You sew, girl!

Jeans 7 & 8: Complete

2012-02-13T22:04:00.002-05:00

I finished my eighth pair of jeans this weekend. I'm all jeans-ed out for now, but I am sure I'll be making more in the near future. The details for these two pair are the same as before - except that I sewed the equivalent of a size U since I lost some weight. The waistbands on both pair are a bit more stretchy than I like, but they're wearable without a belt.

Notions (for each pair):

2 yards of stretch denim (dark blue and very dark blue)
cotton fat quarter for pocket linings
YKK zippers
gold and cream topstitching thread

dark blue with gold topstitching

very dark blue with cream topstitching

On the very dark blue pair, I opted not to include any design on the back pockets. Last May, I made a black pair of jeans with the same non-design. Those jeans are too big now, but since I liked the look I decided to recopy it here. The jeans really are blue, despite how the picture looks.

Up next: I've resumed work on my wool Jalie jacket. Wouldn't you know I've already run into a problem?? The back neck facing is MUCH shorter than the back neck area on the lining. I have no idea how that happened and have to think about it over the next few days.

As always, more later... Until then, be well!

Be at Peace Whitney.

2012-02-12T07:53:00.000-05:00

One Down, One to Go!

2012-02-11T16:44:00.000-05:00

I need to open the button hole and add the tack.

If I work really, really hard (i.e., at all), I should be able to finish by the deadline. Thank goodness! Then I can resume working on my jacket and SWAP.

More later...

Why I Love & Hate Contests

2012-02-05T13:47:00.000-05:00

Contests are an opportunity to focus solely on the challenge presented. There are rules to follow and deadlines to meet. Contests serve as a good motivation to try something new or hone old skills and there's a sense of accomplishment when the contest is completed. The excitement of the start of a new contest brings about creative ideas and the prospects of planning fabric and patterns.

I have come to realize that while contests are fun and challenging, I also hate them. It's not the contest per se, but the feeling that I can't begin other projects until after the contest is over. As a result, I end up rushing to finish a garment and making far more mistakes. Plus, right now I can't help but think of all the new sewing possibilities for Spring. The fact that it's 40 degrees outside...in February...in Mchigan is NOT helping. (What is up with the weather?? I am not at all a fan of the cold, but it should not be this warm in February. My mother's daffodils broke ground last month due to the abnormally mild winter. That is not good!)

Case in point: I am working on two more pairs of jeans for the Jeans Contest. On one pair, I have sewn and unpicked the waistband three times. On the other pair, it took me forever to come up with the simplest back pocket design - and I'm not even a big fan of it. With just over a week to go, I don't even know if I'll finish the contest.

As for the SWAP, I am still committed to finishing, though I am stalled on the jacket. I got the fit to a point where I like it and now I need to insert the lining. The problem is, I neglected to make the same adjustments to the lining pieces when I adjusted the fashion fabric. I only vaguely remember what I did. I usually write these things down as soon as I do them, but didn't this time. I just hope the lining goes in smoothly.

Finally, the Fashion in Detroit show is coming up in a month and I want to make a dress for that. After viewing the comments left on my last post, I've decided on Butterick 5559. There are only three pieces, it's knit, and I should be able to sew it up rather quickly - thus freeing up more time and energy to devote to my SWAP.

I think these will be my last contests for a long time. I might join a sew along or two, but I'm over competitions. Anyone else have experience with contest fatigue?

L

What should I wear?

2012-01-26T11:22:00.000-05:00

Kristine from Just Keep Sewing sent me a link to the Fashion in Detroit runway show coming up in March. This could not have been timed more perfectly as I recently developed the desire to go to glitzy affairs. I don't know where this is all coming from, but for some reason I want to get all dolled up and prettified.

The event with afterglow appears to run from 12p - 9p What do I wear to one of these? Should I plan for fashion show and afterglow with separate garments? I need something relatively quick to make since time will be an issue. I perused my pattern stash and came up with these.


Christine Jonson 630

Butterick 5559

Vogue 1250

Simplicity 2473


Vogue 8379

Fabric choice is important too. The fact that the event spans lunch and dinner makes me think that I have to pick something that works in both settings. Ugh. So many options!

Has it Been Two Weeks?

2012-01-22T09:57:00.001-05:00

Yeesh. It seems like whenever school resumes, not only am I super busy, I am super sick too! Two (yes 2!!) days into the new semester, I came down with a nasty cold. Sore throat, headaches from Hades, and sinus pressure that was unbearable. I went through a box and half of Kleenex. TMI? Sorry. Needless to say, during that time I did not do much sewing. I haven't worked on my jacket since re-setting the sleeves. But now that I'm feeling MUCH better and can comfortably breathe out of both nostrils, I'm back on the sewing block.

Jacket progress:
Since the jeans contest on PR ends on 15 Feb, I decided to postpone construction of the Jalie jacket until after I complete the contest. I need to assemble the lining, sew on the facings and attach it to the garment.

Jeans progress:
I cut the fabric for two more pairs of jeans. I wracked my brain for a two days on how to design the pockets. I've got a couple of ideas, but I don't know if I'll have the time to implement them fully. I really want to return to sewing for the SWAP and since we have midterms coming up soon, time might be an issue.

Two more versions of New Look 6648:
I managed to squeak in two more versions of this top. I *love* this pattern. It's my new go-to option when I need a new top. It's really quick to make and very comfortable to wear. Even though I already had plans to make more versions of this pattern, I moved them up in the queue in response to a comment by one of my friends at the rink. He said, "You're looking good as usual...even in last year's clothes."

O_o

Ummmmmm....thank you? I laughed so hard when he said that, he probably thought I was a lil' cray-cray.

I used rayon jersey for both tops and didn't bother with gathering the lower hem band. Is it me or do I look a little 'storm-trooper-ish' in the first picture? =)

Ugh. I have to grade papers and do a host of other things. If I manage my time right, I can get a lot done before the football games start today. I'm a die-hard Lions fan, but since they're not in the playoffs I'm rooting for the Giants. After they humiliated the Packers last weekend, I want them to go all the way. Part of me wants to see another Giants-Patriots rematch in the Superbowl. Then again, I cannot stand the Patriots and would do a happy dance if they were eliminated by the Ravens.

Until next time, be well!

L

Go on Pres!

2012-01-20T07:18:00.002-05:00

Updates coming soon!

Jalie 2559: Sleeve Heads

2012-01-08T12:19:00.001-05:00

The pattern calls for installing sleeve heads for sleeve cap support. I did this in my Vogue jacket, and recognize the benefits of having this structure in a jacket.

The pattern includes a separate piece for the sleeve head (a 2" bias strip with diagonal edges). According to the instructions, set the sleeve in first and then sew the bias strip (folded in half lengthwise) to the seam allowance of the sleeve cap. I tried this and didn't like the results. While there was some support, the sleeve cap caved significantly. Unfortunately, I neglected to take pictures before removing the sleeve head.

I knew there was a better way to do this, so I referred to Kenneth King's book, Cool Couture. His method not only results in a nicely supported shoulder area, the process of inserting sleeve heads makes setting the sleeve really easy.

Here are the steps:

1. Sandra Betzina and Kenneth King suggest using lamb's wool or mohair, respectively, for the sleeve head. Having neither one of these on hand, I opted for hefty polar fleece. Cut a bias strip measuring 3" by 11" (7.6 cm by 28 cm). I thought 3" was rather ride since on the Vogue jacket, I used a 2" strip. I opted to take the average and cut a 2.5" strip.

2. Anchor the strip to the wrong side of the sleeve cap one inch below one of the notches. Sew a few stitches using a 1/8" seam allowance. I would use a 1/4" seam allowance so that presser foot (or walking foot) has something to grab onto. Hmm. Looking at this photo, I think I may have used a 1/2" seam allowance.

3. Stretch only the strip as much as you can while sewing it to the sleeve cap. This shouldn't require a lot of effort since the fleece is already stretchy and on the bias. Be sure to keep the piece taut and stretched as you sew. Continue stitching until you're about one inch below the opposite notch.

4. Shake the sleeve and watch the ease fall into place. Neither Kenneth nor Sandra suggest a stitch length. I used a regular stitch length (2.5 mm) on one sleeve and a basting stitch (4.0 mm) on the other. While they both eased relatively the same, I like using the smaller length better. On future jackets, I will use a length of 3.0. This way, I have the benefits of both a secure stitch and longer stitch for adjusting ease.

5. Pin the sleeve into the armhole right sides together. Basting stitches aren't needed since the ease has already been removed by the bias strip.

Voi-la! This is the pucker-free finished product! These pictures are of the sleeve before steaming the cap into shape. I think it looks pretty good!

Ugh! I can totally see my pattern alteration error in the back. Hopefully it's not too noticeable while I'm wearing it. I've put in too much time and fabric to scrap this project now. This jacket will be completed!

********
Since writing this post several days ago, I've removed both sleeves and opened up the front and back princess seams and the center back seam. There was just too much width in these areas. Looking at these pictures now I can totally see where the back of the jacket is too wide. I took about 1/2" out by sewing 1/4" in from the existing seam lines. I also removed some width from the bicep to elbow area of each sleeve. The jacket fits much better now. I will make the same changes to the lining pieces and permanently adjust the pattern pieces.

Up next: I need to start working on the lining. I am dreading this part of the project!

L

Jalie 2559: Getting Started

2012-01-05T08:59:00.000-05:00

This is the fourth item of my 2012 SWAP and I'm moving right along with construction. Jalie writes fantastic instructions for their patterns. Not only are the instructions thorough and easy to read, the drawings are amazingly clear. Unfortunately, I have already had some issues with constructing this jacket.

Preshrinking the Fabric
I should have known that this was going to be a ~~PITA project~~ labour of love when I attempted to preshrink the wool flannel in the dryer. I only meant to leave the fabric in for about 30 minutes. 10 hours and about a yard later, I remembered it was in there. I am almost certain I had at least 3.5 yards. Upon measuring, there was about 2.6 yards left.

Pattern Alterations
Fortunately, what remained was enough to cut out the jacket. While cutting out the main pieces, it occurred to me that I needed to make the same swayback alteration on the lining piece since the pattern includes separate pieces for shell and lining. After staring at the pattern for several seconds, I noticed that I goofed up the swayback adjustment. I took out a wedge of 5/8" from side seam to center back, tapering to nothing at the center back. This is suppose to be done the other way around. I have NO idea what I was thinking when I did this. Since I had already cut out the fashion fabric. there was nothing I could do about it. I just hope that it won't look like too much of a hot mess. As for other alterations, I shortened the sleeve 1.5 inches and that's it! I made a muslin cutting a straight size Z.

Welt Pockets
I had some fears about doing a welt pocket since I had never done one before. I can't emphasize enough how super simple and clear the instructions are. Before cutting into my jacket, I practiced the technique on some wool flannel and cotton flannel scraps.

outside inside

Not bad, eh? Yeah, well. It was pretty bad when I tried to sew the welt pockets for real. Interfaced wool flannel and welt pockets simply do not mix. At. All. There was just too much bulk in the area of the welt to turn under evenly. I stitched and unpicked the welt at least five times - each try never improving in look or feel. I decided to scrap the welt pocket idea after already cutting the jacket open at the pocket line. Determined to save this project, I zigzagged the opening closed and sewed the pocket flap over top. I need to think of a way to keep the pocket flaps from...um...flapping so as to permanently conceal the welt pocket failure. Any suggestions?

I've made more progress on the jacket and will describe how I inserted sleeve heads and set the sleeves in my next update.

Until then, be well!

L

NL6897: 3rd SWAP Garment Completed

2012-01-02T11:37:00.000-05:00

I started sewing garments for the 2012 SWAP on Monday, 26 Dec. Why is that anticipation sometimes leads to no motivation and/or disappointment? I eagerly awaited the start of the contest, only to not feel motivated once it began. What's that about? I thought I would be in my sewing room the whole day. Nope. I was only in there for an hour or so. Anyway, I finished the skirt and will share the details.

Fabric & Notions:

brown wool suiting
7" invisible zipper
camel Ambiance lining
1.5"-wide cream petersham cut to waist measurement plus extra for folding under
fusible interfacing for the zipper area

Sewing this skirt was super simple since I made it twice already. The only change was to take slightly bigger seam allowances. As the notions list above suggests, I used an invisible zipper, inserted a lining, and faced the waist with petersham. I used the techniques described in these two posts: invisible zipper, lining & facing with petersham. I'm glad I took the time to write the second post as I complete forgot how to do this! I had to refer back to this post a couple of times to refresh my memory.

Originally, I included the flounce on this skirt as I did on the first one. Apparently the fabric didn't have the right amount of drape because the flounce stuck out like a shark's fin. Don't ask me why this image popped in my head. What can I say? I grew up in the 80s. (Do you know the origin of this still-shot?)

(new skirt; old skirt)

Yeah...see? That thing had to go. Believe me, it was not cute. I have another wool suiting with far more drape out of which I might sew this pattern again.

I don't know if I'll keep this or not. I don't like how it fits - even though the first two versions fit beautifully. I think the fabric is just too...something. The way it hangs on the dress form is how it hangs on me. Meh. If I have to use this as a last resort, I will. In the meantime, Ive already started looking for something else.

I leave you with the entire video from which that still-shot was taken. If you guessed LL Cool J's I'm Bad video, you get a cookie. Since you are not here to claim your cookie, I'll enjoy it for you. =)

&lt;p&gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;p&amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;p&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;p&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;p&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;br&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;L &amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;br&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;/p&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;/p&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;/p&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;/p&amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&lt;/p&gt;

L

2011 Sewing Year in Review

2011-12-31T11:23:00.000-05:00

Completed Garments
I complied a list of all the garments I sewed this year. While the count seems rather small, I certainly learned a great deal about fitting, styling, and choosing garments that suit my body type. Here are the stats:

11 tops
4 skirts
4 pairs of jeans
3 dresses
1 jacket
1 purse/tote
approximately 35 yards of fabric sewn

Incomplete Garments & Wadders
Reasons for garments rendered incomplete or wadders include poor fabric choice (in content and colour), need-to-refine sewing technique (stupid collar stand), unruly facings, terrible fit, and lack of love for the finished garment. Although these garments will never reach my closet, I learned a lot in the process of their construction.

Top row: S2365, BWOF 09-2009-137

Bottom row: Burda 7866, S2288, NL6300 & fabric

BWOF 09-2009-137 (skirt)
Burda 7866 (knit top)
Simplicity 2365 (woven top with pintucks)
Simplicity 2288 (knit cardigan)
New Look 6300 (woven skirt from TNT pattern)
Simplicity 4698 (jacket)
New Look 6917 (skirt)

Still in Progress

Colette Patterns Lady Grey Coat - Since I am following Gertie's tailoring techniques (as part of her 2010 sew along), this will be an ongoing project. I hope to have it completed in time for Fall 2012.

Jalie 2680 - I want to resume working on this in March - just in time for Spring wearing.

Favourite Garment
It was really hard to narrow down a favourite garment. So I picked the looks that I loved the most.

Vogue 1250

McCall's 6078 (top) with New Look 6897 (skirt)

I received nice compliments on both looks and can see many more versions of each in my regular rotation.

2012 Sewing Intentions

Jeans contest on PR: I love making jeans and this contest is a great way to start off the new sewing year. I already have ideas for the contest.

SWAP contest on Stitcher's Guild: The contest runs through the end of April and if I work hard enough, I should be able to finish it by then, if not before. As the theme centers around fit and developing tried-n-true patterns, I am motivated to follow through with my plans.

Advance to "intermediate": I've been sewing for almost eight years and have definitely learned a lot. If I successfully sew a lined jacket and attach a collar stand to a good-fitting woven blouse, then I will officially consider myself an intermediate-level sewer.

