15 June 2016

Knipmode 06-2016-20 (skirt): complete

I can't remember if I first saw this skirt on Westmoon's blog or on PR (maybe in a thread started by Westmoon).  But when I saw it, I knew I had to have it.




Look at all the seams!  Maybe I shouldn't be this excited over a pencil skirt, but I am.  Topstitching and color-blocking potential?  What's not to like?

Getting an copy of this magazine took some effort.  While in Europe recently, I visited newsstand after newsstand in each city and could not find it anywhere.  In fact, I didn't see any Knipmode, MyImage, or La Mia Boutique magazines.  It was only during the layover in Amsterdam and after a 15 minute hike through different parts of Schiphol Airport did I *finally* find a bookstore that carried it.  I hugged the magazine like it was MY PRECIOUS.


The results...


Not too shabby.  I like it...buuuuuuut...it's too big.  I fault myself for not fully trusting the measurements and the stretch of my denim.  I've not sewn with a Knipmode pattern before (despite having a few magazines) and was not familiar with their draft.  The skirt is wearable, but I will always need a belt.

Fabric & Notions:
  • 1.375 yards of stretch denim (stash)
  • strips of interfacing for the center front zipper
  • stretch interfacing for the other waistband (probably not needed)
  • 20" separating zipper
  • sewing machine, topstitching, and serger thread
  • 80/12 universal and 100/16 topstitching needles
Sizing/alterations:  I traced a straight size 44 based on my hip measurements.  I added 1" seam allowances to the side seams and 2" to the center front.  I also made a 1.25" full seat adjustment - a standard for me with skirts.

The pattern is designed for stretch bottomweights and I should have used this fact when picking a size.  I ended up sewing 1.5" seam allowances and also removed the extra 2" from the center front.  Next time, I will take flat pattern measurements and proceed from there.  

Instructions:  Since the magazine is in Dutch, I consulted good ol' Google Translate for help.  For the most part, the instructions aren't really needed.  The seams are labeled with letters and general construction makes sense.  

The only part of the instructions that was confusing involved attaching the waistband.  If the translation was correct, you were supposed to attach one front waistband to one back waistband and then sew this to the completed skirt.  Whut? 

Yeah I didn't do that.  I did this: 
  1. Assembled the front and back completely.
  2. Attached interfaced outer back waistband to skirt back.
  3. Attached interfaced outer front waistband to skirt front.
  4. Installed zipper in skirt front.
  5. Basted side seams to check fit.
  6. Sewed side seams.
  7. Assembled inner waistband (front and back).
  8. Attached to outer waistband.
  9. Understitched.
  10. Topstitched.

 
Sewing:  I used my usual 3-machine hook up for sewing, serging, and topstitching.  I interfaced the zipper area for stability.  Hmm...what else?  That's it really.  I paid attention to the modeled version to determine the direction in which to press the angled seams.  Aside from that, sewing this skirt wasn't difficult.

I'm happy with the skirt and will certainly wear it.  If I make it again, I'll consider the sizing more carefully.  

I wonder how this would look in a stripe.  Hmmmm...

***

The Epic Abbey Coat by Jamie Christina is coming along quite well.  I am now working on the sleeves and I admit I am nervous.  I've never done a continuous lap before and my fabric is t h i c k.  

I think I can finish the coat in time to submit it for the Natural Fibers Contest on PR. I need to face my fear and just do the friggin' sleeves.

L



 



18 comments:

  1. That's a great skirt Lynn. So glad you found the magazine.

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    Replies
    1. Thanks Faye! I'm glad I found the magazine too; there are several good patterns in it.

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  2. Very interesting skirt! Nice fit.

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  3. Love your skirt! I think yours is so much better than the inspiration photo with the wonky zipper. Your zipper is perfect and the topstitching is beautiful. Great job!

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    1. Thank you! Haha, yes the zipper on the model is pretty wonky. I get wrinkling when I walk, but not when standing still. I guess some amount of wrinkles is expected, but the cover seems excessive.

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  4. Replies
    1. Thank you! How are you?? I will email you soon!

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  5. Nice and I LOVE DENIM ... FIESTA ;)

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    Replies
    1. Hah! Denim is my comfort food. =)

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  6. Love this skirt and all the top stitching details!

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  7. It's so good. SO GOOD. Really beautiful work!
    You're my top-stitching she-ro. And my heart is warmed by your determination to track that magazine DOWN and make it your own! :)

    And yeah, I would probably not even look at instructions for this because my mind would say to do it just as you've done. I too like to assemble whole fronts and backs (with skirts, dresses, pants...) and baste/fit the side seams.

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    Replies
    1. LOL topsttitching she-ro! Thank you. =)

      Man I was on a MISSION let me tell you! I was hungry and had about 45 minutes to find food and/or the magazine. Food lost. I was mad sweating when I got to the gate!

      As for the instructions, I saw no benefit to attaching the front and back waistband at the side seam. Fitting at the sides makes so much more sense.

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  8. This skirt is certainly an L skirt - love it. And how amazing that you managed to find the magazine...

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  9. Fantastic skirt, love all the seams, not sure I will find a Knipmde here :(

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    Replies
    1. Thank you Sharon! Sometimes Knipmode releases its magazine patterns for sale online as PDFs. I don't think this skirt is available though. It was hard to find Knipmode in surrounding countries in the EU! Burda, however, was everywhere. =)

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Thanks for commenting! I appreciate and read them all - even if I can not personally respond.

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