I've been working on a trench coat for the past couple of weeks. Things were going along smoothly and as I neared the finish, this happened:
What. The. What.
Never mind the wonkiness of the sleeves; the lining is attached, but not pulled all the way through.
There is some serious WTFery going on with the front facings and I don't know what to do.
The pattern is BWOF 9-2006-104. I cut size 44 and made a few alterations (to be detailed in a future post). I doubt the alterations have anything to do with the facing issue. I checked and double checked seam lengths etc. before cutting the fashion fabric. I did *not* do an FBA, so there were no substantial changes to the front or front facings.
The shell is 100% cotton twill with no stretch; the lining is 100% silk broadcloth.
When cutting out the fashion fabric, I added the seam allowances right on the fabric. This is what I do with all patterns that don't already have seam allowances. I've not had any problems doing it this way.
However, I did add seam allowances to the lining pieces first since (1) the lining is a slippery silk and (2) it's plaid. I carefully cut each lining piece in a single layer and used a rotary cutter to decrease the risk of shifting.
The shell and lining pieces were definitely cut on grain; I'm a little neurotic about this. I may cut corners in other areas of sewing, but not with establishing and matching the grain.
The hem is supposed to be 1.5 inches. So, I removed 1 inch from the lining pattern pieces with the intention of bagging the lining and having a o.5-inch jump pleat for a bit of vertical ease. (Edited to add: Actually the jump pleat will be slightly less than 0.5 inches due to sewing the lining to the hem. The pleat will probably measure about 0.25 inches.)
To attach the facing to the front, I folded the facing back, right sides together, and stitched across the facing 1.5 inches from the bottom. When I turned the facing right side out, this is what I get on both sides:
The front facing length is the same as the front length. I figured I could trim the extra bit off after the facing was attached (as shown below). Do you see the bubble? I don't understand what went wrong. When I removed the horizontally-sewn stitches, the bubble disappeared.
I thought that perhaps I measured something incorrectly and "added" the cut piece back by doing a little surgery.
The bubble is still there.
I thought about this a lot after taking and staring at the photos. I think something may be fishy about the lining-facing seam. The last two photos are when the jacket is "at rest," i.e., without me holding it.
Could this be the source of the weird front pulling?
I am confident I shortened the front lining piece 1". I checked the pattern piece and see the notation. The strange thing is this lining piece seam is the same length as the facing piece seam which WAS NOT shortened. I know I shortened it because the other lining seam length matches the side front seam length. That wouldn't have been the case if I hadn't made the alteration.
Any suggestions?? Pleeeeeeeease. I put a lot of work into this coat and am not ready to give up. I have more of the fabric to cut new facings, but I don't have any more lining and can't get any more.
I was two minutes away from sewing the buttonholes, but I was worried about how they would sew with the weird pulling in the facing.
I unpicked all of the topstitching and "unbagged" the lining so that I can get this right.
I really appreciate any ideas or help you can give!