Sorry for the cruddy selfies. I took these on my way to work and was in a rush. I figured I would be too tired to pose for the camera after I came home. I was sooooo right.
skirt: view B (upper left)
jacket: Kwik Sew 2895
top: Simplicity 1945
This is the same skirt that's paired my second and frustratingly puckered version of New Look 6407. Incidentally, I am working simultaneously on a third and fourth version of this blouse pattern and have wrinkles of another kind. More on that in another post.
Back to the supposed-to-be pencil skirt.
- 1.5 yards raw silk tweed (from the stash...woot!)
- 0.75 yards silk or silk-blend something that I used for lining but probably shouldn't have (also from the stash!)
- 7" invisible zipper
- fusible interfacing
- 70/10 microtex needle
- serger and sewing machine
Fit and Alterations: I made my standard full seat adjustment of 1.25". I added a wedge beneath the darts and trued the center back seam at the waist. I removed the extra width gained by truing the CB from the side seam. Pictures and a step-by-step description of how I make this alteration can be found here.
I like the way New Look skirts fit and I usually don't need to make any more adjustments.
Construction & Lining: Construction was easy since the pattern only has four pieces: front (cut on fold), back (cut two), and front/back facings.
You read correctly: I added the facings! I would say that there's a pig flying somewhere, but since that actually happened, I guess I have to stop using that phrase. O_o
Usually I ditch the facings in favor of supporting the waist with petersham. I learned this in a Kenneth D. King workshop and haven't looked back. This time, however, I wanted to the inside of the skirt to look nice and pretty like this:
|photo credit: lladybird|
Meh it's okay. I think what I'm looking for is best suited for skirts with a waistband. This just seems to add more bulk where it's not needed.
Given that I've made three coats and several jackets, trying to create the lining pieces was a head-scratcher. I had to think (probably way more than necessary) about how to get the lining and facing to be one piece without exposing the edge of the facing. Here's what I did:
1. I folded out the dart and traced the facing edge onto the lining piece.
2. I measured up from the newly-drawn line 1 1/4" (two seam allowances).
3. After the top piece is removed, I followed the same steps for the other skirt piece. (I can't remember if I started with the skirt front or skirt back.)
This is the process I followed when creating the lining pieces from scratch when facings are involved. It seemed to work well on my Indygo Junction coats, so I figured the same idea would work here.
I'm going back to the petersham method. I'm not skilled enough to make this other way work. And then there's this:
Bleh! Not a nice finish and I press as I sew. All. The. Time.
Wearability Rating (3.5 out of 5): What I used for the lining was not a good match. The lining kept getting hung up on my tights, which made the skirt bunch up in weird ways as I walked. It wasn't uncomfortable, but very annoying. I think the fabric I used was probably better suited for a blouse or skirt. If I want to continue wearing this garment, I'll definitely have to replace the lining and facings.Conclusion:
New Look skirts are solid go-tos for me, so I'll probably make this again. I was a little disappointed that the skirt wasn't more pencil-like in the end. I suppose I have to peg the hem a bit to remove some of the flare. Otherwise, the skirt fits just like my other A-line skirts.
Until next time, peace!