Fabric-light: The fabric fast of 2011 didn't go so well. In the first six months of the year, I bought a lot of fabric (we won't speak on yardages). Fortunately, this trend did not continue in the last half of the year. I have only bought pieces that I really liked and have no interest in buying fabric right now. I will make exceptions for extra special pieces or linings.

Stash sewing: Since I have so much fabric, I intend to sew primarily from my stash.

I thank everyone who takes the time to read my blog. When I started this blog almost five years ago (sorta missed several blogiversaries...), I had no idea that it would last this long and that I'd enjoy doing it so much. I never was good at keeping a diary, but this seems to work for me! Your continued interest and comments are cherished and very much appreciated.

I look forward to another productive sewing year in 2012. I hope to continue sharing my sewing trials and victories with you all and reading about yours as well.

I want to wish everyone a peaceful and wonderful new year filled with hope, happiness, good health, and love. Happy new year!

L

Tying Loose Threads

2011-12-28T16:48:00.007-05:00

Before I post my 2011 sewing in review, I wanted to settle up the sewing for this year.

McCall's 5847
I finally finished the second version of this dress! After hanging in my closet for five months, I attached the final button last week.

Eventually I'll get pictures while wearing the dress. Unless I make a long-sleeved top to go with it, I'm not wearing this until Spring.

Jeans #6
Even though I took this photo a week ago, the jeans have been complete since the beginning of the month. I just wasn't in a mood to smile here.

Simplicity 2396
After cutting out the pieces for another skirt, I had about 5/8-yards left over. Since the piece was oddly shaped and not quite enough to make another skirt, I decided to make a tote bag.

Fabric & Notions:

1/2 yard gray wool suiting
1/2 yard cotton floral print
1/2 yard cotton flannel
fusible interfacing
1" button

The tote/purse was very easy to assemble and wears comfortably on my arm. The only change I would make is to cut the inner top band out of the same material as the outside. The lining is very visible from the outside and I didn't even think about it until after the bag was completed.

Non-sewing bits...

@Kyle: Thanks for the well-wishes. =) EyeCandy was not at the rink on Friday, but he was there on Monday. He's relegated to being eye-candy because he's married. Actually, he's just been demoted to CuteJerk because he's incredibly rude! I was talking with a friend and he rolls up in the middle of us to speak to the guy and shake his hand. I gave him the oh no you didn't look and he rolled away.

@Sheila: You were right. My headache was definitely caused by sinus problems. After speaking with the nurse in my doctor's office, she tried to tell me it was a migraine. I told her that I thought I had a sinus infection because the area around my eye was tender and had been weeping for two days. She insisted that I was suffering from migraines. Not paying any attention to her, I made some pure ginger tea, put a hot compress on my face, and rested. The next day, the infection drained from my sinuses, my eye stopped weeping instantly, and the headache went away. Let this be a lesson in knowing your body!

Up next: Sewing in Review 2011 and the 3rd garment of my SWAP complete!

L

YSG: Ramblings

2011-12-22T13:24:00.002-05:00

1. On not blogging for two weeks...

I've been really busy and very tired. The beginning and end of the semester is always busy for me and this semester was no different. Plus, I had doctor's appointments, court, jury duty, and I've recently restarted doing volunteer work. Every day of my calendar had several things scheduled; I even had to pencil in 'rest' on a couple days.

2. This week, I went in for a medical procedure and am recovering from that. Let me just say that some pharmaceuticals are amazing and very scary. I was given a sedation drug that caused me to be conscious during the procedure. The scary (or good?) thing is I have zero recollection of the procedure. My friend told me that I was talking with the doctor and nurses during the process and even debated the doctor about the areas of my body being fat versus muscle (a very funny exchange as I am told). I do not remember ANY of this at all. I don't remember feeling any pain during the procedure - despite my many verbal complaints of being in pain. I don't know what kind of voodoo was going through my veins at the time, but that is some scary shit. Anyway I am home, rested, and feeling better. I still have some minor pain, but I am mobile.

3. I got another jury service questionnaire. I haven't even been paid for last week's service.

4. Today is the winter solstice. Yay! The earth now starts her glorious tilt back toward the sun tomorrow. Mmm...heat...

5. I cut out all of the pattern pieces, linings, and interfacing for several of my garments in the SWAP.

6. Upon cutting out the jacket pieces, I realize that I made a stupid alteration error that I hope won't be too visible in the final garment. Of course, I don't have any more fabric to re-cut the piece. Oh well.

7. I picked up 5 of the 12 pounds I lost. Stupid thanksgiving holiday and all those delicious sweets.

8. I finished jeans #6 a while ago. The button tack popped off sometime last weekend and I have yet to replace it. Since I plan on wearing the jeans tomorrow, I guess I should look for another tack.

9. If you haven't watched The Cleveland Show's parody of Die Hard (fabulously titled Die semi-Hard), watch it on Hulu. Very funny. I wish Family Guy would return to its comedy roots.

10. I hope EyeCandy is at the rink tomorrow. This guy is sooooooo handsome.

11. Hmm. Admittance to the rink is free tomorrow and I know it's going to be crowded. Since I still have a bit of pain, I better take it easy and not get too wild out there.

12. I'm really enjoying my volunteer group. So far, it seems like a nice group of people. I'm looking forward to meeting up with them in January.

13. I have about 15 pieces of pottery that need to be glazed. I can't decide on a colour scheme for my dishes, lantern, or pedestal bowl.

14. I've had a headache since Monday night. Tylenol does nothing.

15. This dog's snoring is epic.

16. I keep waking up at 3 and 4am.

17. Newton Leroy Gingrich. Le-roy?? Too easy.

That's it for now. I hope everyone is well. Have a happy and safe holiday season!

L

Jeans #5: Finished!

2011-12-05T20:37:00.000-05:00

dark colours are so hard to photo

loving the hem length!

After having encountered many crazy issues with this pair, they're now finally complete. This is the pair that has the cute little crystal design on the back pocket. It's hard to take a picture of the back and I didn't have time to set up the tripod as I was on my way out last night.

right back pocket

I adore how these jeans fit, even though the denim has at least 25% stretch. This is simply too much for me. The fly area pulls apart something awful and the waistband is super stretchy - even with interfacing. I have to wear these jeans with a shirt that is long enough to cover the zipper because it just doesn't look right at all. It's a shame, too, because I am seriously digging the crystal design! Were I a more assiduous sewer, I would pick all this shit apart and try the zipper again. Since I did that four times already, round five is not happening. Besides, life is too short. Like my friend Deepika once said, "There will always be more fabric. It is time we must preserve." Yeah. So. Yeah. Not happening. =)

I almost finished with jeans #6. I just need to work the button hole and sew the hem. Photos coming soon.

L

2012 SWAP Intentions

2011-11-27T20:55:00.001-05:00

A few days ago I mentioned that I was participating in the 2012 SWAP on Stitcher's Guild. After perusing my pattern and magazine stash, I've finally settled on seven garments that I'd like to sew for the contest.

Button-down shirt with collar: Vogue 1260 (x2)

During the American Sewing Expo, I had an opportunity to meet Sandra Betzina and try on the actual view B (the red & black one) featured on the pattern envelope. I was pleasantly surprised to see that the shirt (in size D) fit very well. Although it was a little snug across the bust, cutting the next size up on only the front should fix that.

Fabric: teal striped cotton shirting; yellow stretch cotton poplin

Vest: New Look 6914

When I received this brochure from Clarks in the mail, I couldn't help but focus on her outfit. It's simple, chic, and not too country. On the inside is a closer shot of the vest. The vest has front pockets with the welt cut on the bias. Too cute! I have a wool houndstooth very close to the one in the picture and have some boots that I think will go nicely with the vest. If I have the time, I might attempt to make a denim shirt as well.

Fabric: brown/blue/green/cranberry wool small-scale houndstooth

Top: McCall's 6078

I made this top over the summer and love it. I need to adjust the front to minimize the pooling that appears. I don't think I can eliminate it entirely, It seems as if everyone who's made this top has this problem to some degree - whether they were full busted or not.

Fabric: gold metallic knit

Jacket: Jalie 2559
This pattern is complete in so many ways. It's fully lined, has welt pockets, separate pieces for the back lining (with pleat), self-fabric sleeve heads, and fabulous instructions. I've already made my first muslin and alterations to the pattern. The fit is quite good and only needed a bit of tweaking on the side front panel. I may or may not make a second muslin (gasp!).

Fabric: rust coloured or brown wool flannel with cream Bemberg lining

Jeans: Jalie 2908 (x2)

Two garments can be sewn before the contest's official start date (26 Dec). I'm sewing my two pairs of jeans as part of the Jeans Sew Along.

Fabric: very dark blue stretch denim; dark blue non-stretch denim

Trousers: BWOF 11-2006-102 (x2)
I traced a size 40 and am very happy with the fit. I compared the front and back crotch curves of the pattern to my sloper and found that not much alteration was needed. I made two muslins and am confident in cutting out my fashion fabric. I just have to figure out a way to make the waistband look nice and neat on the inside. Hmm...

Fabric: brown wool; gray wool

Skirts: Colette Patterns 1005 & New Look 6897

These are two returning favourites. I made them both this summer and loved wearing them.

Fabric: gray wool suiting (CP); brown or teal wool solid (NL)

I don't really have a colour palette. I'm sort of making stuff up as I go along. I'm really excited about this plan and think I can complete it.

L

Hmm...

2011-11-25T08:51:00.003-05:00

Either I had too much or not enough wine. I'm going to go out on a limb and say 'not enough.'

L

Jeans #5 & #6 Progress

2011-11-23T07:00:00.007-05:00

As part of the Jeans Sew Along, I decided to tackle sewing two pairs at once. Aside from having to change the topstitching thread between each pair, the whole process is going rather well. I'm about half-way through completing both and hope to have them done in time for the weekend.

For #5, I am using a super dark blue (maybe black?) stretch denim from the stash. This denim has more stretch than I prefer, so I am sewing with a larger seam allowance. Plus since I lost more weight, the pattern I'm using doesn't quite fit anymore. For #6, I am using a dark blue non-stretch denim, also from the stash. Since the denim doesn't have any stretch, I added extra to the seam allowance for fit. Bad idea! These jokers are ginormous! I will probably end up taking off an inch from the side seam to get these to fit.

I've lost twelve pounds since the end of August and it shows. I took my measurements over the weekend and saw that I lost two inches off my hips and waist. Losing off the waist is okay, the hips...ummm...I like my curves. I won't do anything drastic, though. I am happy to say that my lips, hips, and ass are cement free. Wow.

Of course this means I need to update several patterns to reflect my new size. I will re-trace the jeans pattern and try to make another pair during semester break. I will also have to re-trace my favourite skirt patterns and get cracking on making some new ones since the ones I made this summer no longer fit. My friend suggested that I take them apart and make them smaller. Um....thanks...but it would be much easier to just make another skirt. Anyone who's seen my basement knows that I am not short on fabric! Hopefully when school is over soon, I will have more time to focus on revamping and refitting some of my patterns.

Here are some photos of #s 5 & 6 in progress:

non stretch denim with gold topstitching

stretch denim with black topstitching and crystal design

Until next time, be well!

SWAP 2012

2011-11-13T13:49:00.003-05:00

It's that time again for the annual SWAP (Sewing With a Plan) contest on Stitcher's Guild and the rules are simply divine! Last year's contest was an utter failure as many people had good intentions (myself included), but only two (yes, TWO) people finished. The rules for last year's contest centered around techniques and each garment had to focus on a technique that was new to you or not totally mastered. While it was made clear that one could use the same technique on as many garments as desired, the general sense was that people were overwhelmed with the requirements.

This year, however, the rules center around fit and developing tried-n-true patterns. The focus is less on coordinating and outfit-building and more on working on one or two key patterns from a certain group to fit your body. To quote DragonLady from Stitcher's Guild:

"This year, our SWAP will focus on fitting, and making tried-and-true patterns: testing and fitting paper patterns, muslins, and fashion garments that will help lower the overall sewing failure rates, result in fabulous clothing to be proud of, and (hopefully) give every contestant a pattern or two that works every time it is used."

The rules are simple: Choose seven garments from the list below. Of these seven, select four to make twice for a total of eleven garments. The four garments you choose are thought to be the patterns you make tried-n-true.

Button down shirt w/collar
blouse or shirt (collar is optional)
t-shirt
vest
dress
overshirt
jeans
trousers
shorts or capris
skirt
jacket (jean jacket, windbreaker, hoodie, etc.)
coat (suit or sport coat)
overcoat or raincoat
bathing suit or coverup

How can I not be excited about this?! Since fitting woven tops/jackets has been the bane of my sewing existence, I am determined to see this SWAP through. I have a bodice and pants sloper and even more knowledge about fitting.

Tentatively, my plan is as follows:

2 button down shirts with collar
2 pairs of jeans
2 pairs of trousers
1 or 2 jackets
1 shirt
1 or 2 skirts
1 coat or 1 vest

As for colour schemes, I'm still not sure of what to do. I seem to run into roadblocks when it comes to coordinating fabrics. I do okay with three or four garments, but eleven? Not so much. After perusing my closet, I noticed that I have a lot of gray pants and skirts. So, my current thought is to center the bottoms around browns and build from there.

Even though the contest starts in December, we can sew up to two garments before then and make mock-ups of everything else. Also, the fabric can be prepared and cut prior to the start date. The Jeans Sew Along is timed perfectly since I can complete two of the eleven garments now and focus my attention of fitting and sewing the trousers, blouses, and jacket.

I made a mock-up of a BWOF pattern and am really pleased with the fit. I cut a straight 40 (gasp!) and only had to tweak a couple of areas. I cut out a second muslin to re-check the fit and if all goes well, I will prepare and cut my luscious wool. More on that later!

Until next time, be well!

L

It's a Jeans Thing Sew Along

2011-11-04T07:22:00.005-04:00

Come one, come all and sew a new pair of jeans! The site is up and can be found here: It's Jeans Thing and will run from 15 Nov to 15 Dec. If you'd like to join, leave a comment here with your email address and I'll add you as a co-author. I don't have a badge because I can't figure out how to make it!

L

Jeans #4 Finished & Sew-Along

2011-10-30T09:35:00.006-04:00

As planned, I finished #4 in time for the weekend. These jeans are SOOO comfortable and flattering. I made them tighter than normal (gotta embrace the curves!) and an inch longer so that the hem broke at just the right spot on my shoes. I am loving this pattern and can't wait to get started on the next pair.

Speaking of the next pair, let's sew along together! It's time to Occupy a New Pair of Jeans. I'm thinking we can start on 15 November and end either on 30 Nov or 15 Dec- whatever you choose. Personally, I opt for starting in the middle of next month because I have a lot going on right now and am overwhelmed. Plus, our second midterm exam will be over and I'll have more time to participate fully.

In the meantime, if you'd like to join me, post a comment with your email address. I'll create the site and invite you to be a co-author.

L

Jeans #4 Progress

2011-10-27T07:40:00.003-04:00

jI am almost finished with my next pair of jeans. I need to attach and topstitch the waistband, work the button hole, and sew the hem! In all, I spent maybe 8 hours over the course of a few days making this pair.

Anyone interested in doing a jeans sew-along? Come on, Faye! I know you can do it. =)

L

Making Jeans Isn't That Difficult

2011-10-23T13:21:00.000-04:00

Whenever I mention that I've made my own jeans, people usually respond with a comment about the task being really difficult. It actually isn't. The hardest thing about making jeans (or any garment for that matter) is achieving fit. Once you do that, the construction is quite simple.

