27 May 2015

Simplicity 2284 (jacket): Complete



I just haven't taken the time to get photos of me wearing it or the other things I made recently.  I will eventually.

Fabric & Notions
  • little more than 1.5 yards of wool tweed-like fabric
  • 1.5 yards of black ambiance lining
  • 20-inch metal separating zipper
  • six metal buttons
  • fusible interfacing
  • muslin scrap for back stay
  • bias-cut fleece strips for sleeve heads
  • 80/12 universal needle (shell); 70/10 microtex needle (lining)
  • sewing machine and serger

Size & Fit/Alterations:  I've had really good experience with Simplicity's multi-cup patterns.  I recently tried to sew the very popular Butterick 5678 dress shirt pattern and it was a huge fail.  Though I used the D-cup pattern piece, it was still too tight, then too loose, then too tight again.  I mean, way to play with my emotions.  

Simplicity's multi-cup patterns, on the other hand, seem to agree with my curves much better.  I started with a size 16 D cup and made the following minor adjustments:
  • lowered bust fullness 1 inch on the front and side front panels
  • 1 inch sway back adjustment
  • shortened the sleeves 1.5 inches between the notches

That's it!  I can zip the entire jacket up to my neck and there is ZERO pulling.  I would never wear it completely zipped, but the fact that I can makes me do a happy-dance.

The only thing is the neckline is a little wide when zipped.  The front stands away from my neck, but since I'll never wear it zipped, it's not a big deal. 

Zipper Length:  One note about choosing a zipper.  The envelope suggests an 18-inch zipper for all cup sizes.  This is ridiculous since each cup size increases the length of the seam over the bust.  Fortunately, the only zipper Joann had at the time was a 20-inch zipper and it turned out to be the perfect length.  So if you make this jacket and need a larger cup size, make sure to increase the length of the zipper.

Construction:  Sewing the jacket was pretty straight forward.  My only worry was the vented sleeve with mitred corners.  Since I never did anything like that before, I was nervous.  Hah.  I channeled my inner crafty chemist and just went for it.

I wish I took pictures.  The mitred corners were PERFECT.  My button sewing?  Not so much.  Meh, that's how it goes.
I added my usual light-tailoring techniques:  fused interfacing to whole front, added back stay, and sleeve heads.  I should have interfaced the hems, but I didn't.  They're not as crisp as they can be.  I'll do it next time.

Instructions:  The instructions were fairly straightforward.  If you're sewing the zippered-front version and have attached the lining, skip the foolishness that is this step:

Leave an opening in the jacket hem to turn right side out.  Slipstitch opening.

With other jacket patterns, this (or some variation) makes total sense.  But in this view, the center front and front facing are sewn last with the zipper which leaves a big ass gaping hole for you to turn the jacket right side out.  So much NO. 


Conclusion:  Despite how long it took me to finish the jacket, I enjoyed sewing it and definitely plan to make it again.  It can be worn with jeans or a skirt and I kinda like not having a collar.


In this weirdly tiny photo, the jacket is shown with McCall's 6078 (knit cowl neck top) and New Look 6809 (OOP skirt).

***

These pieces are part of my what-appears-to-be-a-year-long Starting from Scratch wardrobe-building project.  I've made several pieces for the project and will post an update with the completed pieces soon.  I need to make a black tee shirt and that's proving to be way harder than I expected.

Until next time, peace!

L



28 comments:

  1. That jacket turned out pretty good I must say.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Hey that jacket looks great! Enjoy wearing it :-)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Ruthie! It's quite comfortable too.

      Delete
  3. Hee for channeling your inner Crafty Chemist! :)
    It looks great!

    ReplyDelete
  4. Great looking jacket and wonderful news that you are happy with the fit.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I really like it! Something is wonky about the hem, but eh, whatareyagonnado? =)

      Delete
  5. Thats something I could do with as well! Looks great and I am sure you will wear it a lot!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I've worn it a few times already. It will be great for fall wearing too.

      Delete
  6. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

    ReplyDelete
  7. I was just wondering today how your make it from scratch program was going - now I know :).

    The jacket is fantastic - and I find the different companies have a slightly different fit. Always great to work with a pattern that just works - as you say, quite an oversight about the zip length though. A really versatile piece, smart, casual, whatever you want it to be. Love the bright yellow skirt.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Slow like molasses. =) I couldn't decide what to work on for spring, so I switched to fall sewing since I need work clothes most. I started jumping around in the steps, so I actually don't know what I need to make next. Hah!

      I like the jacket a lot and can see another version in the mix soon.

      Delete
  8. Lovely jacket, great basic.

    ReplyDelete
  9. This is jacket love. Nice work! Such a detailed post and quite helpful! Love that itty bitty photo showing the styling!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Terri! I don't know what's up with the mini photo. I will take photos with me wearing the outfit eventually. =)

      Delete
  10. You make the best jackets, seriously! I remember showing my husband that denim jacket you made and he was blown away! Awesome, awesome, awesome!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Awww, thank you Candice! I aim to be stylish and chic like you!

      Delete
  11. You know, I added this pattern to my "to buy" list back when you started on this jacket. Then I took it off because the weather got warmer. Now it's going back on the The List. I'm pretty sure that I need a jacket exactly like yours.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Annnnnnnnd in case anyone else comes across this post and is wondering, this pattern is now OOP. But I was able to buy a copy on Etsy for $4. This is actually the perfect pattern to knock off a RTW jacket that I pinned.

      Delete
    2. I totally dropped the ball on this one! D'oh!!

      This is really a good pattern and I am happy with Simplicity's multi-cup patterns.

      Delete
  12. I love how you paired it with the yellow skirt. Very nice color combination. And thank you for the warning about the zipper length.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you! It was an accident that worked well. I read someone's review on PR that mentioned the same thing.

      Delete

Thanks for commenting! I appreciate and read them all - even if I can not personally respond.

LinkWithin

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...