29 January 2015

BurdaStyle 1-2015-109 (skirt) & New Look 6407 (blouse): Complete

One of my sewing intentions for 2015 is to keep up with the Burda-a-month sew along started by Dawn at Two On, Two Off.  I figured that since I have a lot of magazines, it shouldn't be too hard to find and sew one pattern each month.

So far, January is off to a good start with this skirt.

Obviously I need to work on my tripod-camera-taking skills.  I never seem to get the top of my head in the photo.


Fabric & Notions:
  • 1.5 yards of medium-weight stretch wool twill
  • 1.5 yards ambiance lining
  • 7" invisible zipper
  • petersham as waist facing
  • 80/12 universal needle
  • serger and sewing machine

The pattern:  There are only three pieces:  center front/back, side front/back, and upper side front/back.  There is also a rectangular waistband, but I didn't use it because I didn't have enough fabric. 

Size:  The largest size available for this pattern is 42.  I wasn't sure if this was going to fit, so I compared the waist/hip area to another BWOF pattern that I made in size 44.  I knew the 44 was too big, so I figured the 42 would be just right.  Due to the stretch of my fabric, I ended up having to take larger seam allowances to make the skirt fit at the waist. I did not make a muslin!

Alterations:  I always have to do a 1.25-inch full seat adjustment on skirts.  Since the center front/back and side panels are all the same pieces, I made separate pieces for the back to make the adjustment.

 1.25 inches added straight across to center back

1.25-inch wedge added to long side panel piece
1.25-inch wedge added to short side panel piece

I made no changes to the front pieces.

Construction:   Sewing was pretty easy.  Beware that the side seams (where the two flared panels meet) are sewn before the front/back seams.  I thought about sewing in a different order so that I could fit along the way, but decided to just follow the instructions and make any in-progress adjustments on the front/back seams.


Also, the zipper is installed in the side back seam, and not in the side.   I questioned this at first, but realized that this is a good idea because the side seams have four layers of fabric and that probably would have been a PITA to deal with.

I used my serger to finish the edges of the fabric first, then sewed them together with my machine.  To reduce bulk (and there's a lot of it with all these layers), I pressed the seams open.

I finished the hem with a rolled hem.  I didn't add any hem allowance when I cut out the pieces and the length is perfect for me.


I wore this outfit to work on Wednesday and got a few compliments.  The skirt is very flirty and I loved how it "swished" when I walked.

********

The top is my fourth version of New Look 6407.   


The wrinkles are from wearing the outfit all day.

Remember these?


Yeah, I got rid of that foolishness.  I am MUCH happier with the latest version. 

I didn't use french seams in sewing this version; instead, I serged the seams to one side and pressed.  Better finish in less time.  Score!

Many people rave about Pam's interfacing at Fashion Sewing Supply.  Well +1 me to that bandwagon.  I hesitated for a long time because this stuff is expensive, but it is SO worth it.

Look at that awesome crispness!  I don't think I will ever use a different interfacing in my shirts again.  You can tell that the facing is interfaced because the fabric's natural wrinkles don't even show up!  That is some serious product.

The sewing instructions weren't too clear on which side of the collar and stand should be interfaced:  upper vs. under collar and inner vs. outer stand.  So I emailed Pam and she said that any piece that faces the body receives lightweight or NO interfacing.  So the under collar, inside collar stand, and inside cuffs (if I had any) are not interfaced.  Following her suggestions made such a huge difference in how the collar lays on my neck.

Now if only I can get those damn collar points to be...um...pointy.

Anyway.  I am totally stoked about my first two finished garments of 2015.  Woot.

I've started working on Simplicity 4077.


I tried sewing this about 8 years ago when I was still learning about FBAs and fit.  Now that I have a good fitting blouse with shoulder princess seams, I'm going to try to alter this one to fit.  

I love me some New Look 6407, but that V-neck is quite scandalous.  I had to wear a tank top underneath the teal one for work because there was all kinds of flashing going on.  I'm eager to try this Simplicity pattern.  

I saw a review where someone made the one with ruffles in a black eyelet.  It was so cute!  I have some black eyelet in the stash too!  Details (good or bad) coming soon.  Eventually.  Hopefully. =)

Until next time, peace!