Having made three pairs of jeans so far, I've streamlined the process down to a point where I can make a pair in a relatively short amount of time. Using multiple machines dedicated to one task is a HUGE time-saver. There is no need to change the thread colours, needles, and settings back and forth for each seam.

sewing machine (with a walking foot) to sew the seams
second sewing machine for topstitching
serger to finish the seams together (after serging)

If you've ever made a pair of pants, you can definitely make jeans. A simple trouser pant with a fly-front has four main pieces: front, back, front waistband, back waistband. A pair of jeans has the same four basic pieces, except the front and back are split into two: (1) back and back yoke, and (2) front and front yoke. The front yoke is constructed along with the front pocket while the back yoke is part of the jeans design. Add to these pieces a back pocket, fly shield, and belt loops and you have a pair of jeans. The process of constructing jeans is laborious since the work involves sewing (almost) every seam three or four times. But, it is certainly not hard.

On my current pair, I've put in about 4 hours (or so) of work. This includes:

cutting out the fabric and pocket lining
making the back pocket design
attaching the back pockets and back yoke
assembling the front pocket linings and front yoke

Progress Pictures:

Next I need to:

install the zipper
topstitch the front zipper area
sew & topstitch the inseam
sew the side seams
attach & topstitch the waistband
make the button hole
sew the hem

If I plan accordingly and put in a little time each day, these should be ready to wear out this coming weekend! Now, all I need is a top. Hmm...

L

Serger Update & the Next Project

2011-10-18T20:15:00.005-04:00

Last week, I took my serger into the shop with the intention of leaving with something new and shiny. While I did consider getting a Babylock, I just couldn't reason parting with 4 figures on another machine. (Sorry Kyle!) I am having mechanical failures of all sorts and have to prioritize at the moment.

After explaining the issue to my dealer, she said that she will have the repairman evaluate the machine and see if it's worth fixing. If it is, he'll fix it. If not, they'll let me know. It turns out that the issue was fixable. The repairman tightened the lower looper arm, adjusted the tensions, reset the timing (again O_o), cleaned the machine, and gave me a six-month warranty. If the machine acts up again within six months, then I can apply the repair cost toward the cost of a new machine.

I'm not going to wait six months to see if this damn thing is going to act right. So my next project will be labour intensive with hefty fabric. Yes, I am making another pair of jeans! I've already cut out the pieces and am thinking of designs for the pockets.

Many thanks to all who left comments and suggestions on sergers.

If you hear of a woman chucking a white object over the Ambassador Bridge, it was me sending my serger to a watery death in the Detroit River!

L

Just When My Sewjo Made a Comeback...

2011-10-09T11:46:00.003-04:00

...my serger decided to take a break...literally. Freakin' serger. That's it. I'm done.

I am quite certain that the arm attached to the lower looper shouldn't move freely. But since it does, the stitches are sporadically uneven and sloppy. I know I can finish the edges on my sewing machine, but why should I if I have a machine that cuts and does it for me?! I am annoyed. Grrr.

What serger to get now? Do you have a serger? If so, what's your experience?

L

APB: Missing Sewjo.

2011-10-05T19:53:00.002-04:00

I am putting out an alert for a missing sewjo. If you see it, catch it and hold it down for me. I'll be on the way...

School is seriously draining this semester. It's only been four weeks and I am burned out! By the time I get home, I am on relax-mode and in no mood to sew. It sucks because I really need clothes - especially skirts. Yes, that's right: skirts. The skirts I made this summer for fall are now too big. That's a good thing since I am toning up and dropping a few pounds, but that leaves me with a hole in my wardrobe.

I did begin work on the Lady Grey coat. I made the muslin, cut out all of the pieces and am in the process (whatever that means) of hand-basting hair canvas to the fronts. I was hoping to have it done before it got too cold to wear it. Meh...we'll see about that. We have a break coming up (hallelujah), so maybe I can get some sewing done then.

While this coat will take some time to complete, I need something quick and easy to do. Thing is, I'm stalled by indecision on what to do. Hah!

What do you do when your sewjo goes missing?

L

Vogue 1250: Complete

2011-09-17T09:50:00.006-04:00

This dress is super simple to make and extremely flattering. The front drape isn't too risque and the fit is superb. I knew I was going out on Friday and wanted something cute and special to wear. I made a mock-up last weekend, cut it out on Tuesday and finished the hems by Thursday. The dress really doesn't take that long to make; I just had to spread out my sewing time over a few days.

Fabric & Notions:

2 yards of navy blue ponte knit from Fashionista Fabrics

Alterations:

I traced a size 14 everywhere except in the bust and upper waist area near the side dart seam; in these areas I morphed out to a size 16 to allow for more room. The mock-up showed the need for only a couple of small changes.

I removed two inches of length in the front length because it was too long and created unsightly folds in the waist and high hip area.
I also did a 1.5" swayback adjustment because fabric was pooling at my center back. In hindsight, I should have just taken out the length completely across the back pattern piece because the horizontal seam at the back is actually a bit too low. I'll correct this on future versions.

I shortened the dress about 1.5" and took a 1" hem.
Finally when I cut out the fashion fabric, I placed the center front slightly inward from the fold. This gave me little more room across the front in case I needed it.

Construction Details:

I sewed this mainly on my sewing machine using a stretch needle, walking foot, and small zig-zag stitch. I used my serger to finish only the shoulder seams and horizontal/vertical back seams. My serger did NOT like working with ponte knit. In fact, I think my serger and I must part ways because it's been fussing about a whole lotta shit for no good reason. I love my Janome, but we're at an impasse and I'm over it. =)

The pattern has a piece for a back neck facing. You're supposed to fold the rectangle in half, stitch it to the back neck edge, and then understitch. My knit was mildly beefy and I thought all that fabric would be too thick at the back. So, I cut the facing in half and stitched it down. While this did reduce bulk, next time I'll omit the facing and just turn the seam allowance under and coverstitch.

Conclusion:

In all, I am very pleased with my dress. I got a nice compliment from my guy friend and I felt really good wearing the dress last night. Busty chicks have no fear! This pattern is a winner. =)

Up next: Lady Grey coat and something else. Y'all know I can't just work on one thing at a time.

Be well!

L

Still Breathing!

2011-09-15T11:04:00.004-04:00

School started for me last week and I've been busy and exhausted. Is it too early to already look forward to the next break? =)

On the sewing front, I haven't worked on my fall 6PAC much at all. I have a plan and love my colour palette, but I just haven't been motivated to move forward with it. I want to make several pairs of slacks using using my trouser draft. But, I've run into problems with drafting the fly front and contour waistband; something just doesn't look right. Hmph. I'll get back to it...eventually.

So instead of forging ahead, of course I worked on other things. =) I made the infamous DKNY cowl-neck dress (V1250). I don't have any pictures yet; I hope to take and post some soon. I also made a muslin for the Lady Grey coat. I was pleasantly surprised to see that the pattern fit quite well right out of the envelope. I didn't need an FBA or swayback adjustment. I only needed to remove a bit of length from the front lapel and upper center back. I've already cut out the shell fabric and will begin work on basting the hymo hair canvas to the front. (I'm following Gertie's series of tailoring techniques from last year's Lady Grey sew along.)

So, that's it for now.

Be well.

L

I Know the Way to San Jose (photo heavy)

2011-09-02T10:48:00.002-04:00

Last Thursday, I ventured out to visit my dear friend in San Jose, Costa Rica. Words are simply incapable of describing the wonderful time I had experiencing the sights, sounds, and tropical smells of Costa Rica with my friend. Having never been to the tropics before, this trip was pure delight! Many thanks to Nelly and Ago for their generosity, kindness, and hospitality. Love to you!!

This picture was taken while flying over Cuba. I *heart* window seats.

This is a walking tree.
The roots originate on the branches and extend down to the ground.
Over time, the tree's position is altered by "walking."

The plant life is divine.
This is just one of the MANY pictures of plants that I took.

Main crater at the Poas Volcano (Volcan Poas)
The crater is still active as evidenced by the sulfuric acid mixed lagoon (light teal blue) and steam.

Ago, Nelly, and me
The day was picture perfect and very clear!

One of the many meters of paths we walked on the volcano.
The air was pure, cool, and damp. Simply perfect.

Inactive crater at Poas Volcano
Since the magma chamber is empty/inactive, water has filled the crater.

I know I'm short and all, but this was huge plant!

Yes, that is a live toucan giving me the stink eye while sitting on my arm.

Awwwwww...kissing toucans.

Nelly at the butterfly garden.

Feeding a hummingbird in the garden.

Cataracts at the La Paz Waterfall Gardens.
Three waterfalls are apart of the gardens.
The first waterfall feeds the second, and the second feeds the third.
Sensory. Overload.

Nelly and me at the volcano thermal spa.
The pool in which we sat contained volcano water with lots of minerals.
Skin so silky smooooooth.

Gotta keep it real!

Gilberto, our tour guide at the park. He was so sweet!

Blue-crowned mot mot
Look at the colours on this bird! This was taken on the patio of my friend's apartment.
The black beads are regurgitated bugs. The bird wanted papaya instead. I don't blame him.

New cathedral in Cartago, CR.
The church was reconstructed after the 2009 earthquake.
Out of respect for the church and those praying inside, I did not take any pictures.
Take my word, it was beautiful inside.

Ruins of the old church.
This is a partially constructed church. It's my understanding that the church wasn't completed because the Virgin Mary didn't like its location.

Parting shot of a volcano and mountains from the airplane.

You know I had to be true to myself. =)
All are stretch cottons except for the chartreuse.
This piece is for my friend, Nelly, who would like it made into a scarf.

Patrones!
Each issue was about $5.

Really cute purse made out of coconut.

The colòn is the national currency. About 500 colones is one US dollar.
This bill, 2000 colones, is about four dollars.

I have many, many more pictures. This is just a small collection that summarizes the trip. In all, I had a fabulous time and do it all over again in a heartbeat.

Until next time, be well!

L

Way Back Wednesday: Old School R&B

2011-08-24T09:18:00.003-04:00

I cannot get enough of this song. When it's played at the rink, I'm in skater's heaven. This is classic R&B.

Recognizing Your Beauty

2011-08-22T08:31:00.002-04:00

I read this statement this morning and thought I'd share.

"It's easy to be very happy, noticing things to admire rather than looking only for ways to be admired. You know that feeling you get when you see a lush summer garden, abundantly green and fragrant and riotous with blossoms? Does it bother you that you're not as beautiful as it is? No, of course not; it's a garden. Its beauty has nothing to do with you, takes nothing away from yours. In fact, standing in the middle of a flourishing garden, filling your eyes with the deep and impossibly delicate colors, inhaling the odors, sweet and complex, you might feel more beautiful, more precious yourself, marveling at your own ability to perceive it all."

From the August 2002 issue of O, The Oprah Magazine

Life Isn't a Beauty Contest: How to Stop Comparing Yourself to Other Women by Val Monroe

Finished Projects

2011-08-21T12:05:00.002-04:00

Over the last few days, I've been working on completing some projects that were hanging around.

Colette Patterns 1005

Fabric & Notions:

white stretch linen
white polyester lining
fusible interfacing
12 dark blue marbled 1" buttons

I finally sat down and remeasured the way-off button spacing for the Beignet skirt. Let this be a lesson in always measuring twice! I last worked on this skirt in June. By the time I was ready to hand-sew the twelfth button, the bottom hem was an inch off. The whole front was crooked, looked terrible, and prompted the removal of all but three buttons. Needless to say, I was not very motivated to start over again. So, this skirt hung in my closet for weeks!

Determined to wear this white skirt before the end of summer, I put all other sewing aside and took my time with marking the front. I placed pins in the buttonholes where the buttons should be and adjusted the spacing after each button was sewn. Instead of sewing vertically from top to bottom, I sewed a few buttons at the top and then moved to buttons near the bottom to ensure that the hem stayed relatively level. While the hem is slightly off, it isn't nearly as bad as before. I can live with it. The top is Simplicity 2614. I blogged about it here.

In the picture, it looks like the skirt falls below my knees. It doesn't. It stops right at the knee which is just where I like it.

New Look 6897 (out of print and on sale until 22 Aug on Simplicity.com)

Fabric & Notions:

100% cotton home dec fabric from Field's Fabrics in Kzoo
7" invisible zipper
1.5" wide petersham cut to waist measurement plus a little more for folding under

I *heart* this pattern. For the second version, I sewed view B without the flounce. Instead, I inserted pseudo-self made piping along the front princess seams. Since I wanted to use this honeycomb print, I knew that the princess seam would interrupt the print's flow. So I exaggerated the break using the piping.

I say it's 'pseudo-self made' because I technically made it from other piping material. JoAnn's was out of the butter yellow piping I wanted. They had some awful green colour in clearance for $0.25. I harvested the cord from the green piping and used some butter yellow bias tape I had in the stash to create the piping I wanted. This task did not go without its challenges. In all, it worked pretty well.

I used an invisible zipper in the side seam and faced the waist with petersham.

BWOF 09-2009-137

Fabric & Notions:

50/50 polyester-wool blend that's just not worth the time
7" invisible zipper
1.5" wide petersham cut to waist measurement plus a little more for folding under
fusible interfacing for the zipper edges

In addition to finishing the skirt, this is my first completed BWOF magazine pattern. The instructions weren't too bad, although this skirt is really easy to construct. I cut a straight 46 and added 1/2-inch seam allowances to all edges except the lower back (flounce) edge. On those edges, I used 3/8-inch seam allowances since the curve was so dramatic. I didn't add any hem allowance because I suspected the skirt was long enough.

I made my standard full seat alteration of 1.25 inches and lopped off 2 inches from the length. The skirt as drafted comes to my mid calf and that's not a flattering length on me. As I mentioned before, I suspected the skirt was plenty long. I didn't realize just how long until after I inserted the zipper. I unpicked the zipper and lopped off 2 inches from the back pieces and did the same from the front. I liked the width of the flounce and chose to not shorten it.

See the puckers?! *$&#@% I interfaced the zipper area and pressed the shit out of those darts and CB seam. Nothin. The fabric just has too much polyester in it. I am annoyed and can't stand it. I will try to press one more time and if it doesn't work, this is going in the give-away box.

The fabric was just a poor choice for this skirt. It doesn't have enough drape to not make the folds on the flounce look so stiff. I'll likely make this again and when I do, I'll select something with no polyester and a lot more drape.

The front isn't as bad, though there are puckers at the hem. Stupid fabric. The skirt is unlined and finished with petersham at the waist.

That's it for now. I'm working on finishing up a few other PIPs (projects in progress) and adjusting my trouser draft to crank out some pants for fall.

Until then, be well!

L

Quick Trip to the City

2011-08-16T23:02:00.001-04:00

Last Wednesday morning at the crack of stupid (i.e., 3 am), I ventured out on a road trip to New Jersey. My friend, Lady T, recently moved to Abu Dhabi, UAE and wanted to take her car. I offered to drive it to the shipping company outside of Newark and, in return, she paid for my flight back home. She booked the flight for the following Saturday, which gave me the chance to spend some time in NYC.

Having made the drive from Detroit to Brooklyn over 20 times, this trip wasn't so bad. From door to door, it took me 10 hours, 15 minutes which included 3 stops and a minor construction delay at the Delaware Water Gap. Big thanks to Ohio for finally stepping into the present day by raising the speed limit on the Turnpike to 70 mph. Big WTFs to Pennsylvania for that throwback to the past by dropping the speed limit to 65mph...or was it always 65 mph? After 20+ times, you'd think I'd remember. I don't. Anyway...

