03 June 2015

Jalie 2919 (cardigan): complete


Because I wasn't happy with my first cardigan, I searched for a suitable replacement.  First I traced the Jalie Cocoon cardi, but didn't have enough fabric.  Then I traced the Jalie Drop Pocket cardi, but decided against it for a reason that I cannot remember.

Finally I settled on the Jalie (I detect a theme) Pleated cardigan and couldn't be happier!  I owe a lot of my squeeeeeee to the fabric as it has the *perfect* drape for this pattern.

Fabric & Notions:
  • 2.5 yards of medium-heavy cotton knit
  • strips of muslin selvedge to stabilize the shoulder seams
  • 80/12 stretch needle for seams; serger to finish seams together

Size & Fit/Alterations:  I used a straight size Z (according to my full bust measurement) and no FBA.  This is my size for bodices using Jalie patterns.  The only drawback is that the shoulder seams are usually too long, which is an easy fix.

Either I have freakishly short arms, or Jalie drafts for people with freakishly long arms.  I removed 2" from the sleeves and could probably remove another inch or two.  In their defense, the knit I used has really awesome drape and pulls everything down.

I also removed three inches in the bodice length.  

The Fabric:  I bought this fabric from that fabric store which shall not be named and immediately questioned my purchase.  The content was supposed to be 90-something % cotton and the rest Lycra, but it was shiny and felt synthetic.  When I did a burn test, it proved to be pure cotton.  Hmm. 

I'm glad I kept it because it proved to work perfectly with this pattern.  I have another piece in gray that I will probably use to make a second version.

Construction:  I sewed the seams on my machine first and then serged them together.  I used a 3.0 straight stitch for both the seams and the tucks.  The stitches appeared to 'get lost' in the fabric; lengthening the stitch solved this problem.

Conclusion:  Love!  

***
This is another garment in my Starting from Scratch wardrobe-building plan.  Here's my progress so far:


Step 1:  nice pair of pants 

I made Kwik Sew 2960 in black rayon-poly-Lycra.

Step 2:  shoes

I have a pair of black semi-comfortable loafers.  I can get about four hours of wear out of them before I have a fit.  Needless to say, I need a better option.

Step 3:  cardigan and tee 

The cardigan is done; I still need the tee shirt.  I had two major failures in this part.  Who would have thought fitting a tee shirt could be so difficult?

Step 4:  jeans and a shirt 

Jeans were made in April and blogged here.  I'm dragging my feet on making the white button-down shirt because...it's white.  I haven't figured out what to use to mark the fabric. Plus, my serger is covered in dark-colored lint and fuzz.  Gotta clean that first before I sew anything white.

Step 5:  accessories round 1 

I have scarves with my colors:  teal, yellow, white, black.  I also have an Olivia Pope-inspired black purse.  I'll fill in more accessories later in process.

Step 6:  accent color tops and scarf

I made a dark teal button-down shirt back in January.  I will raid the stash to see if I have anything in yellow; I'm sure I do.

Step 7:  base in the second neutral
 
In this step, we are to include a pair pants, cardigan, and shoes in the second neutral.  I made two versions of Kwik Sew 2960 in solid dark grey and dark grey herringbone and have a pair of grey flats.  I still need the cardigan.

***

That's it!  There is a point in the steps where all of the possible combinations are pictured.  Once I've completed the missing items, I'll create a collage and post an update.  

More information on Starting from Scratch can be found here:  The Vivienne Files.  NAYY - just a fan of her wardrobe plans.

Until next time, peace!

20 comments:

  1. I use tailor tacks if I have to

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I tried making tailor tacks once. They didn't stay in and I quickly realized I didn't have the patience to try again. =) I might have to, though, on the white shirt because there's no way to mark the fabric without making a mess.

      Delete
  2. This looks so good!!! I can't wait to see everything put together!

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  3. Nice!

    I mark whites using a Chakoner chalk marking tool with yellow chalk. It's visible enough to see, but easy enough to brush off when you don't need it anymore.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you!

      I considered getting a chaco liner pencil, but when I read the reviews I was discouraged; some had difficulty removing certain colors. I'll check out Chakoner. Where did you get yours?

      Delete
  4. These are some nice pieces. I don't know about you, but I can't have enough cardigans.

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    Replies
    1. Thank you Dorothy! I am starting to love cardigans again. I wore them often in college, but stopped for some reason.

      Delete
  5. I like both your cardi's but this one is wonderful. Love the length of it.

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    Replies
    1. Thank you Faye! I'll have to get a pic wearing it.

      Delete
  6. Your cardigan looks fantastic and did I miss something it is a cotton knit or cotton woven?

    Look forward to seeing your garments together, the pieces so far look great.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Sharon! It's a strange cotton knit. It's heavy, yet fluid.

      Delete
  7. what about the Jalie shrug?? Nudge nudge hint hint....
    (Also the sleeves on the Jalie shrug are long too, I cut about a inch to an inch and a half off of them). :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. LOL. I've thought about that shrug pattern after seeing your versions. I don't know if it's the right look for me. Hmm...

      So Jalie drafts for really long arms. It's not the first pattern where I had to shorten the sleeves considerably.

      Delete
  8. This is a going to be a great mini wardrobe. The cardigan looks lovely - I'm assuming that this one also looks good on you :). Good luck with the shoe hunt - I find it difficult to get comfy shoes as well. And bras. Maybe we should start making both??

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    Replies
    1. Tee-hee. Yes, this one looks far better than the first one. When I get a new camera (sigh), I'll get some pictures.

      I'm all in for trying to make bras. Shoes? Nah. I'll leave that to the pros. =)

      Delete
  9. Wow! This looks so cool, L!
    So, you use size Z and change shoulders.. Intriguing idea that I want to copy.What size sleeves do you use?

    Yay! your whole from-scratch wardrobe is coming along great!! Cant wait to see them all together.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Kay!

      I use a straight size Z in the bodice, sleeves, and hips. With knits, I haven't had a problem altering the shoulder length and leaving the sleeve cap alone. As for the jacket pattern (2559), I make the shoulder length alteration at the princess seams by taking deeper seam allowances, tapering to the regular seam allowance in the upper chest. I haven't tried Jalie's woven shirt pattern...yet. =)

      Once I make the white button-down and black tee shirt, I'll put a composite together.

      Delete
  10. Love that cardigan and the colour is so sophisticated.Very nice.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you BeaJay! I wore it yesterday and it was quite comfortable.

      Delete

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