11 December 2015

BWOF 4-2009-101 (skirt) & NL 6407 (top): Complete


Yaaay!  Notwithstanding the BWTF instructions, the skirt turned out nicely!  Sewing it wasn't as bad as I initially thought.  Plus it's super comfortable to wear.  Score!
 
Fabric & Notions
  • 1.125 yards of black and white wool tweed (stash)
  • 1.125 yards of black Bemberg Ambiance lining (stash)
  • strips of fusible interfacing for the zipper area
  • 7" invisible zipper
  • petersham for waist facing
  • two metal buttons
  • 80/12 needle for shell
  • 70/10 microtex needle for lining
  • regular sewing and serger thread
Size and Pattern Alterations:  I traced and cut size 44.  The only alteration I made was the standard 1.25" full seat adjustment.  The skirt back has two pieces:  center and side.  I added 1.25" in length across the entire center back and added the same length to the side back, tapering to zero at the side seam.

Here you can see that the back hangs lower than the front.  When worn, the view from the side shows a level hem.  If you have a badonkadonk, this alteration is a must!  Aside from this, I made no other changes.

Instructions:  For such a simple design, the instructions for attaching the yoke made zero sense.  I played around with the pieces for a bit and used Sharon's wonderful tutorial to attach it successfully.  

 
The buttons are not functional as I didn't see the need.  The skirt has a side seam zipper, so why make buttonholes?

I don't know how the inside was supposed to be finished.  The pattern has a back facing (cut on the fold) and two front facings.  Again, this makes absolutely no sense.  In the picture above, the back facing and one side facing would extend from the right front princess seam (left facing in the photo) around to the side seam zipper.  Fine.  But what about this other facing piece?  It's too big to fit in the space between the zipper and left front princess seam (right facing in the photo).  

Seriously.  What?

I didn't bother with the facings and just finished the waist with petersham.  It isn't as sturdy as I would like, but it's finished and holds well enough to wear.

 side seam:  back on left; front on right

 front

  close up of side front

 invisible zipper

Sewing/Lining:  Sewing was pretty  straightforward.  I underlined the entire skirt because I wasn't sure how to attach the lining with the front yoke piece.  If I had devoted some time to thinking about it, I'm sure I would have figured it out. =)  I was so over the whole yoke thing that I just wanted to skirt done.  In the end, I like that the underlining gives the fabric some heft since the tweed was a little on the thin side.

Once the lining was basted in place, I serged the raw edges and stitched as normal.  All seams are pressed open.  

Conclusion:  This pattern is a nice take on an a-line skirt..  I don't have any immediate plans to make it again, but I can see one or two more in the rotation; maybe out of linen for summer.

***

As for the New Look top, there's nothing new to show here. =)  I started this top back in August and finally finished it a few days ago.  The fabric is stretch cotton poplin from the stash.

Man, stretch cotton poplin is right up there with rayon challis in its evilness.  I like the shirt, but it's as stiff as a board, loves to attract lint, and wrinkles like crazy.  I'll wear it, but I don't think it'll be in the regular rotation as much as my other versions.  The only thing that's saving this from being a wadder is the interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply.  That stuff is stiff too, but you get nice crisp collars and cuffs from using it.  Stretch cotton poplin, you have met your match.
 
***
 
Currently, I'm working on my second try at the Burda trench skirt.  Yes, there is a "trench skirt."  

This early-year wadder was due to fabric choice.  I had a lovely light grey twill that would have been perfect for a jacket.  As a skirt, it's just too heavy.  Here's a sneak peak of the next version:


I have to finish the waist, hem, and buttonholes.  More details soon!

Until next time, peace!

L  

   

23 comments:

  1. Nice skirt! I'm glad it turned out well in the end.

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    Replies
    1. Thank you Valerie! I'm happy with it as well.

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  2. I love this outfit! It looks so good on you.

    And I am digging the trench skirt. What a cool design. I love the pleats (?) and buttons! Can't wait to see the finished version.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you!

      I have a lot of work to do this weekend, but I hope to finish it soon so that I can wear it this week. Yes, there are pleats!!

      Delete
  3. Looks like your mojo is back, yay! Your new skirt is very cute.

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    Replies
    1. Thanks Kyle! The mojo ebbs and flows in the worst way. =)

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  4. Love your skirt. It's cute and fits you perfectly!

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  5. Replies
    1. You know I love me some skirts. LOL. Thanks Faye!

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  6. Way cute skirt, L. Looking forward to seeing your trench skirt : )

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    Replies
    1. Thanks James! I'm looking forward to seeing the trench skirt too. Hah!

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  7. Cute skirt! And yes, cotton poplin is evil. I've learned to not bother with it unless it's a print and can hide some of the inherent puckering, etc.

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    Replies
    1. Man cotton poplin is just awful! I have so much of it too. Ugh.

      Delete
  8. It is a great little skirt and yours looks very smart. Agree cotton poplin is evil but the fit of your top looks spot on.

    A trench skirt, that is something I look forward to seeing.

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    Replies
    1. Thanks Sharon! I'm almost finished with the skirt. I ran into some issues with sewing and had to pick things apart. I hope to post the review soon.

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  9. Excellent inside finishing work, looks good on you too :-)

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  10. Lovely dress. I think your choice of fabric is pefect. Amazing pattern making.

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  11. Yayyyy! Wonderful results for all that effort!! Rock on, girl!

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Thanks for commenting! I appreciate and read them all - even if I can not personally respond.

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