My hotel was in Brooklyn close to Williamsburg and Bed-Stuy, the neighbourhood in which I lived. Though the landscape looks pretty much the same, gentrification in many areas has set in. There were quaint little boutiques and coffee shops sprinkled throughout. Given the astronomical increase in subway/transit fares (a 7-day unlimited Metro Card is $29; it was $17 when I was here last), I didn't even bother to ask about rent. =/

The Atlantic Avenue Transit center in Brooklyn is *finally* finished. Anyone from Brooklyn who frequents or lives in this area knows what I'm talking about. Man, that was one hot mess of dirt, darkness, wires, and construction debris. Now that it's finished, it looks nice - in need of some artwork - but nice nonetheless. There's a multi-level mall with a Target and other shops. Also, a new football stadium for the Jets is being built right across the street. I struck up a conversation with an MTA (Metropolitan Transit Authority) worker about how he felt about the new development and surrounding area. e said Magic Johnson recently bought a nearby building and that apartments on the ground floor are going for....wait for it... one million dollars. In Brooklyn?! Wow.

I visited the high school where I taught and chatted with former colleagues. It was nice to see them again and meet a couple of current students. I also took a trip to Brooklyn College - the school where I went for more degree work and certification. It felt great to be back on campus; I had forgotten how beautiful it was. Though, I didn't have much time to visit old professors, I did pick up a T-shirt.

As a sewer, a visit to NYC would not be complete without a trip to the garment district. In fact, I think it would criminal not to go there. I was granted the divine opportunity to tour the garment district with Peter from Male Pattern Boldness.

He was gracious to take time out of his day on Thursday to visit with me. We visited the Sporting Life exhibition at the Museum at FIT and next had lunch at a very nice restaurant in Chelsea. Oh, the stores we visited! I begged Peter to take me to his favourite dive Fabric shop - the one that always seems to be going out of business. We went to Chic Fabrics, Steinlauf & Stoller, Spandex House, Pacific Trimmings, C&C, and a few other stores whose names I do not remember. We also stopped by Metro Textiles where I got to meet Kashi and be granted a sewers-rite-of-passage picture with him.

Peter is a great and funny writer. You can read his words on our adventure here.

Now to the good stuff: the NYC haul. I bought seven pieces of fabric - three of which will coordinate with my fall 6PAC and others that will be used for garments next summer. I also bought lots of belt-making accessories, petersham, interfacing, and buttons.

elastic and buckles for 1-, 2-, and 3-inch stretch belts

white carbon tracing paper and 1.5" petersham

buttons & leather trim

weft insertion fusible interfacing in black and white and hymo canvas

black bamboo-cotton lycra

yellow medium-weight wool

top: wool-acrylic-nylon (?) sweater knit, interfacing, stretch cotton sateen
bottom: silk border print, cotton shirting, cotton shirting

In all I had a safe, successful drive in and a good time shopping in the City. I always have fun while I'm there and look forward to visiting again...

On the sewing front, I am almost complete with the polka dot shirt and the BWOF skirt. Once I complete the yellow pintuck blouse, I'm going to officially close out summer and get started on fall. In the meantime, I've created Blogger pages to manage my progress. Although I welcome anyone to read it, the pages exist really for me to keep track of what needs to be done with each garment.

Be well!

L

Summer 6PAC: Update

2011-07-31T16:29:00.000-04:00

I had to scrap one of the tops (V7903) for my summer 6PAC. Sometimes garments just don't work out - despite how the muslin fits. I really had high hopes for this since it would have been my first decent fitting button-up blouse. Alas, the quest continues...

Anyway, here's the ~~ever-changing~~ updated list and progress so far:

black denim jeans (Jalie 2908) - done
~~dark gray darted blouse (Vogue 7903)~~
light yellow polka dot voile pintuck blouse (Simplicity 2365) - 80%
yellow knit cardigan (Simplicity 2424)
cream slinky cowl neck top (McCall's 6078) - done
gray linen skirt with flounce (New Look 6897) - done

Although I'm almost finished with polka dot pintuck blouse, this project has not gone without its share of un-sewing and do-overs.

(S2365)

My machine perfectly stitched a buttonhole and then completely messed up the other buttonhole so many times that I lost count. I had to cut the tab and interfacing out three times before my machine finally decided to get with it.

Also, I don't know what I did wrong when sewing the other half of the collar stand. Aside from the topstitching (which can be fixed), see how nice the stand is on the left (garment right) side?

Da hell?! I have sewed and unpicked that other side so many times. I just can't get the curve to behave the same way. I notched the inner curve and took my time sewing it to the neckline. Does anyone have any tips on sewing collar bands?? Please, share! As soon as I get this together, all I need to do is set in the sleeves and sew the hem.

As for the failed blouse, I might replace it with another version of Simplicity 2614. I have plenty of the dark gray fabric. I just have to decide if I want it bad enough to start now or focus on sewing the fall 6PAC.

Speaking of which...

As I said before, the fall 6 (more like 10) PAC will be an extension of the summer plan in that I will incorporate the same colours (and garments) in the new plan. Here are the fabrics and intentions:

Top row:

yellow stretch cotton poplin - blouse
rayon-Lycra knit - top or dress
teal striped cotton shirting - blouse
yellow rayon-Lycra modal - cowl neck top (McCall's 6078)
teal acrylic knit - cardigan

Bottom row:

black stretch cotton twill - pants
teal worsted wool suiting - jacket (Jalie 2599)
wool tweed - skirt (New Look 6274) - done
dark gray wool suiting - skirt (Colette 1009)
black poly-wool blend - skirt (BWOF 09-2009-137)

I have other fabrics and patterns to include, but I will stick to this set first. Ultimately, I would like to sew the Lady Grey coat and I know it, along with the Jalie jacket, will take a lot of time to fit and sew.

Is anyone else planning to do a 6PAC? I saw that Carolyn posted her fall 6PAC intentions. Come on! Sew one, sew six! =)

L

NL6274: Lining & Facing with Petersham

2011-07-29T18:30:00.000-04:00

Attaching the Lining to the Zipper Tape:
This is actually quite simple. I used this tip found on Pattern Review. The tip works if you want to attach a facing, lining, or facing-lining combo to the zipper tape without any hand-sewing.

In the tip, Belinda says to let the facing/lining overhang the seam by 5/8" (1.5 cm). She included a picture of the overhang, but for some reason I can't wrap my mind around the photo or how the overhang factors in to sewing the facing/lining to the zipper tape.

1. Insert the zipper as usual and assemble the lining (facing or facing-lining combo). Arrange the shell and lining so that the right sides face in.

2. Pin the lining to the zipper tape right sides together. I sewed using a 3/8" seam allowance since I didn't quite understand the purpose of the overhang in the tip. This doesn't seem to be posing a problem.

3. Here the right sides are stitched.

4. Turn the lining to the inside so that wrong sides face. Baste

Facing the Waist with Petersham:
Most of the work is done in shaping the petersham to achieve a nice curve so that it molds comfortably around the waist. I used 1.5" wide petersham cut to a length equal to the circumference of my waist where I'll wear the skirt, plus about 2 inches for overlap.

1. Soak the petersham in hot water for a few seconds. Lightly pat dry.

2. Shaping the petersham requires a hot iron a bit of force. I anchored one end of the ribbon to my ironing board using glass-head pins.

3. Moving from one short end to the other, press and stretch one long edge while gently building in a curve on one edge. I don't know if there is a rule or something about how much curve should exist. I just winged it. I've done this twice and don't notice any difference. =)

4. Pin the non-stretched edge to the waist seamline. Since the shell and lining are basted, the seamline is easily visible. The stretched edge should hang off the top of the skirt. In this case, I found pinning parallel to the seamline gave me more stability and control. I was very careful to remove the pins before they reached the presser foot!

5. Edgestitch in place.

6. Turn the petersham to the inside and press, taking care to roll the seam in a bit.

finished inside

While these steps admitted take longer in sewing the skirt, the effort is well worth it. I think this skirt will wear well and last a while. I've worn the flounced skirt so many times already; I just love it.

I'm off to work more on my summer 6PAC. Update coming soon...

Be well!

L

NL6274: Invisible Zipper

2011-07-22T15:08:00.006-04:00

I think I finally got the hang of installing invisible zippers (IZs) successfully. IZs installed in side seams can be tricky since the seams are usually curved. I found that taking extra care in the beginning and stitching slowly help to make installation quite simple.

Tools:

invisible zipper foot
contrasting thread
regular zipper foot

I use an invisible zipper foot by Unique. I found it at a thrift store for $0.50 and love it. I used to use the YKK zipper foot, but I like the Unique one much better. It has a single hole opening (sort of like a straight stitch foot) and deeper grooves for the zipper coil.

1. Using a medium warm iron, press the zipper coils flat. This helps the coils feed through the specially designed groove on the IZ foot.

2. On the skirt front and skirt back, sew a guide line along the seam using contrasting thread. It's kind of hard to see in the photo. The contrasting thread is orange on the right-hand side.

3. On the skirt front and back, fold the seam along the guideline to the inside. Press.

4. Place the zipper (face down) on top of the skirt back (right side up). As oriented, pin the left side of the zipper to the seam allowance making sure that the zipper coils are on the guideline/crease. I like pinning vertically because I can stabilize the zipper more efficiently.

5. Stitch. If you pinned vertically, be careful not to strike the pins! When sewing, I usually place my finger on the pin tip and sew until the presser foot meets my finger. I haven't had have any mishaps doing it this way.

6. To make sure everything lines up (reasonably) well, use chalk to mark match points across the entire zipper and skirt front by lining up the waist seam, hem, and seamlines accordingly. Usually I am pretty good with the match points, though, I admit that I am off a tiny bit on this one. Oh well. I am *not* unpicking this zipper. Really, who will know?

7. Now it's time to attach the right side of the zipper to the skirt front. This takes a little maneuvering, but not Houdini-like. Place both the skirt front and skirt back side by side, right side up. The left side of the face-down zipper should be sewn to the skirt back. With the free zipper tape right side down, orient (by turning) so that the zipper tape is face down on the skirt front with the coils aligned with the guideline/crease. It should only take one turn (hmm...maybe a turn and a half) of the tape to make this happen.

Use the markings on the zipper tape to match the skirt front. Pin and stitch.

8. Close the zipper. Using a standard zipper foot, secure the tape ends to the seam allowances.

9. Finally, finish the seam allowance beneath the zipper. At present, I haven't found the best way to make this part easier. I've been searching for a very narrow zipper foot for my machine. Cleaner's Supply sells zipper feet, but I'm not sure it will fit. I'll buy it (provided there is a return policy) and see. Until then, I use my standard foot (zigzag) and get as close as I can to the area beneath the zipper.

Up next: Attaching the lining to the zipper tape.

Be well!

L

On the Grid & New Look 6274

2011-07-22T14:31:00.004-04:00

I'm back on the grid after having a small electrical issue (read: none). We had storms roll through on Monday and the local substation was taken out. Unfortunately, this meant I had to empty the refrigerator of all things rendered inedible. I washed out the fridge top and bottom (saw this as the perfect time since it was practically empty ), and cleaned up the melted mess that used to be ice that had dripped down to the basement. With the AC running, I am getting the house (and me!) cooled off.

The local power company worked day and night in the blistering heat to help return things to normal. Sure, it was an inconvenience for a few days, but it wasn't the end. I try not to complain about things like this. It happens. I know there are people in the world that have experiences FAR worse than this on a daily basis. I am grateful that I have a home to go to and friends willing to help out. On to sewing...

I'm almost finished with NL6274. Besides hemming both the shell and lining, I have to unpick part of the waist to take a bigger seam allowance. I tried the skirt on before inserting the lining and saw that it was too big. I sewed larger darts, but apparently it wasn't enough. I can almost slip the skirt off without unzipping. O_o I'm guessing the fabric stretched along the waist or something. I checked the pattern pieces against the last skirt I made (NL6897) and this pattern seems a tad bit smaller. Go figure.

I'm in the process of writing up posts of how I installed the invisible zipper, lining, and petersham waist. The plan is to write up each segment in a separate post, with pictures. Yeah...that's the plan. LOL

Until then, be well!

L

Summer 6PAC: Update

2011-07-18T15:29:00.002-04:00

I wore my outfit to a doctor's appointment and other errands today. This was SOOOO comfortable to wear.

I had to make some changes to the Summer 6PAC. Once again, I didn't have enough fabric to cut out the jacket (what gives?!). Here's the updated list and progress.

black denim jeans (Jalie 2908) - done
dark gray darted blouse (Vogue 7903) - cut out
white cotton pintuck blouse (Simplicity 2365)
yellow knit cardigan (Simplicity 2424)
cream slinky cowl neck top (McCall's 6078) - done
gray linen skirt with flounce (New Look 6897) - done

I cut out another skirt, but it's wool and for my transition to the Fall 6PAC. I plan to post a small tutorial on how I sewed the skirt with lining and a ribbon-faced waist while the techniques are fresh in my mind. =)

Until next time,

L

New Look 6897: Complete

2011-07-17T18:57:00.000-04:00

The skirt is part of my Summer 6PAC (blogged here). This pattern was really simple to put together and fits wonderfully.

Fabric & Notions:

linen-rayon blend
invisible zipper
polyester lining
1.5" wide petersham cut to waist measurement plus 4"

Alterations:

Having sewn several New Look skirts, I am fairly confident in selecting a size 16 and not making a muslin. The only alteration I need is a 1.25" wedge as a full seat adjustment. This adjustment helps the fabric go over the trunk junk and keep the hem level.

In skirt patterns that have a center back seam, I actually don't bother to true the seam (gasp!). But since I didn't want a CB seam on this skirt and still needed the extra length, I had to think of another way to make this alteration happen. Here's the process:

(Note: The pictures below are of the alteration to my next skirt, New Look 6274. I neglected to take pictures while altering 6897. )

1. Draw a horizontal line one inch below the dart to the side seam, perpendicular to the grainline.

2. Spread the center back the desired amount. The pattern piece will be skewed a bit near the side seam and cut lines (shown in the black box). Don't do anything with this right now; leave it as it is.

3. Use the grainline beneath the alteration to true the center back. Notice that there is extra width added at the waistline. If desired, you can leave this alone for extra ease. Keep in mind, though, that the amount of room gained is twice the width shown since the center back is cut on the fold. I decided to remove the extra width from the side seam and used Kenneth King's 'no net change' idea to take off the excess.

4. Using a seam gauge, measure the width and transfer this number to the side, measuring in from the cut edge and not the seamline.

5. Remember that little discrepancy in the side seam? If you opted to keep the extra width, just true the side seam as normal. However, if you want to remove the width, use the discrepancy as the ending point of the side seam curve.

Cut off this little piece and voi-la! The alteration is complete. The wedge removed is about the same size and length as the one that was added at the center back.

Lining & Waistband:

Lining
The skirt is fully lined with some polyester lining from the stash. I cut all of the primary pieces, less 1" from the hem. I started searching the Pattern Review message boards for ideas on how to face the waist with petersham and instead found information on how to successfully attach the lining to the zipper tape without any hand sewing. In this tip, Sew4Fun describes precisely how to do this.

Basically, you sew the lining to the zipper tape before attaching it to the skirt at the waist. Then once you turn everything right side out/up/whatever, everything folds into place leaving a nice smooth edge at the zipper tape. Next, baste the waist, right sides together and proceed with finishing the garment. It's sort of difficult to describe this in words. When I make the next skirt, I'll try to include pictures of the process.

Waist facing
The pattern is drafted without facings and calls for half-inch wide twill tape for stabilizing the waist. I found this the opportune time to try facing a waist with petersham. W.O.W. Why did I wait so long?! I don't know that I'll ever use waist facings again. I used a combination of tips from Sandra Betzina's Power Sewing and Sew4Fun's skirt review to attach the petersham. I used 1.5" wide petersham cut to my waist measurement plus 4". 4" is probably a bit more than needed, but I cut it anyway to ensure I had enough overlap to fold back on the zipper edge.

Steps:
1. To contour the petersham, soak it in hot water for a few seconds and lightly pat dry. Using a hot iron and steam, gently build a curve by stretching one long edge of the petersham.

2. Once dry, pin the non-stretched edge at the waist seam; the curved edge should be hanging off of the waist edge. Stitch.

