt! I've got a KS straight maxie skirt pattern that I use to refurbish full skirts that I'm tired of lol! I'm amazed you madce a jean jacket, I can never find one I really like, never thougth to just make one, love the color of the blouse, I ahve a cowl neck pattern but it kinda scares me lol!

    Helen

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    1. Thanks Helen! I was totally smitten with Valerie's jeans jacket when I met her in May. I was on a mission to make a jacket like hers! Despite a few fit issues, I love that jacket and wear it a lot.

      KS2895 is a great pattern!

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  2. Very flattering skirt - and silk tweed sounds sort of delicious!!!!!

    I like skirts with a waistband because if I can't stitch in the ditch; I'm not going.

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    1. Thanks N! The fabric is very nice, though it does pick up lint easily. Hmm..

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  3. Cute skirt! That's a bummer about the facing/lining not being particularly wearable because it looks really good on you in your pictures.

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    Replies
    1. Thank you Michelle! This is a lesson to stick with what works. =)

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  4. You've changed your hair - it looks lovely (it did before as well :)).

    It's great to learn new methods, if only to reassure oneself that there is nothing wrong with using methods that suit you. I have found most skirt patterns that are straight needed to be tapered if you want a pencil skirt.

    What a pity about the lining - the skirt looks gorgeous in such a great fabric. Makes sense to redo the lining if you won't wear it - tedious though.

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    Replies
    1. Ah yes, the locks. =) I straighten my hair when it's cold out because it lasts longer. I've worn my hair curly since May and wanted a change. Thank you!

      Yes, I will definitely taper the bottom a bit to get the pencil look. When I compared this to other A-line skirts, the shape was basically the same.

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  5. That is a lovely skirt. Very very chic and professional.

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  6. I really love your skirt and nice fabric choice

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  7. I love NL dresses and need to get back into making more of them! My TNT skirt is a NL A-line.

    Your skirt looks great, even if you don't like the inside. What about wearing it with a nylon half slip? That is what I did with my turquoise sweater dress, which I lined with stretch poly that kept sticking to my tights. I wear it with nylon half slip under that, which keeps the poly lining from sticking to my tights.

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    Replies
    1. D'oh! Good idea. =) I have some half-slips and will definitely try it on the next wear.

      My TNT is also a NL A-line. NL skirts, for the most part, fit me very well with minimal alterations. I have yet to make NL dress, though I have many patterns and lots of ideas.

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Thanks for commenting! I appreciate and read them all - even if I can not personally respond.

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