L

30 comments:

  1. I so love this skirt on you;the entire look is fabulous! Thanks for showing your alterations to your Burda pattern pieces,for some reason I was truly puzzled as the how to.. I think I was,am intimidated lol..


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    1. Thanks and you're quite welcome! The maze that is the Burda pattern sheet gets clearer the more you do it. Be sure to look at the line drawings in the magazine because they show all of the piece's markings and notches. Also, you can locate a pattern easily using the colored numbers at the top of each sheet. Say you needed to trace a sleeve piece and the pattern lines are green. If the piece is number 3, look for a "green 3" at the top of the page and follow that invisible line into the maze. The 3 should be on the same invisible line as the 3 on the pattern piece.

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  2. I love the skirt - it really does flatter you.Wearing a flirty, swishy skirt certainly changes how you feel about yourself when you wear it. Looks great with the blouse and belt - and the colours are just so right for you.

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    1. Yes, it does! I felt really good on Friday. =) Thanks Sarah Liz! These colors are part of my "Starting from Scratch" wardrobe-building idea.

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  3. thats a very nice skirt pattern, t really suits you. Great start to the new year

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  4. I love Pam's interfacing too! It's much wider than other interfacings and works really well with the Elna Press. The only Joann's interfacing I use now is Peltex for bags.

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    1. Oh man why did I wait so long! Well, I know why. I'm che...uh...cost conscious. =) I haven't bought garment interfacing from Joann's in a long, long time. I bought a whole bunch of interfacing for pants and jackets/coats while in NY. But I really wanted something for blouses. This stuff is great!

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  5. So cute L!!! I love the top and the skirt!

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    1. Thanks Nakisha! Go ahead and make this skirt girl!

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  6. That skirt turned out really cute. I will have to look into that interfacing. I'm not familiar with it but I like the results!

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    1. Yes, definitely check out the interfacing. I used Pro-Woven Fusible LIGHT Crisp and followed her instructions for application. You can get it at Fashion Sewing Supply.

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  7. Love this skirt and really love it on you!

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  8. I saw that skirt on Burda's site and wondered how it would look made up - now I know; it's so cute! And I'm so glad to hear that serging works better than french seaming for those princess lines; win-win! I am a huge fan of Pam's interfacings; I have purged all others from my supply basket. She also posted a tutorial on her website for how to get *perfect* collar points; here's the link: http://off-the-cuff-style.blogspot.com/2012/10/perfect-collar-pointsa-shirtmakers.html

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    1. Win-win for sure! I was trying to be all faux-couture or something and just could not get those princess seams to press properly. Oh well. The serger works just fine for me!

      Thank you SO MUCH for sharing the link on collar points. I read the post and must try this on the next shirt!

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  9. Great looking outfit, the skirt is serious with some fun and your blouse is sitting so well, what a great start to 2015.

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    1. Thank you Sharon! This is part of my SFS plan. I'm excited about putting the pieces together!

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  10. Fabulous outfit. That skirt is so sweet. You certainly have perfected your look with your separates. Well done with the blouse. I love Pam's interfacing too and always look out for her sales - she emails them out if you are on the list. I will be watching your burda monthly makes with interest. Kristy from Lower Your Pressure Foot has been doing monthly burdas for some time now. Always interesting.

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    1. Aww, thanks BeaJay! I like wearing separates and had fun wearing this outfit. Hah. I'll be watching my Burda makes too! Already February is looking a little iffy. =)

      I'll have to check out Kristy's makes.

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  11. Congratulations on your first month's accomplishment in the Burda Style Challenge. You did a nice job.

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  12. Love both the skirt and the blouse! You did a great job.

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  13. Both pieces are very nice L! I bet you feel good in them too!

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    1. I did, I did! I often wear jeans to work because it's so freakin' cold outside. I doubled up with super warm leggings, stockings, and boots this time and felt really good wearing this outfit!

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  14. I love your outfit - the skirt is going to be a big hit for Burda.

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  16. Pretty skirt and perfect with the blouse.

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  17. Love your outfit, the skirt flatters you very much. I'm in love with this skirt, I also sewed last month, it's easy but stunning.

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Thanks for commenting! I appreciate and read them all - even if I can not personally respond.

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