3. Fold and press the petersham to the inside taking care to roll the seam.

4. There should be some overlap on the zipper edge. For the overlap back on itself and secure to the zipper tape. You may need to cut any excess to reduce bulk.

5. To secure the facing, stitch in the ditch along all major seams. For this skirt, that included the front princess seams and side seams.

I hope this was helpful to someone! Until next time, be well!

L~

Sneak Peak: M6078 & NL6897

2011-07-15T21:33:00.004-04:00

Here's a picture of two of my latest completed garments:

McCall's 6078 & New Look 6897

I have a long post in progress about fitting and sewing the skirt. I just need a few more pictures before I am able to share it. Details coming soon!

L

Do You Have a 6PAC?

2011-07-13T08:59:00.000-04:00

Two years ago (wow, has it really been two years??), I sewed a 10-garment plan for the wardrobe contest on PR, but got bored with it 2/3 of the way through. I grew tired of the colour scheme and the pressure to finish by the deadline did nothing for the sewjo. While I did finish, I only regularly wear a few of the garments.

Last fall, I participated in the fall version of the 6PAC (a laid-back & flexible sew along) on Stitcher's Guild and was very successful with it. A "6PAC" is a small, six-garment wardrobe plan, sewn over the course of three months, that focuses on anchoring the look with the basics. Here are the details from last fall's collection:

(quoted directly from a post written by Stitcher's Guild member ejvc)

"Skirt or trousers (neutral)
3 blouses/tops (1 to match bottom, 2 to complement)
Cardigan (to match skirt/trousers)
Coat or jacket (co-ordinating neutral)

Thus for example in a black/grey/rust/ivory scheme this might include grey skinny jeans, a rust drape-neck top, an ivory turtleneck, a rust and grey print blouse, a long grey cardigan, and a black cropped jacket."

Sounds pretty simple, right? Here was my plan for last year:

Despite the difficulty I had with HP1099, I completed all items of my plan and I regularly wear everything. 6PACs are ideal for me because although there is a suggested list of items, the plan is completely customizable to suit my needs. I think this is a good way to remain focused on sewing a wardrobe because success is definitely attainable. The "rules" are generic, yet structured enough to encourage guided sewing by adding colour, prints, and wardrobe basics.

For more information about 6PACs, visit these links: Autumn 2010, Spring 2011, & Summer 2011.

Even though Summer just started, I've already begun thinking about clothes for next season. I'm going to finish a few more summer projects and then begin the transition into my fall 6PAC.

The major colours in the current plan are yellow, gray, and cream/white.

For fall, I will add teal pieces to the collection.

Update on M5847: Stalled! Whatareyagonnado? I'll finish it...eventually. =)

L

Progress Update: M5847, version 2

2011-07-02T09:41:00.000-04:00

This dress is still not finished. I worked on it for a bit on Monday, but have hit a roadblock. I know what it is, too. It's all the slipstitching that I need to do. Because I had a mishap in cutting the facings, I couldn't use my idea of using topstitching to secure them and I haven't been motivated to sit down and do it by hand. Ugh. Soooo close.

The big secret-secret was really not that big of a deal. =) After completing the first version of this dress, I thought that the side front, side back, and back panels looked a little wide. So, I made extra seams by splitting each of these panels into two pieces.

The topstitching along each seam follows the curve of the dress nicely.

I found a fix for my facing problem. In this post, I mentioned how I neglected to cut out the facings. By the time I realized it, I didn't have enough fabric to cut the facings in full length. I managed to squeak out just enough to catch the roll of the collar.

Next, I added length using a double piece of cotton broadcloth from the stash. A single ply of broadcloth wasn't heavy enough and would have made the front of the dress drape differently. Even though two plies isn't quite the same weight as the denim, it is heavy enough to provide necessary structure and from the front, you can't really tell the difference.

I used A LOT of steam, heat, and a couple of pounds from the clapper to make sure the seam joining the top and the bottom was perfectly flat.

Finally, to make sure that the fix doesn't shift while sewing, I hand-basted the piece together.

Here is a picture of the fully interfaced facing.

Now, I just need to FINISH the dress!!

L

On the Mend

2011-06-26T08:53:00.002-04:00

I am seriously thinking of getting a Mac. Windows, really, it's been a great run. But your vulnerability to viruses and other ailments has run its course with me. This shit is not fun. Why do people create these things?!

I learned computing on a Mac and was so confused upon being introduced to a PC. Unfortunately when my university switched operating systems, I had to learn Windows and have since not looked back. The time has come. I have enough going on right now and am NOT fighting with a machine. I am not Sarah Connor.

On the sewing front, I am almost finished with my second version of M5847. I have to slipstitch the facings, work the buttonholes, topstitch the front, and finish the armholes. Hmm. I think this is where I stopped last time. I see a pattern developing...

I will be on light computing mode for the next few days. I need to make sure my computer is completely healed before I return to my regular scheduled programming. Hah.

L

It Figures...

2011-06-19T21:27:00.002-04:00

You see, this is why I shouldn't get all excited about a new project. I had this grand plan in mind for a second version of M5847. I made changes to the pattern, got all the supplies ready, cut out the pieces, and started sewing it yesterday.

Today I decided to fuse all of the interfacing now so that the pieces are ready when I need them. I'm fusing away while listening to Mary J. Blige; then it hit me. Where the hell are the front facing pieces? I have interfacing for it, but where are the pi--? Oh for the love of...you gotta be kidding me! M&#*%&F^!$@! Yeah, I never cut the facing pieces. I had enough fabric - before I cut out the pockets and bias strips. Now, all I have left is scraps and disappointment. I went through every piece of denim I had and nothing comes close. I don't even remember where I got this piece from, so finding a match is not an option.

I do have an idea, but I don't know if this will work. I found some lightweight cotton broadcloth in the stash. From the scraps, I can cut the top part of the facing and cut the bottom part of the facing out of the broadcloth. This way, I can still have the same denim fabric for the collar. The problem is, I need to make sure that the weight of the lower part of the facing is close to that of the fabric, or else the dress won't hang properly. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrr....

I have no idea what I was thinking when I cut out these pieces. I do remember being in a rush to do something. Let this be a lesson in knowing when to slow down and be present!

L

M5847: Complete

2011-06-18T17:50:00.004-04:00

I hand-sewed the last button yesterday. I know there's a way to do this by machine, but I couldn't figure it out. After sticking myself with the needle a few times and even drawing blood with a staple (don't ask), the dress is finally done. I wore it to my friend's daughter's graduation party today. I received really nice compliments and had a great time.

I have two more dresses in queue. I will sew a second version of M5847, though I'm keeping the details under wraps. Why I'm being all 007 about it I don't know. Though, I will say that there is A LOT of topstitching involved.

I also started working on McCall's 6279. When I measured the pattern pieces, I was surprised to see that a straight size 16 required little to no adjustments. I shifted the bust fullness down two inches and made a quick muslin. So far, I am pleased with the results. I'll make the dress out of a linen & rayon blend. The colour is dark orange-rust and the buttons are two shades of light and medium brown.

If I work hard enough, I should be able to finish both dresses before the end of the month.

Until next time, be well!

L

So Close...

2011-06-13T13:43:00.000-04:00

Don't you just hate it when you are so close to finishing a project and the last thing needed for it to be complete causes problems?! I am at that stage with my dress and its buttonholes. First, I think the top buttonhole is too high, which subsequently throws off the placement of the other buttonholes.

Second, my sewing machine just decided to not stitch the second buttonhole properly - even after I did three tests on scrap fabric. The machine would sew up one side and then stop and stitch in place. I picked out this half-buttonhole twice already and have weakened the fabric in this area. Grr. Finally, I am running out of thread and still have five more buttonholes to make! Of course, this means another trip back to the store for one measly spool of thread.

I am soooooooo close!

Almost Finished with M5847

2011-06-11T10:45:00.000-04:00

I am about 80% done with the shirt dress. I need to bind the armholes, topstitch the front and collar, work the buttonholes, and sew on the buttons. Hmm...make that 70% done...

I decided to go with the light gold/brown topstitching thread. Finding the ideal buttons is another thing. I went to a local craft store and found great buttons - but they were not machine washable. The assistant suggested that I hand-wash the garment. Yeah, that's not happening. I should be able to find something at JoAnn's 50% off sale this Sunday.

The most annoying part of sewing this dress involved slipstitching the facings. I can tolerate slipstitching small areas, but not the entire vertical length of a dress...twice...plus the collar and shoulders. My middle finger still hurts; there must be a better way. I'm thinking that I can postpone topstitching the princess seams until after the facing is sewn. That way, I can tack the facings down and topstitch all in one shot. I'll have to think about it more...

While I'm sure I can improve the fit, I'm not going to tinker with this dress any longer. Since I will likely sew it again, I will make the necessary adjustments in the next version. In fact, I've got an idea for the second version that I'm going to keep on lock for now. I don't want to get all excited only to have an epic fail in the end. =)

More dresses
Trinicity's dresses and Faye's sew along have really inspired me to sew more dresses. I have several in queue that I hope to sew before summer's end.

I'm jumping on the Donna Karan bandwagon with V1250 and V1220.

I tried on a version of this dress at Christine Jonson's open house.

It fit rather well with only a few minor adjustments needed.

McCall's 6279

Simplcity 2406

McCall's 5752

That's all for now. Until next time, be well!

L

Fitting McCall's 5847 (sleeveless version)

2011-06-07T15:23:00.000-04:00

For the first two weeks of June, I'll be working on McCall's 5847 for Faye's summer dress challenge. Since the start of the sew-along, I've made a lot of progress on fitting.

Size & Flat Pattern Measurements
I started with a size 14 based on my high bust measurement. Normally, I would select a myriad of sizes. But because I began cutting out the pattern over a year ago, I decided to follow through with a straight 14 and work from there. I marked all of the seamlines and took flat pattern measurements of all the major pieces, taking into account the following areas:

bust point or bust fullness
total bust circumference (front and back)
full bust circumference (front)
full bust circumference (back)
back-waist length (from neck to waist)
upper back width (across the shoulder blades area)
middle back width (armhole area; shoulder dots on the pattern)
shoulder length

Adjustments
I decided to focus on just a few areas of adjustment despite the number of differences I found between my and the pattern's measurements.

Bust Fullness & FBA
The bust fullness seemed really high on this pattern so I lowered it 2". To raise or lower the bust fullness, draw a box around the fullness with lines perpendicular and parallel to the grainline. The notches can be kept intact by drawing the lines an inch above and below each notch.

Cut the box on these lines and lower/raise the desired amount.

Fill in the open area with paper, true the seamlines, and add back the seam allowance. Repeat the same process on the front.

I neglected to take a picture of the pieces before doing the 1.5"FBA. Here are pictures of the completely altered side front and center front.

Length
I removed 3" of length from the bottom of the dress. I didn't take all 3 inches out at the same place because I wanted to preserve some of the flair. I measured up 4 inches from the hem and took out 1.5 inches. From this line, I measured up 2 inches and removed another 1.5".

Muslin

The Good:

After hemming, the overall length will be just where I want it.
The back doesn't look too bad and fits nicely. Ignore the wrinkles; they exist only because I am twisting my body to snap a picture of the back.
Belts will be my best friend with this dress. Un-belted, this is not flattering.

The Bad:

Hmf. There is quite a lot of pulling at the bustline despite making the FBA.
The shoulder seam is actually a little short. I may have to take smaller seam allowances.
The waist and hip area is quite large. The finished waist and hip measurements were 35 and 46 inches, respectively. The FBA added an extra 3 inches to these numbers.

The Solution:

I was going to make this in a stretch denim (4% Lycra), but I don't have enough fabric. Instead, I will use a lightweight non-stretch and use 1" seam allowances. Hopefully, this will give the extra room I need to prevent the pulling. I say 'hopefully' because I already cut this out of the fashion fabric!

As for the extra waist and hip width, I removed 3/4" from the front side seam and reshaped it. I think I'll be safe.

Up Next
I'm not sure where to go with buttons and topstitching. I have an idea in mind, but having perused some images of denim shirt dresses, I'm not so sure anymore.

Ideas:

tone-on-tone topstitching with flat, light-coloured (ivory, ecru, etc.) buttons
tone-on-tone topstitching with gold, metal shank buttons
light gold topstitching with gold, metal shank buttons
light gold topstitching with flat, light-coloured (ivory, ecru, etc.) buttons

It looks like a trip to the craft or fabric store is in order.

Until then, be well!

L

Last Completed Project for May 2011: Simplicity 2614

2011-06-02T21:37:00.006-04:00

May was definitely a productive sewing month. I completed a total of nine (!!!) garments, with the ninth being Simplicity 2614. I made a hoodie, five activewear tops, yoga pants, a pair of jeans, and a top. I probably did this much wearable sewing in all of 2006. But I digress...

I started and nearly completed a skirt, Colette Patterns 1005, but I didn't get to finish before the end of the month. All that's left to do is understitch the facing, finish the hem, and do twelve buttonholes. I am determined to wear this skirt on Monday, so this has to get done this weekend!

Fitting S2614 wasn't too bad. I had some prior knowledge about the fit before tackling it myself. I had the opportunity to try on two versions of the top made by two different people. For starters, I cut a number of sizes:

neckline: 14

shoulders: 14

armhole: 16

bust & waist: 18 and the D cup pattern piece

sleeve band: 22 (decided after making a muslin)

Muslin
It's no secret that 99% of the time, I make a muslin. Even though I already sampled two versions of this top, I still needed to make sure the sizes I selected would work. Additionally, muslins not only give information about fit, they also provide a chance to test out the instructions as well as construction techniques used in the garment. This muslin revealed a few things:

the empire waist seam was way too high
the sleeve cap has a pouf (not noticeable on the model or line drawings)
there is no defined seamline at the natural shoulder
no FBA needed
the top has a lot of gathers (empire waist, dropped shoulder, & sleeve band)

Alterations
I lowered the empire waist seam 2" so that the seam fell below my bust. To compensate for the extra length, I removed 2" from the lower front.

Even though my intended fabric had crosswise stretch, I wanted to make sure I had enough room across the upper back. So I made a small broad-back adjustment by drawing an "L" around the armhole, slashing across and up to the back shoulder seamline, and pivoting out about 5/8". The pattern is cut in a single layer and I made the adjustment on both sides. There are probably slight differences on each side. A better, more efficient way to do this adjustment is to make the adjustment on one side and then trace the other half from the adjusted piece.

I am not at all a fan of pouf-y sleeves. I lopped off an inch of height, tapering to nothing at the front and back notches. While this alteration did remove some of the poof, the cap could stand to lose another inch or so. If I make this this top again, I will find another sleeve to use instead. The adjusted sleeve piece is on top.

In my quest to get some FLOTUS Obama arms, I've increased my upper body strength training and it's starting to show. Initially, I used a size 16 band and found it to be too tight. So I cut the sleeve band in the largest size and took advantage of my fabric's stretch. Now the band is quite comfortable. I didn't need to cut a larger size in the sleeve/cuff seam; instead I just reduced the amount of gathers. It worked out perfectly.

Finally, I added 1" to the hem.

Construction
Nothing fancy here. I finished all the seams on my serger.

I still have to get better at sewing v-neck openings. I know that Sandra Betzina discusses how to do this accurately Power Sewing. I just forgot to refer to it before tackling this project.

Hopefully I'll get some pictures of the top with my finished Beignet skirt soon!

Up Next:
For the first two weeks of June, I'll be concentrating on McCall's 5847 as part of Faye's Summer Dress Challenge. I've made some progress on the pattern alterations and have the first muslin ready to sew.

I am in the middle of writing the blog post. Until then...

Be well!

L

Detroit Love!

