29 December 2015

BWOF Trench Skirt: Complete

 (Thanks for taking the photos Anne!)
BWOF 8-2009-107
Fabric & Notions:
  • 2 yards light-weight black denim (stash)
  • fusible weft interfacing (self-facing and belt)
  • 8 7/8-inch buttons
  • regular, serger, and topstitching thread
  • petersham for waist facing
  • 80/12 universal needle
  • 100/16 topstitching needle

Size/Alterations:  I traced and cut a straight size 42.  I shortened the skirt 1" and did not add a hem allowance.  I also added 2" to the front facing.  I read a comment about the front panel not being wide or structured enough to accommodate both rows of buttons. 

I didn't do my usual full seat adjustment and I don't know why.  Hmm.

The skirt is actually too small.  When I first attempted this pattern earlier in the year, I was a several pounds lighter.  Oops.  The buttons look off-center because the panel doesn't end where it's supposed to.


It's not too visible in this picture, but trust me, the side seams are not where they're supposed to be.  If I lose a few pounds, I'll re-sew the buttons so that the front panel is more centered.

The belt buckle came from the stash.  I think I bought it at the American Sewing Expo a few years ago.  It's black with a white frame and fits the skirt perfectly! 

Instructions:  The instructions aren't that bad. The pocket instructions are a little weird, but makes logical sense if you follow them carefully.  The only thing I didn't like is the placement of the pocket bag.  On the pattern, you're supposed to place the bag so that it meets a marked line on the pleat.


This means that the pocket bag would overlap the top of the pleat area.  When I first sewed the pocket this low, I couldn't get the pleat or pocket to press without showing an unsightly hump.  Yeah no.  Moving the pocket up an inch solved that problem.  



Construction Notes:  Sewing was time consuming but pretty straightforward.  I set up two sewing machines:  one for sewing the seams and the other for topstitching.  

The design called for diagonal topstitching on the front and back above the pleat.  If I were doing tone-on-tone topstitching, then this would have been okay.  But with contrasting thread, it looked weird... 


 ...especially on the back.


It's like my butt is in a frame or something and the skirt is saying, "butt is right here".  I removed the diagonal topstitching and settled for bar tacks instead.  Now the skirt is saying, "butt is in the general area."  I can live with that.


I really like the bar tacks on the front.

The instructions say to topstitch 3/8" from the edge.  Later, you're to edge stitch through all layers to keep the flap in place.  I found it impossible to do this with thick topstitching thread and settled for black regular thread.

I finished the waist with 1.5-inch black petersham, steam-shaped to fit the waist.  Since the front panel is self-faced, I ended the petersham just inside the fold to reduce bulk.


Conclusion:  Winner!  This is a pretty distinctive style, so I probably won't make it again any time soon.  I wore it today and felt very comfortable.


***

Up next:  I have all kinds of ideas running around my mind right now.  I really need to work on making more tops.  I have plenty of bottoms, but nothing to wear with them.  

I also want to make more dresses.  I make lots of separates, but rarely do I make dresses.  I see such cute stuff made by other folks and I want in!

I'll do my 2015 sewing in review soon.  I need to put the collage together and write the post. Until next time, peace!

L

24 comments:

  1. Oh I knew it would be awesome but yeah...I love it. It's like a stand out that manages to be a lovely classic. It's so, so nice.

    And SCORE on that belt buckle! Stashing for the win!

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    Replies
    1. Aww thank you! The stash comes through sometimes. =)

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  2. This is such a cool skirt and love the matching bucket on the belt. It looks great on you too! I think it was worth the time and effort, don't you?!

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    1. Absolutely! There was much unpicking on this one but totally worth it. Thanks Carolyn!

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  3. Great skirt and topstitching. I agree about the topstitching on the back of the skirt too--your version is MUCH better!!!

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    1. Thanks Kyle! I like the bar tacks way better than the butt frame. =)

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  4. Gorgeous skirt! I love it! And yeah, I definitely agree with switching from butt frame to bar tacks on the topstitching.

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    1. I might rename my blog "From butt frame to bar tacks". LOL Thanks Michelle!

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  5. this is a really nice dress very unusual and such a good match with the belt

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    1. Thank you Louise! When searching for the buttons, I forgot to get the belt buckle. I found this one in the stash and went for it. Love!

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  6. I'm glad you are back with us, miss your posts. This is a great skirt - smart, casual, and chic. And fully agree with the butt statements.... And even though you have moved buttons for temporary reasons, it is not noticeable - and is also the beauty of a wrap skirt :).

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    1. Thanks Sarah Liz. My energy has been way down and when that happens I don't sew. No sewing, no blogging. =) I hope to be posting more frequently.

      I see one button is slightly lower than the other, so I'll definitely resew that.

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  7. The skirt looks good on you and the back bar tacks are much better than the other option!

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    1. Haha, thanks Valerie. "Butt frame" is not a look I'm trying to rock. =)

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  8. Thank you for making me laugh. I love the way you narrate your blog. Having seen this beautiful skirt in person, (yes, lucky me) I agree that it is a winner. It is so striking with the contrasting topstitching that I doubt anyone who sees it isn't wondering where you found it. I love the before and after pictures of the bar tacks. What a great design improvement!

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    1. You're welcome! I'm glad you enjoy the crazy. =)

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  9. Beautiful skirt. It really does resemble a trench coat. I would know about the side seams unless you told me. Great skirt.

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    1. Thank you Andrea! I love the trench style. It's a timeless classic that looks good on everyone.

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  10. Love your skirt. All the detailing and topstitching make it special. It looks great on you!

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    1. Thanks Tomasa! I love me some topstitching. =)

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  11. Okay now this is the stuff! I think every sewist should have one of these in her wardrobe...from the buttons to the belt and all in between - not to mention that classic trench topstitching! PURE LOVE! Nice work!

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    1. LOL. Thanks Terri!! I love the trench style. I'm eyeing a trench dress as we speak. Hmmmmm....

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  12. Your skirt is beautiful! It looks stunning on you! Is it wrong to love the fabric you used for the pocket bags?? So well done!

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  13. I knew this would look great on you! The skirt turned out awesome and is so cute on you!

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Thanks for commenting! I appreciate and read them all - even if I can not personally respond.

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