29 October 2016

Goings On

Long time, no post.  The start of the school semester is always busyPlus, I'm also having a hard time and the stress is taking its toll on me.  Sewing happensBlogging, not so much.

I managed to finish three of the four items from my "upcoming sewing plans" list.  The fourth item is in progress.  Win!

McCall's 6654 (knit skirt) & Simplicity 1072 (knit top)

For the top, I cut a straight 16 and shortened the sleeves two inches.  I didn't do any other adjustments and the fit is okay.  The top is rather boxy, so I nipped it in at the waistline at around 0.75 inches, tapering to nothing at the armhole and hip to give more shape. 

The good

Sewing sequins wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be.  Both my sewing machine and serger handled the fabric well.  I used a 70/10 microtex needle in the machine, regular needles in the serger, and sewed slowly.

Since the sequin knit was sheer and scratchy, I underlined it with black jet set (from Joann Fabrics).  Once the two fabrics were hand-basted, I treated the whole unit as one during construction.

The pattern calls for the neckband to be made of the body fabric.  Since I used ponte, there was no way the neckband was going to have enough stretch and recovery to sit flat/flush against my neck.  So I used black cotton rib knit for the neckband, hem band, and sleeve cuffs.  I cut the ribbing 80% of the neckline circumference, without seam allowances and stretched to fit.  I've done this before on previous necklines and found that it works well. 

The bad

In some serged areas, the sequins poke out from behind the knit lining and cause awful chafing.  I need to think of a way to bind this area to prevent the irritation.  Otherwise, I could never wear this top without a turtleneck. 

The meh

I added sleeve cuffs, but I don't think they're wide enough.  Eventually, I will cut off the cuffs and make new ones that are wider to balance with the hem band.  But for now, meh.


The skirt was a an easy and quick sew.  The only thing different with this version is the length.  It is about two inches longer than the others and I am not quite sure why.  I used the exact same pattern pieces.  Hmm...

McCall's 6884 (knit dress)

Originally, I was going to make NL6301.  After making an FBA and a bunch of other pattern adjustments, I chickened out because I wasn't confident in how I redrew the pleats.  Instead, I opted for the simplicity of M6884.

I cut size 16 and did not make an FBA.  I shortened the sleeves 2 inches and made a 2.5-inch hem.  Next time, I'll hem at 1 or 1.5 inches as I think the dress is a tad bit short.  I will also try binding the neckline edge instead of turning under and coverstitching.

I added six inches total to the ties, but they're still not long enough.  On the next version, I will add twelve inches and attach them a bit higher.  The placement dots are too low and cause weird pulling if I pull the ties from back to front.

Burda 7942
I was going to make Simplicity 2599 out of a non-stretch cotton shirting.

But, I wasn't too confident about how the stripes would look on the ruffles and I didn't have enough fabric to cut the ruffles on the bias.  Plus, this fabric leans more blue than grey and didn't quite go with the other fabrics in this mini wardrobe.

So instead I decided to make the Burda pattern, view A.

So far the fit is pretty good.  I cut size 44 and made a 0.5-inch FBA.  I am finally learning my Burda bodice size and am excited to try the MANY other Burda patterns I have.  

There is still lots of work to be done.  I need to sew the side seams (they're pinned in this phot0), attach the continuous lap/cuffs, set the sleeves, hem, and work the buttonholes.  When any of that will actually happen...well...uh...


New Plans

Every once in a while, I get the urge to sew small mini wardrobes.  For some reason, I am feeling the need to coordinate moreNext up is a small five or six-piece set comprising of blues and reds.   

I've already cut another version of New Look 6274 out of this stretch cotton border print.

Eventually, I'll add a few more garments from these fabrics:

 left:  blue floral stretch cotton poplin (skirt)
top (on shelf): navy blue wool suiting (vest)
middle (on shelf): ITY knit (infinity scarf)
bottom (on shelf):  navy/white ponte knit (skirt)
lower shelf:  ITY knit (wrap dress)

Big dreams.  Hah!  That's all for now.  I hope things settle down more, though I am not optimistic. =/

Until next time, peace.



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