2011-05-30T19:13:00.000-04:00

13.5 Yads & Counting...

2011-05-29T08:14:00.000-04:00

I've been quite productive in the sewing room this month. Given that my sewjo was hiding out in the garage all winter, I'm quite pleased to announce that I sewed 13.5 yards of fabric so far this month! For the sewaholic, this feat might seem minimal at best. For me, it's a big deal. You see, my sewjo regularly takes vacations without me and it's oftentimes hard to get it back.This month, however, my sewjo has been on fi-ya!

So far, I made:

five activewear tops (6 yards)
hoodie (2 yards)
yoga pants (1.5 yards)
jeans (2 yards)
stretch woven top (2 yards)

Thanks to encouragement from Faye, I also finally finished Vogue 1036. I put the jacket on with a pair of jeans and really like it now. I've decided not to add snaps because (a) I don't have any, and (b) it is time to be over with this jacket! It's been hanging around my sewing room since late March and I have to move on. There's no more room in Area 51.

I'm halfway through completing the Beignet skirt from Colette Patterns. The outer shell is done; I have to assemble the lining, attach the facings, and work buttonholes. If I work hard enough, I can get this done before the end of the month and add the yardage to my totals.

What I really need is pictures. I've been getting by with self photos in the mirror, but the lighting isn't all that great. I have a camera and tripod, but I can never seem to get the right angle or height.

How do you take photos of yourself in your sewn garments?

L

Activewear for the Trip

2011-05-28T12:00:00.000-04:00

My sewjo was finally rejuvenated by an inability to find long-sleeved tops for my trip to The Netherlands. After searching local clothing stores for days, I decided I would make the tops myself. I dug around the stash and found 1.5 yards each of a lavender and red cotton lycra. I also had 1.5 yards of a dark purple cotton double knit. I cut Jalie 965 out of each fabric and sewed them up on my serger. When I tried on the red top, the bicep area was too tight - uncomfortably tight. Faced with one week left before the trip, I had to think quickly about how to fix this. I didn't have enough fabric to cut larger sleeves and I didn't have time to order/find any more fabric. Then it hit me! I read an article (Flatlock for Fashion by Pamela Leggett) in the current issue (#155) of Threads about using the serger to flatlock seams. I sliced the sleeve from hem to sleeve cap and attached a 2-inch strip of fabric using the flatlock stitch. I used regular serger thread in the loopers and a thick wool-like yarn in the left needle.

This adjustment was quick and easy to make. The extra time invested in unpicking the sleeves, cutting the 2" strip of fabric, and making the flat lock stitch was well worth it. The sleeves are now very comfortable and roomy.

I would have followed the same procedure on the lavender cotton knit, but I ran into another, more pressing problem! Upon visiting REI and chatting with one of the associates, I learned that cotton wasn't the best fiber choice for biking and that I should use a synthetic fiber instead. (&$*^@!) My preoccupation with warmth clouded rational judgment about fiber functionality! Cotton does not wick away moisture and thus will feel very wet against the skin. If it's cold outside, then wearing a wet shirt will certainly not help keep me warm. D'oh! This conversation took place on Tuesday afternoon, 3 May and I was scheduled to leave on Friday, 6 May. Sure, REI had a bunch of polyester tops (mostly short-sleeved), but at $30 each, that was not an option. I already dropped $$ on some padded bike shorts and a rain jacket and STILL needed to get rain pants.

I didn't have time to run around town, again, and search for something that I was not likely to find. So after class that day, I rushed home and cut out three short sleeved tops out of some polyester microfiber high performance knit that I had on hand.

While the tops serged up quickly, it took me no less than three attempts on EACH top to get that damn neckband attached decently. On the third attempt of the third top, it finally occurred to me what the problem was. To insert the neckband in the round, you're supposed to divide it into quarters - marking the center front, center back, and shoulders with pins.

Then, stretch the band to fit the neckline at each of these places. This wouldn't have been a problem if the distance between the shoulders along the front was the same as the distance between the shoulders along the back. I kept getting these tight pulls on the front and thus found it extremely difficult to attach the band. So I moved the pins marking the shoulders back about an inch (or so) to allow more length along the front.

To finish the tops, I used my coverstitch machine on the bottom hems and shaped the side seams a bit. I would have coverstitched the sleeves but I didn't have time.

To add to the activewear collection, I also made a pair of yoga pants (Kwik Sew 3115) and a hoodie out of black sweatshirt cotton (Kwik Sew 3667). In all, the tops worked out well. They provided the necessary comfort and function I needed on the trip. Now that I know I can easily and relatively quickly make activewear, I don't think I will ever buy it again!

My May sewing mojo has been in overdrive. So far, I've made activewear, a pair jeans, a woven top (gasp), and am almost finished with a skirt. Details coming soon!

L

Good Reason for Bad Blogging

2011-05-19T07:29:00.014-04:00

I have a good reason, really. I do. I was out of town biking in Holland in the beginning of May. You may have read on the blogs of Miss Celie's Pants or the Slapdash Sewist about a bike trip in The Netherlands. I went on that trip, too. Although this wasn't my first time to The Netherlands, I really got to see lots of the country on this trip.

The purpose of the trip was to encourage biking and that we did! Our group biked roughly 30 miles per day beginning in Amsterdam and traveling to various cities in the provinces of North & South Holland. Our route included Haarlem, Leiden, The Hague, Delft, Rotterdam, Nieuwport, and back to Amsterdam. We rode bikes during the day and lodged on a boat, the Liza Marleen, during the evening. The boat sailed from town to town each day, mooring in time for dinner at 6.30p. For some reason, I completely misunderstood how the 'bike & barge' was supposed to go. Originally, I thought we would ride on the boat to each city and then bike around it. Yeah, that wasn't right at all. LOL Upon re-reading (okay... carefully reading for the first time all of) the information that was sent, it clearly states that we would bike from town to town. I blame the oversight...on...um...the weather. Yeah. That's it.

Speaking of the weather...it was perfect for biking! Even though I am *always* cold, I found that with enough layers, I was quite comfortable. The temperature hovered between 60 and 70 degrees and the sun shined wonderfully on most days - so much so that my face is nicely tanned. We did have a bit of rain on Tuesday (fourth day), but it didn't last long at all. The wind, however, is not to be reckoned with! The Netherlands is generally flat, but the wind can be a beast - especially when riding against it.

It was nice to meet up with sewing friends from Europe. I had the wonderful pleasure of meeting Sigrid, Marta, Joana, Hilde (all from Holland), and Sheila (from Belgium). How cool is that? Having referred to Sigrid's tutorials on MANY occasions, it was so nice to meet her in person.

I could go on and on about the trip and maybe I will in future posts. I made several observations during the trip:

Time seemed to stop or move very slowly every day. This was a weird but welcomed (and much needed) sensation.
Biking in Holland is a way of life and means of regular transportation. It was mentioned that Holland doesn't have drivers and cyclists. It has cyclists who also drive cars. That mentality makes all the difference when it comes sharing the road with a car. After a while, I felt comfortable riding along side of a car.
I surprised myself by biking approximately 30 miles for several straight days. During the Rotterdam trek, I developed a monster migraine and had to retire to the boat early. I also didn't bike on Friday, the last day of the tour.
Padded bike shorts are more hype than help. Surely there has to be some sort of padding for the "sits-bone."
Having completed the trip, I am more encouraged to bike. I've done the NYC 5-Borough bike tour twice and for recreation locally. Now, I will look into more biking adventures and ride more often around town.

Below are some pictures, with comments, from the trip. Enjoy!

I had center row 62 (that's 4 consecutive seats) all to myself!
Best. Flight. Ever.

Day 1. The hoodie is Kwik Sew 3667.

Renee, me, Trena at our first stop between Amsterdam and Haarlem

He makes and wears clogs. So cool!

I must have these!

Hmm...should I visit the bakery or distillery?
Hint: He's not a baker.
Cognac + Gin + Rum = Conjum Likeur and a bottle that safely made it back home!

They're a little big...

Mmmm...cheese

Stroopwafle maker at Keukenhof Botanical Gardens

I don't remember where this was taken!

We visited the beach on the ride between Leiden and The Hague.
Can you tell where the sky ends and ocean begins?
Just beautiful.

Working a hand-crank sewing machine inside a windmill at Kinderdijk
(I didn't know folks lived in the mills.)

An evening of tea and friends in Nieuwport
From L-R: Joana, me, Sigrid, Marta, Hilde, Renee, Trena

Kantje Boord!

Taking a picture of Sigrid taking a picture!

Wall of lycra at Kantje Boord

This was my dinner at a vegetarian restaurant on the final day in Amsterdam.
There's salad, beans, and poppy-encrusted quiche.

On the sewing front, I managed to make five tops and a pair of yoga pants for the trip. I also completed my third pair of jeans (not in time for the trip) and have begun work on a new top. I hope to blog about them soon!

Be well!

L

Good Intentions & Update

2011-05-01T16:01:00.007-04:00

March Intentions

I had good intentions. Really, I did. But I should know by now that I cannot actively participate in any timed sewing challenge - especially if timing is short and during exams. Despite not entering any garments in the contest, I did manage to complete a tank top and cardigan and nearly complete the vogue jacket (1036) and a skirt.

The jacket just needs the sleeve facings and snaps on the front. That's it. It's so simple to complete this garment, but I just can't bring myself to do it. Part of the reason is because I'm not too thrilled of how it looks on me. When I made the mock-up, I liked it a lot. But now, having sewed it, I'm not so sure I like it. My friends Melody, Stephanie, and Therisa think it looks okay.

April Intentions

At the end of April, Faye started a 15-day all-tops sewing challenge. The idea was to sew as many tops as possible from 1 Apr to 15 Apr. The challenge was then followed by a 15-day all-bottoms sewing change to run from 16 Apr to 30 Apr. Again with the intentions... I thought this would be a great way to sew up some quick tops for spring. I began good by starting two tops: Burda 7866 and Jalie 965. I really like the Burda pattern, however the fabric I used is a little too festive for me. I don't even know why I bought it.

I'm so close to finishing this too. See the neckline facing? All I need to do is stitch it down and then do the hems. Sigh. I have to admit that when I am not feeling a garment, it does not get done. Sadly, this line of thinking has created my local version of Area 51:

Yes, you are looking at a closet full of UFOs. This picture was taken a couple of years ago and more aliens have landed since then. =/

What's next?

Jeans...
After finding my sew-jo hiding out in the garage, I dragged it into the sewing room a few days ago and began work on my third pair of jeans. So far, the garment is coming along nicely - if you don't count putting in the zipper BACKWARDS and subsequently wasting more than an hour trying to turn the tab around and picking out a shitload of stitches. I managed to fix the waistband issue I had on the last two pair (details forthcoming), but I have to cut a new pair of waistbands because the center front isn't long enough. Where's the "eyeroll" emoticon when you need it?

Long-sleeved knit tops...
I know it's spring somewhere, but I need long-sleeved knit tops. Whatareyagonnado?

Spring/Summer sewing...
I have some events coming up and I want to wear nice new clothes! I have a focus with specific patterns and fabric and I'm excited to begin working on them. More on this later.

Well, it's actually not raining outside (gasp!), so I think I'll go for a walk.

L8r!

Vogue 1036: Part 1

2011-03-20T15:31:00.009-04:00

Plans are going smoothly for my mini wardrobe. Despite having only 11 days left, I am remaining confident in the thought that I can get this done. Currently, I'm working on the jacket and decided to start with this piece first since I knew it would take the most time.

Fabric

I'm using a 100% cotton bull denim purchased at JoAnn's. I had a different fabric planned for this jacket but I wasn't satisfied with how it meshed with the other fabrics in the wardrobe. The bull denim is 58 inches wide and super, super soft. According to the pattern suggestions, I bought 2 yards of fabric. Rarely do I buy extra for shrinkage - even though I do pre-wash when appropriate. This fabric shrunk a full 1/4 yards - 9 full inches! Da' hell?!! Maybe there's something special about bull denim that I don't know. I've never had a fabric shrink this much after one wash - not even rayon. Fortunately, I managed to gain about 4 inches when pressing out the wrinkles in the direction of the grain. I was also able to cut every pattern piece without having to buy more fabric.

Construction

Topstitching:
There is a serious amount of topstitching in this garment and it helps to have multiple machines dedicated to one function. I am sewing the seams on one machine, topstitching on a second machine, and serging the edges together on a serger.

I considered using gold topstitching thread instead of tone-on-tone. After doing a couple of samples, I decided on the latter because I thought the gold might make the jacket look too regal. I will probably make this again in black denim and use white topstitching as shown on the pattern envelope.

I messed up when pressing the seams to one side. I pressed the side back seams toward the side and the center front seams toward the center. Of course I realized this after I serged and topstitched everything. The instructions clearly tell you the correct way to topstitch; I just missed it. I'll make it right...on the next version.

Pocket:
I used a piece of quilting cotton found in the stash. It doesn't really match, but who's going to know? That's what I like about sewing. You can customize the garment however you deem fit.

Sleeves:
When making the muslin, I sewed two rows of ease stitches from notch to notch along the sleeve cap. As a result, the sleeve set in almost automatically with little to no adjusting. For the actual garment, I will use sleeve heads as a way to set in the sleeve. I cut 2 "wide bias strips out of scrap fleece and pinned it along the sleeve cap from notch to notch. This will help the cap ease into the armhole and provide support during wear. In her instructions, Sandra Betzina recommends using lambswool or mohair. I read somewhere that polyester fleece works just as well.

Final Steps

set the sleeves
finish facing edges
attach front and back facings
attach sleeve facings
attach front band back bands
attach snaps

I have work to do tonight, so I don't know if I'll be able to resume working on the jacket. In the mean time, I have the pieces for the other three garments cut and ready to sew. No pressure. No pressure at all. =)

L

When I say "tentative," I really mean it.

2011-03-10T20:50:00.009-05:00

You know that wardrobe plan I posted, what, five days ago? It's on hold for now. It wasn't the colour scheme or fit that stumped me. It wasn't a faulty needle, bad interfacing, or even loss of interest. I really like the colours and fully intend to make these clothes. Want to know what tanked the plan? Not enough freakin' fabric to make the jacket! Grr... I tried several different layouts and just could not get it to work. The picture below shows the best possible layout.

The empty space is needed for the front facing. The side front piece pictured on the lower right side is just barely hanging on. I don't have enough fabric to cut out the under collar and back neck facing. There were two other pieces left, but I knew I could cut those out in a single layer. I even contemplated cutting the under collar and back neck facing out of a different fabric since no one will really be able to see it. Unfortunately, I couldn't find a fabric with the right amount of stretch (mine is a stretch cotton pique) or in a colour that was close to my fabric.

Since I want to enter the contest, I decided to forgo any further searching and move on to plan B. The garments in the next plan were on my summer sewing list anyway.

(click image to enlarge)

The patterns are:

Simplicity 2288, view A or alternate cardigan (navy blue knit)
Vogue 1036 (bone denim)
Jalie 965 (gold metallic knit)
Jalie 2908 (existing pair of jeans)
New Look 6300 (blue, cream, gold metallic woven)
Butterick 5612, bonus item (cornflower blue linen blend)

The motivation for this plan stems from an outing with my friends, Stephanie and Melody. One day, we met for breakfast and walked the mall afterward. During our walk, we stopped in Chico's where I saw this look. It is a simple sack dress with a zipper-front denim jacket and belt. Once I found the Butterick pattern, I knew this outfit would be in my closet this Spring!

Even though this is a complete change in plan, I think I am making good progress. I already traced, cut, and sewed a muslin of the jacket, V1036.

I cut and sewed a straight size E and find the fit to be wonderful! The sleeve cap did not have a lot of ease and pretty much eased itself with basting stitches. Before I cut into my fashion fabric, I am going to sew a quick muslin of the dress to see if the jacket hits me where I want it.

