26 October 2015

From Wadder to Wearable

About those Vogue pants...

I did something that I rarely, if ever, do.  I picked the entire garment apart, save for the zipper, pockets, and back princess seams.  Okay, so not the entire garment...but still.

o_O

Proof!  You can even see the picked serger threads.
I don't sew enough as it is.  To pick apart and re-sew something in which I have little interest is breaking new ground.  For real!  I have a huge bag full of 'meh' and UFOs ready to be donated to whoever wants to use the scraps.

Why did I do it this time?  I figured that with the wonderful suggestions left in the comments, I would have to cut another muslin and check the fit.  Why bother with that when I already have a 'meh' garment headed to the donation pile? 

So there I sat, picking every serger and sewing machine stitch whilst watching Project Runway's Edmund piss away his dreams on a red carpet hoochie dress.  Bruh!

I digress.


Before and after:


I still have some tweaking to do, but this is miles better than before. The after picture (on the right) has some whiskers on the front because the waistband isn't attached.

Vogue 9032 has waaaaay less fullness below the hip.  Below is a comparison of the pieces:

 center back; upper and lower halves
 9032 on top of 2921

I don't know why the pattern in the second piece looks crooked.  I didn't press the pattern pieces (bad sewer), so maybe that's contributing to the optical illusion.  I was surprised to see the depth of the crotch curve on 9032.

 side back; upper and lower halves
2921 on top of 9032

I placed 2921 on top of 9032 to see the difference in hip curve.  2921 is essentially a chunky rectangle with no regard for curvy hips.  This style may look good on other figures, just not on mine.  In the picture on the right, the lower half could stand to lose more width.

 front
9032 on top of 2921
The difference in width is drastic and starts almost immediately below the crotch line.  I removed all of that nonsense.


I took off the pattern first, and then laid the pattern on top of the pants and trimmed away the excess.

I only made changes to the front to check the fit.  I'll unpick the back princess seams and trim away some more fullness.  I noticed that the back inseam swings to the front because the front hem length is shorter than the back - which means the back hem is too wide.

Going forward, I will use the front of 2921 and the back from 9032.  I suppose I could use either waistband, so I'll likely cut both and see which one gives the best fit.

I hereby dub this frankpattern Vogue 2932.  See what I did there? =)

Because I cannot seem to work on just one project at once, I am in the middle of another version of BWOF 8-2005-102 out of a navy blue wool.  I'll finish that first before resuming work on the pants.

Thank you everyone for offering suggestions.  I think this may be a TNT.

Until next time, peace!

L










22 October 2015

Vogue 2921: Wadder

I've been searching for some pants with back princess seams similar to Vogue 9032.  Why not use Vogue 9032 you say?  Because angled side pockets have NEVER looked good on my hips.  Ever - not even 20 years and 50 pounds ago.
Vogue 9032

So when I happened upon OOP Vogue 2921 at the 2015 MPB Day pattern swap, I was elated!  My butt-princess seam pant pattern search was over.

Vogue 2921

Except no.  Big no. The cut of these pants is WAAAAAY too wide or something.  Only now after having looked at the line drawings do I realize that the cut is completely different.  V9032 appears to hug the hips more gracefully and taper at the hem.  The legs on V2921 are like stovepipes.

I started with a size 16 and have removed a considerable amount of width from the inseam, outseam, and princess seam.  The result?  Not good.



The photos are overexposed to show the detail/twist/WTFery.

I'm sure I cut everything on grain, so the twist that's happening from the knee down is probably from taking out so much width.  I don't think starting with a smaller size will help either.

This is actually my third time attempting this pattern.  The first time was a muslin that looked promising.  For the second attempt, I used rayon-poly-lycra suiting and it was a MESS.  The current pair is made from a lightweight wool suiting that I picked up from my recent splurge at my local non-profit art store (gotta blog about this latest haul!).

I could take all of the extra stitching out to retain the original width.  But then it looks like I'm all pants and nothing else.

I wonder if I can somehow trace the front of 2921 onto the front of 9032.  I'm hesitant to use the complete front of 2921 because of the leg shaping.  Hmm...

Any thoughts?  I could cut the legs off at the knee and make knickers.  But then I know I would never wear them! =)

L

 

10 October 2015

Siimplicity 2284 & the Sewing Bee

I cannot express enough the awesomeness that is Simplicity 2284.


The back isn't this wrinkly.  I took these pictures after a long day at work.

I first made this jacket back in May and wear it often.  I don't know how many zipper-front jackets I need, but I wouldn't mind making two or three more! 

My favorite part is the sleeve vent.  The buttons...I LOOOOOVE the buttons!


I found these a few years ago at an independent craft store that's been around since I was little.  The buttons are glass and the same color as the fabric. 

I added my usual tailoring techniques:  back stay, fully interfaced front and hems, and sleeve heads.  

 

Sewing lining is always a MAJOR pain for me.  Slippery fabrics and I just don't bond well and this jacket almost didn't get finished because of said slipperiness.

As I was cutting out the back lining, the fabric must have shifted, and as a result, this happened:

O_o  
Damn slippery fabric.

There was no way to fudge this either because the sleeve notches were off by more than an inch.  I ended up fusing a scrap of lining to the edge of the back and re-cutting this area.  Hopefully it will hold up.  I *could* have cut a new back lining piece, but since I was pressed for time, I had to improvise.

I added piping between the lining and facing.  I like this little detail and can see it being worked into all of my jackets.  Maybe I'll try making my own with bias striped fabric.  Hmm.


This pattern is definitely a TNT.  

***

So about the sewing bee.  Although I didn't make it to the final round, I'm glad I participated and made it as far as I did.  September sewing usually takes a huge hit with school starting, so the contest forced me to make time to sew.  Here are the garments I made:

Round 1 - fitted blouse

 New Look 6407

Round 2 - embellished fabric

 Jalie 2908

Round 3 - lined jacket

 Simplicity 2284
(top:  Simplicity 2599, skirt:  BWOF 1-2015-109)

I like what I made and am sure they will all get lots of wear.

The Round 4 challenge is to create a look for a 2016 Olympic competitor.  Ummmmm...yeah.  Big fail on my end.  Though I think it would be interesting to do the research on how to make something like this, I am not upset to be watching from the sidelines!

***

Up next?  Regular stress-less sewing.  I started working on another version of New Look 6407 at the beginning of September and am in the process of cutting out a pair of pants using Vogue 2921 (OOP).  

Until next time, peace!

L
 
 

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