14 May 2016

Complete: Jalie 3130 (shirt)


No on-the-body pics yet; I will take some soon.

In theory, I really like this pattern and the shirt.  In practice, however, there are a few major errors that will likely not make this a regularly-worn item.   

Fabric & Notions:
  • 2 yards cotton/linen chambray (stash)
  • pro crisp fusible shirt interfacing (from Pam Erny)
  • 10 shell buttons (stash)
  • regular sewing and serger thread
  • 80/12 universal needle
The issues:

Size:  Jeanne (founder of Jalie) recommends one pick the pattern size according to the full bust measurement.  Having been measured by her in the past, she suggested that I always use a size Z (B41-W35-H44).  My favorite jacket pattern (Jalie 2559) is made in size Z and fits beautifully with little to no adjustments.  (The only thing I do is narrow the shoulders by sewing a deeper seam when attaching the side front and front panels).  So I thought a size Z would work in this pattern.  Yeah, no.

The first issue is that the size Z is way too big in the waist and hips.  I had to take near inch seam allowances below the bust just to make this not look like a sack.

The second issue is that the size Z isn't quite big enough at bust level.  What I should have done was cut according to my high bust measurement and make an FBA.  

The FBA I would need isn't large, maybe 5/8" or so.  But still, it's definitely needed.  There is terrible gaping at bust level and weird pulling above the bust.  This brings me to the next problem...
 
Buttonhole spacing:  I totally screwed this up.  When I mark buttonholes, I place one at bust level first, and then space the rest accordingly.  This was a huge fail.
 
 
I don't know what happened, but the bust-level button is in the wrong place and I neglected to include a button on the collar stand.  My dress form is a little smaller than me, so it doesn't look too bad in this photo.  But on me, it's terrible.  There is unsightly gaping at bust level - the kind that definitely needs a safety pin.  Ugh!  I'll probably never wear the top buttoned.
 
Vertical & horizontal darts:  I know full well that I need to use princess seams, but I decided to give the darts a try anyway.  Big ol' nope.  This pattern definitely has promise, but it won't be realized until I convert those darts to princess seams.  I plan to make this again because it has good bones, but I will take the time to do it right.

Seam finishes:  The directions make no mention of how to finish the seams.  Definitely think about this before cutting out the pattern.  Since the sleeves are rolled up, whatever seam finish you use will be visible on the outside.


 Of course, I didn't realize this until after I started assembling the sleeves.  The seam allowance was only 3/8" so there wasn't even enough room to try french seams.  Ah well.  Next time, I'll add 1/4" to the sleeve seams (at least) so that I get a better finish on the outside.

Pockets & full bust:  I've read plenty of commentary about chest pockets and a full bust.  The resounding opinion is to avoid them at all cost.  Well, I ignored this and sewed them anyway. =)  On the dress form and on me, they don't look too bad, though I might bring them a little closer to the center front next time.

Collar stand:  I'm getting better at attaching the collar stand.  I used this tutorial which works quite well.  My topstitching on the outside, though, is a hot mess.  I'm glad the collar is big enough to hide it!


Collar points:  I'm also trying to improve my point-turning skills.  I tried Pam Erny's tutorial on making perfect collar points. 


With more practice, I think this will be my go-to method for collar points.  I still have some work to do, but this is the pointiest collar I've made so far.

***
Everything went together smoothly.  All of the notches matched and there were no issues with the pattern or instructions.  The issues were all user error!

I will get some pictures of me wearing the shirt next week.  It's really a good pattern and I can see making it a few times - once I've fixed the bust area.

Up next:  I'm working on Simplicity 1199, view D (second version modeled).

 This is a new style for me, so we'll see how it goes.  I didn't make a muslin either.  Hah!

Until next time, peace!
 
L

8 comments:

  1. Thank you for your post. I have the same issues with button up shirts and don't want everything with princess seams. Look forward to your next shirt. I am sorry that this one is nearly there for you. Love the fabric.

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    Replies
    1. Thank you Janet. I don't want to always use princess seams either, but I think it will be necessary.

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  2. I hate that this shirt didn't work out for you. It's really, rather cute. I love, love the fabric. I know you will get it worked out for your liking on the next go. And thanks for pointing out the Simplicity shirt pattern, I don't think I've seen this one. I love the back detail. It reminds me of one of the new indie patterns from the back. I forget the name of the pattern,lol!

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  3. I agree with everyone, I really like this top and I'm very sorry that it wasn't just right for you! Knowing you, I bet the next one will be right on point and you should definitely make this one again! I have not seen this simplicity pattern before and I'm really anxious to see how it works for you because I'd love to make one myself! Especially the view of the black-and-white striped version with the back detail, I just adore that version! Again, thanks for the review I think I have to run out and get that get that pattern!

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  4. What a bummer that this didn't work out the way you wanted. You can still get some use out of it by wearing it open with a nice tank top or other top underneath. I know your next one will be fabulous!

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  5. I admire that you are sewing, and continuing to improve with each garment! I think the shirt looks great, sorry it didn't work out for you! You definitely learned a lot for when you sew it again.

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  6. What a shame that the shirt didn't work, but can you be creative adding more buttons so that you can stop the gaping and add a bit of twist?

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Thanks for commenting! I appreciate and read them all - even if I can not personally respond.

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