If I work really hard and plan some sewing each day, I should be able to finish the jacket and the rest of the garments by the end of the contest. The jacket is the only garment that will take the longest to make. I've made the skirt and tank top before and the knit cardigan shouldn't be that difficult.

I'll post my progress as I forge ahead!

L

Mini Wardrobe Tentative Plan

2011-03-05T22:14:00.000-05:00

I am slowly returning to the sewing room. The first two months of 2011 were busy, to say the least. I did little to no sewing and am excited about getting my sew-jo back. The mini wardrobe contest started a few days ago on PR. The premise is the same: sew four coordinating garments in one month. The twist is that a fifth existing garment has to go along with your set. This shouldn't be a problem as I have lots of ways to work in the twist with my tentative plan. Speaking of plans...

I actually have a plan! I swore off making plans and story boards because in the past, my interest waned significantly once I started sewing. Hopefully four garments won't be too overwhelming and I'll be able to get it done in time. If not, no biggies. I am not going to pressure myself to get it done. So here is my tentative plan, subject to change at the blink of an eye, popped seam, or ill-fitting bust area.

(click image to enlarge)

Patterns (in order from upper left):

Butterick 5328 (black stretch cotton poplin)
Simplicity 2422 (coral stretch cotton pique)
Jalie 965 (white rayon knit)
Burda 7866 (coral rayon knit)
Jalie 2908 (black stretch denim)
New Look 6300 (black & white cotton print - not pictured)
Christine Jonson 630 (black/gray/white knit)

At first I was concerned that the plan seemed too dark. Spring is usually filled with light, fresh pastels and here I am channeling Darth Vader. Oh well. I like what I have so far and I can branch off of this palette to start another collection. In fact, the coral jacket will match nicely with another cotton print that is patiently waiting to become a skirt.

I actually feel kinda good about the patterns I selected. I made J965, J2908, and NL6300 multiple times. At Christine Jonson's open house last year, I was given the opportunity to try on several of her samples - including CJ630. I'll only need to shorten the skirt and drop the bust seam a bit. Burda 7866 is loose fitting and appears really easy to make. I completed the muslin for S2422 and am satisfied with the fit (more on this later). The only pattern that may take some work is B5328, so I'll work on this last. That way, if I don't get to finish at least I'll have met the contest requirements with the other garments.

I would start talking about the construction of the Simplicity jacket, but since I don't have enough freakin' fabric to cut out the jacket, I guess I'll have to wait. GRRRRRR... Don't you just hate when that happens? I have --> <-- much fabric left and it is not enough to cut the under collar or sleeve facing. I have tried several creative layouts to no avail. I may have to cut the under collar out of something else. Hopefully I can find a fabric with similar stretch and weight. Sigh.

Until next time!

L

Developing a Bodice Sloper: Final Days & Verdict

2011-02-28T09:04:00.003-05:00

It's over.

After eight weeks (seven if you count the one I missed), I am not sure that I am any closer to a good fitting bodice sloper than I was in the beginning. Admittedly, part of the reason for this is my severe drop in motivation right around the fifth week. I began to have doubts about the fit, pattern, and overall adjustments made and hence failed to put forth any more effort.

I learned a lot about flat-pattern measuring and alternative ways to make pattern adjustments. This information is certainly valuable and has been quite useful already. The instructor was really nice and patient. With all that's going on around me, I had to make a choice about what battles to fight. This was not one of them. I humbly waived my white muslin flag in surrender.

So the hunt for a bodice sloper is still on. I would like to try Kenneth King's Moulage method next. Having taken a class from him in the past and reading successes from those who have tried his method, I am excited about it. I will likely return to developing a bodice sloper sometime during Summer. As of now, I plan to work on the mini wardrobe contest on PR and sewing some garments for major fun coming up this Spring.

I have woven shirts and jackets in queue for sewing. I have resolved to be one with the fit and just make it work. The garments may not fit perfectly, but I won't be naked. =)

I'll post my tentative wardrobe plan soon.

L

What the Hell?

2011-02-13T20:00:00.002-05:00

I know I'm supposed to be talking about the last two days of developing my bodice sloper, but as the process has come to a grinding halt (details to follow later), I will write about something else.

The Grammy Awards are tonight. I haven't watched any award show since...what...eighth grade? I am simply not interested. In surfing the web, I came across a site that has pictures of what some of the attendants are wearing. Okay, I get it. You desire to be "out there" with your look. Lady Gaga (who the hell is that?) arrives in an egg. News Flash: It's been done already. Michael Jackson slept in an oxygen chamber or incubator or something. Get a new gig, gaga.

What is this??!

Um. No.

I don't know who you are, but honey, you need a bodice sloper in the worst way. A little spanx, boning, or a new dress might help.

L

Developing a Bodice Sloper: Days 3 & 4

2011-02-03T08:10:00.002-05:00

I'm a bit behind in updating as I went out of town last weekend and haven't had the time (or energy) to write about the last two days of class. Honestly, there really isn't much to report. We worked on adjusting the skirt pattern to fit match the circumference of the bodice. I think I was supposed to cut and attach the bodice to the skirt in preparation for today's class. Yeah, that didn't happen. I suppose I'll do that today in class. The instructor said that the bodice can't really be fitted without the skirt. Hmm...oookay. On to day 5...

L

Developing a Bodice Sloper: Day 2

2011-01-17T14:52:00.000-05:00

Before I go into details about the second day of my sloper class, I have to vent. I consider myself an advanced beginning sewer because there are some techniques that I have yet to try or master. For example, I have never sewn a collar with stand, worked more than one buttonhole on a shirt, made a shirt that fit, or sewed a decent-looking lapped zipper without help.

After today's class, I may increase my level to 'intermediate' anyway because I knew a helluva lot more than almost everyone else. There is one other student who designs clothing and she knows what she's doing. She and I worked alone for most of the time doing our own thing. Folks didn't know how to measure patterns without darts or seamlines, true seams, adjust patterns by slashing/spreading and a bunch of other basic stuff. The suggested skill level for this class is quite high, but apparently not verified. Sigh. Vent over. Now on to the good stuff...

Today we traced our front and back bodice pieces and made alterations. This table shows the adjustments on which I focused.

	Body Meas.	Ease	Needed for Pattern	Actual Pattern Meas.	Adjustment
full bust	*	2	*	*	+1.75
full front	*	1	*	*	+4
bust point	*	-	*	*	+0.5
waist	*	1	*	*	+6
front waist length	*	-	*	*	+1.125
back waist length	*	-	*	*	-1
shoulder depth	*	-	*	*	0
full back	*	-	*	*	-1.75

Bust Point & Front Waist Length

bust point: +0.5
front waist length: +1.125

The first thing to do was to add length to lower the bust point so that the bust darts are in the correct positions. I found it interesting that the instructor said not to move the dart itself. Some books tell you to draw a box around the dart and lower it so that it's in the right spot. She said that darts are in their proper places upon drafting and need to be adjusted by adding length above the dart only. Interesting. The red lines show where length was added from left to right. This alteration came before the full bust adjustment so that's why the line is crooked.

The total front waist length adjustment is 1.125 inches. Since one-half an inch in length was added to lower the bust point, the front waist length adjustment is actually smaller. Instead of adding 1.125 inches, I only need to add 0.625" in length. I don't recall adding the extra length to the front, so I'll have to ask the instructor about this at the next class.

Back Waist Length
The back waist length is the length of the back from neckline to waist at the center. I took out a 1" wedge at the waistline for this adjustment. This amounts to correcting the pattern for a swayback. I think I need more than one inch; we'll see if that's the case in muslin.

Full Front, Full Bust, & Waist

full front: +4"
full bust: +1.75"
waist: +6"

My full bust measures 1.75" larger than that of the pattern (front and back). Normally, I would make a 7/8 or 1" FBA. The problem is that not all of the fullness is equally distributed in the front and back. The full front measurement (which only considers the distance from side to side across the front) shows a 4" difference. This means two things: (1) I need a 2" FBA in the front, and (2) I have to take out some of the extra width from the back. I never would have thought of taking width out of the back, but I suppose it makes sense. Perhaps this is why after completing an FBA, the back always feels too loose and the center front of the muslin never reaches my center front.

To determine the amount to remove from the back, we looked at the difference between the full front and full bust adjustment values, and divided the result by 2: (4 - 1.75)/2 = 1.125. We divide by two since the adjustment is made on one pattern piece.

The red area shows where I removed 1.125 inches by slicing from shoulder to just above the armhole-side seam and overlapping. This alteration caused the side seam to rise about 0.75 inches (top blue wedge). To ensure that the front and back side seams matched, I added extra length (bottom blue wedge).

To adjust the front, I slashed through the vertical dart, the bust point, all the way up to the shoulder seam. I also slashed the horizontal dart from cutting line to bust point, creating a hinge. I spread the pattern apart 2" at the bust point, tapering to 1.5" at the waistline.

Since I needed an extra 6" at the waist, I divided this number by 4 to determine how much to add onto the front piece. As I write this, I now question the validity of this calculation. Wouldn't the same issues about equal distribution of fullness be present at the waist too? Again, I'll have to go to the instructor on this one.

The black lines show the new size of the horizontal dart. Can you say, ginormous? Sigh.

This is as far as I got. By this time, class was over and other people consumed most of the time. I did another check of my pattern measurements and found that there are still things that need correcting:

The front and back side seams are off by one-half inch.
The waist is 3 inches too small; something has to be added to the back, apparently.
I have to ask about the front waist length addition of 0.625".
What about the full back adjustment? Wasn't I supposed to take out 1.75" or can I ignore it since I took out 1.125 inches already?

For the next class, we are to trace our "completed" bodice patterns onto another piece of paper and have the sleeve and skirt ready. Hmf. Skirts aren't my problem; bodices are. I am not going to trace anything new until I have the issues with this bodice worked out.

L

Developing a Bodice Sloper: Day 1

2011-01-09T09:03:00.005-05:00

It is pretty well known that I have been on a mission to sew a fitted blouse. I've gone through countless muslins, patterns, and FBAs over the years, but have not succeeded in getting the bodice to fit. If the bodice fits well, the sleeves are a mess. If the sleeves fit, the back is too tight. One fitting triumph produces another fitting failure and the miserable cycle continues.

I took a bodice sloper class a couple of years ago with mediocre end results. The sloper doesn't have sleeves (wtf!) and I never learned how to use it to adjust other patterns. Grr... Since I don't give up easily, I decided to enroll in another bodice sloper class. By the end of eight weeks, we should have a customized bodice, sleeve, and skirt sloper. I was skeptical about taking the class at first because we are developing the sloper from a commercial pattern (been there, done that). However after having the first class, I am more optimistic as I've learned much more about where my fit issues occur.

Day 1

Picking the pattern
To make the sloper, we're using one of two fitting shells: Butterick 5746 or Vogue 1004. I chose the Vogue pattern because it was the one on sale at the time. Both patterns are very similar - if not identical. The Vogue pattern has one view with a CF zipper, back shoulder darts, and back/front vertical and horizontal darts. The Vogue pattern also includes different cup sizes; I don't know if Butterick the same.

V1004

The Butterick pattern has an additional view for reasons that I don't know. As you can see, view A is the same as the Vogue pattern.

B5746

Taking measurements
We had to take a series of measurements on both the body and on the pattern:

bust point: distance from the neckline (resting place for simple necklace) to the bust point
full bust: circumference around the fullest part of the bust
full front: length around fullest part of the bust from approximate side to side
waist: circumference at natural waist
abdomen: all the extra fluff (about 2" below natural waist)
waist front: length from neckline over the bust point to the natural waist
waist back: length from neckline to the waist at the center back
shoulder to elbow: length from shoulder joint to elbow, arm slightly bent
shoulder to wrist: length from shoulder joint to wrist bone (or desired equivalent)
shoulder depth: length from neckline to shoulder joint
shoulder width (front): length from joint to joint
shoulder width (back): length from mid armhole to mid armhole across the back
bicep: circumference around fullest part of the upper arm

After identifying these measurements on the pattern, I created a chart that compares both sets of numbers. The instructor suggests that we use 2 inches of fit ease at the bust and full hip and 1 inch of ease at the waist.

The biggest observation I had was the difference between the full front measurements.

	Body Meas.	Ease	Needed for Pattern	Actual Pattern Meas.	Adj.
full bust	*	2	*	*	+1.75
full front	*	1	*	*	+4

(*omitted data)

If I use the FB measurement, I have to make an FBA of 0.875 inches (one-half of 1.75). This adjustment would not have been enough because there is a 4-inch difference between my body and the pattern's full front measurements (no wonder my FBAs never quite worked). Even though I have a broad back, more than half of my FB measurement comes from the front. The instructor said that we'll adjust to match the FF measurement and remove extra width from the back. I am not quite certain why we are removing extra width from the back, but the instructor assured me that this is what needs to happen. Since she's the one with 30+ years of experience, I assume she knows what she's talking about. =)

In the next class, we will make adjustments to the pattern according to our comparison chart and prepare to sew the first muslin.

On Snoop Shopping...
Thank you all for commenting. I like to read/see how others approach sewing and fitting and it's nice to learn about your experiences.

Heather asked: "That brown Muse-like dress looks hot on you, Lynnelle -- did you wind up sewing the Butterick 5353?"

No, I didn't make the Muse dress. After several muslins, I couldn't get the neck yoke to behave properly. I ended up making Simplicity 2648; my review is here.

The Benefits of Snoop Shopping

2011-01-06T07:57:00.006-05:00

In May of last year, my dear friend Melody and I went snoop shopping for dresses. I was having a hard time fitting a pattern for a cocktail dress and I was getting extremely frustrated. She suggested that we go to the mall and see if there are styles that flatter my body type. What an eye-opening experience! I cannot stress enough the huge benefits of snoop shopping!

It all started with my decision to make a dress for the PR Weekend-Montreal cocktail party. Making the dress was completely optional, but how can I go to a sewing-themed cocktail party and not wear something I made?! I made five muslins of Butterick 5353 which only stood to increase my frustration after I couldn't get the neck yoke to fit properly. Grr...

So, off to the mall we went. We went in search of dresses and styles that may be better suited for my body. We visited Ann Taylor, Lord & Taylor, Macy's, Nordstrom, and possibly one other store. She wouldn't let me go to Sears or JCPenney and with good reason. She said that designers don't make quality clothes for discount retailers and that to get a good idea of fit and construction, it is better to shop at the higher-end stores. Makes sense.

First up is the Ann Taylor store.

I think the dress looks good from the front. The back, however, showed me why I might struggle so much with bodice fit. I have a massive upper back! If I wasn't a girl, I'd probably try out for the Lions. The dress was a size 12 and was snug in some areas - as you can see.

This dress had a midriff band and thin bodice straps. Ugh, the back! The angle of the armhole area makes my back appear even wider by showing too much skin.

We tried this dress because of the v-neckline. The same problems persist, though the back doesn't appear as wide because the cut of the armhole isn't as angled. All of the dresses were way too long.

Next we went to Lord & Taylor. With this group of dresses, we realized that a size 12 in Ann Taylor was NOT the same as a size 12 with designers for L&T. The Ann Taylor draft appears to be more forgiving of curves and affinities for chocolate.

We both liked this dress. It was definitely too snug, but it had lots of potential design-wise. The bodice had armhole princess seams and a waist seam - designs that are a busty chick's best friend. The bodice style seemed to help minimize my broad back. The front overlay was just too cute!

Um....no. Hell no. Let's do the math: full busts + ruffles = hot ass mess. Keep it moving.

I think the expression on my face says it all about this one. Melody literally started jumping up and down in the dressing room when she saw me with this one. She really liked it. I, on the other hand, was not that impressed! I have to admit though, after staring at this for a few months now, the style is growing on me. I think the folds are still too full and the dress too long. Maybe with some alterations, I can make it work.

We both liked this one. This dress has neckline pleats and a ruched midriff band. Even the print is hot. Winner! We were thinking view A of this New Look pattern can be adapted to knock this off.

This is the actual Suzi Chin dress on which Butterick 5490 is based. It's not too bad.

The dress on the left is another take of the Muse dress (Butterick 5353) I was trying to fit in the beginning. The designer isn't Muse, but the style lines are exactly the same. The dress was made with a stretch cotton sateen. The pink dress is the Muse dress. The fabric was a non-stretch cotton pique. There are elements of both versions that appeal to me. I like the close fit of the brown dress on the skirt only. I like the loose fit of the pink dress doesn't call as much attention to my bust as in the brown dress.

We saw this one at Nordstrom's. We both could not decide what it was that made this so unattractive. We think was the mock pleated bodice, insanely high empire seam, and hideous print that made this a RTW-wadder.

Thanks to Melody's amazing help and guidance, I now recognize the benefits of snoop shopping. This experience has showed me how certain styles, fabrics, and design elements will wear on my body. Knowing this arms me with more information on how to select patterns and fabric. Thanks Mel!

Anyone else ever go snoop shopping? If so, what were your experiences?

L

Sewing Year in Review

2010-12-26T21:06:00.005-05:00

It's that time to reflect on my sewing adventures over the past year. Having sewn for almost seven years now, I can say that my skill and technique has improved - along with my patience and speed in which I recover from epic sewing failures. On with the summary...

Successes:

I sewed a total of 21 wearable garments ranging in a variety of fibers and weaves. Alas, the fitted woven blouse is still a challenge, but I have confidence that success is near! I made:

3 toppers: Simplicity 2603, Simplicity 2560 (x2)

2 dresses: Simplicity 2648, Simplicity 2804

10 tops: Simplicity 2804, Kwik Sew 3179, Butterick 5355, Simplicity 2599 (x2), Kwik Sew 2667 (x2), Jalie 965 (x2), Jalie 2805

3 pairs of pants: Jalie 2908 (x2), Simplicity 2860

3 skirts: McCall's 5523, New Look 6300 (x2)

I wrote reviews for about half of these garments on Pattern Review. I have a review for the jeans (woo hoo!) in progress; I have to get pictures of the second pair. I should be able to post it soon.

Failures/Wadders/Garments yet to be:

Looking at my list, one may think that I hardly sew. That isn't the case, trust! Because I am trying to find my fit-niche, I spend a lot of time working on muslins. Having taken a quick look at my digital archive of patterns, I found that I tested at least 26 patterns. 26! 4 of these tests became garments on the 'successes' list. The other 22...well...are either in a landfill or awaiting further testing.

2011 Intentions:

I intend to continue working on fitting and honing my sewing skill. I am starting off the year by taking an eight-week bodice sloper class. Hopefully, I'll be able to make some significant headway in that area of sewing.

Then I would like to refine the fit of my pants sloper so that I can make some pants to go along with these kick-ass fitted blouses.

I intend to develop a wardrobe that better reflects me, my age, profession, and lifestyle. Though I do not follow trends, I desire to add pieces that are casual, chic, and feminine. I own too much denim and not enough silk

Finally, I intend to pare down the amount of fabric I buy and sew much more from my stash. I have A LOT of fabric. Too much, really. I am not going on a fabric fast, just being a lot more mindful of what I buy, when, and why.

That's it for now. I hope everyone has a wonderful new year! Be well.

L~

If You Can't Beat 'Em... & Quick Update

2010-12-20T09:09:00.010-05:00

Long time, no post. I have lots to update since my last visit. The end of the semester is always hectic and when coupled with lots of other issues, blogging and sewing unfortunately take a back seat. Many thanks to Faye for checking up on me. I am genuinely touched by your concern. *hugs* Now that I am on break (hallelujah!), hopefully I can post more often.

I did make some progress on the sequin top. The last time I worked on this top, I was having problems getting the strand of sequins to lie in a straight line. While shopping at what may be my last trip to JoAnn's (grr...that's whole 'nother issue...), I found some sequin trim that intentionally incorporates the wiggles. So, instead of

I have

I like this look much better than the last. I have more sequin trim to adorn other garments. A couple of months ago, I made another DKNY cardi-wrap using Simplicity 2603. I plan to knock-off her idea by adding sequined trim along the hemline. If all goes well, I will have one that looks like the gray version.

Coming up next on Project YS, G!, I made jeans! Woot! My first pair fit wonderfully, but have many errors - some of which that became painfully obvious after the first wash. I am currently working on my second pair which are much better constructed. I hope to post pictures soon. I also intend to do a small year-end review of my 2010 sewing adventure.

I hope everyone has been well. Enjoy!

L~

Progress Update: Knit Tank & Sequins

2010-10-28T20:57:00.004-04:00

Hand-sewing sequins is not difficult at all. Getting these little buggers to line up nicely is another thing. At first, I was kind of digging the wiggly look. Then by some force of nature, I managed to attach the sequins without wiggles. Near the neckline, the sequins seem to behave and follow a more uniform line. Hmm...

What do you think? Should I keep going or start over?

L

I am Loving Sequins Right Now

2010-10-25T08:53:00.001-04:00

Lately, I have developed an attraction for sequins (silver, gold, copper, etc.) and all things shiny. I don't really follow trends, so I am not sure where this new-found liking is coming from. It sort of crept up on me during the summer and was put into overdrive when I saw Deepika's fabric. She snagged a seriously smoking all-over sequined top from Haberman's Fabrics at this year's American Sewing Expo. I. Love. This. Fabric.

(picture is of her fitting the neckline with tucks)

After seeing this, I started searching the internet for ideas of how to incorporate these details into my garments. Last weekend, I made a knit tank top using Jalie 965 and a black rayon slubbed knit from Fabric.com. Having already made J965 in black slinky, I wanted to add some sort of embellishment to this newest version. I bought a spool of silver single-strand sequins and started designing some layouts. Here are my options:

(click on image for a better view)

Of the five designs (starting at the upper left corner), I like numbers two, four, and five the best. The third design would hide the sequins in the hem and the first doesn't do anything for me. I am leaning toward design four because it's simple and busy (is that even possible?). However, crossing the lines of sequins might create unsightly humps and bumps. Designs two and five are also very cool. I wonder, though, how difficult it will be to keep the curved lines uniform.

I was so eager to finish the tank top, that I didn't think to embellish the front before sewing the side seams. Oh well. I am not picking out those stitches. I'll just have to channel my inner Tim Gunn and make it work!

Do you like sequins? Have you ever sewn with them? Am I in over my head? =)

Off topic...
Thanks for the comment, Rachelle. You're probably right; I need to stop trippin! =) I'll take a photo while wearing the top. Let me know what you think!

L

The Verdict on HP 1099: Meh.

2010-10-24T08:56:00.006-04:00

Last weekend, I took some time to work on TDHP (That Damn Hot Patterns) 1099. Where do I begin?

Oy vey. The sleeve! Previously, I noticed that the sleeve cap had an insane amount of ease. Set-in sleeve caps have extra length that is eased into the armhole, right?. HP1099's sleeve is designed to be set in flat! The shape of the sleeve cap is actually quite nice. The length of the sleeve cap from back to shoulder is longer and angled differently than that of front to shoulder length I like the design of this sleeve cap because most of us are not the same length or shape in these areas and the differences appear to make for a better fit.

The picture above isn't that of the HP 1099 sleeve pattern. I found this online just to illustrate the idea. I would take a picture of my pattern, but it's currently in hibernation - never to see the light of day for a long, long time.

To take out some of the ease, I slashed the sleeve cap from the shoulder point to within 5/8" of the bottom of the sleeve. I attempted to slash to the hem, but the folds were just too deep to reconcile. I overlapped the cap 1 inch, removing 2" of ease. Would you believe that this still wasn't enough? I cut out a test sleeve to sew in a previously constructed muslin. There was still about a half an inch of extra length on both the front and back of the sleeve cap. So, again I slashed the front and back and overlapped the cap by about 1/2" - thus removing over an inch of length. Finally, this worked and I was able to sew the sleeve in flat without any puckers.

Having attempted the collar several times, I was able to sew this one without incident. It's still not perfect. Unless I point out the errors, I don't think anyone will ever know.

Overall the bust fit is quite good, but I am not totally satisfied with the pattern. The top is boxy and wears more like a jacket than a blouse. If I decide to sew it again, I will likely use a much heavier fabric.

I haven't done the hems or buttons yet because...well...I got tired of working on it and I am disappointed with the final result. When I do finish, I will wear it. In the meantime, here are some parting photos:

front with gaping hem

boxy back

top with buttons

Currently in queue are two projects: the new Simplicity jacket (2284) and a black knit tank top that needs embellishment. I'll be blogging on both soon.

Until next time,

L

Planning & 7 Deadly Sins

2010-10-14T20:52:00.003-04:00

My sewing hit a brick wall with the New Look skirt. I have no pictures to share because I cut that joker up and threw it in the trash. The fit was terrible and I had Z.E.R.O. motivation to finish it - even for charity. I felt an enormous weight lift when I tossed it. Now I can work on something else. Since being sick, I am slow to return to the sewing room.

In the meantime, I am planning my next projects. The Endless Combinations contest is coming up on Pattern Review and I've already got some ideas in mind. I'm keeping that on the low for now, though. =)

Switching gears, I saw this on Adrienne's Blog a few days ago:

The 7 Deadly Sins...
Day 1 - Pride. Seven great things about yourself.

Day 2 - Envy. Seven things you lack and covet.

Day 3 - Wrath. Seven things that piss you off.

Day 4 - Sloth. Seven things you neglect to do.

Day 5 - Greed. Seven worldly material desires.

Day 6 - Gluttony. Seven guilty pleasures.

Day 7 - Lust. Seven love secrets.

Let's see how long I play with this one. =)

Until next time!

L

Woo! What a Month!

2010-10-04T20:42:00.004-04:00

For the better part of September, I was ill. My illness manifested itself the form of extreme fatigue, increased appetite, and nausea. Wait. Hold up! It was NOT a baby, I assure you! Without going into detail, I am happy to say that I am feeling much better and am on the road to resuming my normal daily activities.

I went roller skating for the first time in three weeks (gasp) on Friday. This is a big deal for me since I normally roll twice per week. One of my skate buddies wondered if I had died. Ummmm... Oookay. Like I said, it's a big deal. I still sleep a lot (11 hours this past Saturday), but at least it is nearly not as bad as it was a couple of weeks ago.

I attended the American Sewing Expo last weekend and had a wonderful time. I got to meet up with my dear friend Deepika and share many lasting memories with Melody, Sharon, Rachelle, Tina, EveS, Leslie (in Austin), Tenia, KBurkhardt, KristineKay, and many more (sorry names are escaping me right now). Even though I didn't take any classes, I enjoyed every single moment of the Expo. Pictures? Well...see...what had happened was... I'll have to grab photos from someone and post them here.

On the sewing front, my machines saw power for the first time yesterday. I finally had the energy to sit down and sew. I sewed for about two hours straight and completed another version of the Simplicity Cardi Wrap 2603. I am working to complete some projects and commitments that I started in August - one of which is a small 6-piece wardrobe, referred to as a 6PAC. The idea is to create a small set of coordinating clothes for the current season in three months. The current 6PAC is as follows:

Skirt or trousers (neutral)
3 blouses/tops (1 to match bottom, 2 to complement)
Cardigan (to match skirt/trousers)
Coat or jacket (coordinating neutral)

Since the start of the sew along, I've completed four garments - not totally following the plan, though.

The items in green text are already completed. Up next is the New Look skirt and another attempt at TDHP1099 (That Damn Hot Patterns) blouse.

I hope everyone is doing well.

Until next time,

L~

Fall Sewing & Lady Grey

2010-09-13T18:15:00.004-04:00

Who turned off the heat?? Literally, the outdoor temperature went from a high of 80F on one day to a high of 60F on the next day. Damn northern states. That's what the weather is like in Michigan. It's never a gradual increase or decrease. One day, it's hot. The next day, it's Arctic. Oh well, whatareyagonnado?

Since Fall is upon us, I have switched to fall sewing mode. I've actually been in fall sewing mode for a while, but I guess I'm finally making it official. Since school started for me as well, my sewing time has drastically decreased. I am still putting projects together, but I have to be more diligent with managing my time.

My fall wardrobe colours right now consist of purples, grays, cream, rust, and a soft shade of green. I am hoping to overlap some pieces with a second fall wardrobe. We'll see how that goes.

Anyway, I am looking forward to participating in the Lady Grey Sew Along. I still don't have a fabric picked out, but I've been eying this wool coating on Fabric.com

I am not a fan of pink. At all. Bu, I am loving this nubby fabric. The fabric is described as heavyweight, so I don't know if this is an appropriate weight for the coat.

I could also go with something plain like this wool blend from Fabric.com. Meh.

Melody at Fashionista Fabrics has this fiery red wool coating. Mmm..

I've never ordered anything from Fabric Mart, but their new batch of Shetland wools are very tempting. This one is called 'heathered palm'.

Decisions, decisions. I think I'll focus on getting the muslin together before I buy fabric.

I need to do some job-related work now. I haven't been feeling well the last couple of days, so I have lots of work to do and need to make the most of the time where I feel okay.

L~

As If I Don't Already Have Enough To Do...

2010-08-27T19:55:00.005-04:00

I have two skirts in the works, a cardi wrap, and two muslins for a knit and woven top. To add to that, I have now decided to join the Lady Grey Pattern Sew Along after reading Faye's latest post. I've had this pattern for a couple of months and just adore everything about it. The vintage vibe missed me, but this coat beckons me to make it. If I am able to finish the coat during the sew along, then that's great. Otherwise, it will be good to see everyone's progress and creations.

Are you participating in any sew alongs and if so, which ones?

L

Hand Update

2010-08-20T19:33:00.002-04:00

Thanks to everyone who sent me well wishes! *hug*

My hand is doing much better. The swelling has gone down and there are no blisters! There are still a couple of tender spots, but I'm not in pain. I have enough dressing and ointment to last a few days, so I'll continue to treat and wrap it. The good thing is I can type well and perhaps sew a bit.

Many thanks again to everyone!

L

No Sewing or Typing...

2010-08-19T16:03:00.001-04:00

What do you get when you mix scolding hot liquid and human skin?

...and a string of words that would make Richard Pryor blush.

I was preparing this yummy lentil and pan-fry vegetable mix for lunch earlier today. Since the recipe calls for vegetable stock, I decide to make my own. I've done this a number of times for soups and other meals, so it was no big deal. My intention was to make a couple of quarts of stock today and freeze what's left for another meal. When I went to pour the stock into another dish, I lost my grip on the pot of fresh-off-the-burner liquid and...SPLASH! There is vegetable juice everywhere including my left hand. Sigh. A trip to the urgent care revealed that I may have a 1st or 2nd degree burn. If my hand doesn't start to blister, then I likely have a 1st degree burn and it should heal normally. In the meantime, I have to apply an ointment 3 times per day and keep my hand wrapped in gauze. So...um...yeah...no sewing going on for now.

I will finish the dish later today...maybe. =)

L

Another New Skirt: M5523

2010-08-18T21:54:00.000-04:00

I've had this pattern in my stash for quite some time. It's been worked in and out of the sewing queue for a while and I finally decided to sit down and make it. I made it for my second entry to the Natural Fibers Contest on PR.

Fabric:
I made an unlined version of view B (the one with the pleated inset) out of a 100% wool gabardine. This was a really nice fabric. The weight of this piece was perfect for pants, a structured jacket, or skirt. But, there is a disadvantage of which I was not aware. This stuff does NOT press well at all. After I had fussed with it for a couple of days, I read in Betzina's More Fabric Savvy that wool gabardine is a great wrinkle resister. No shit, lady. It's also a great iron resister! I had to use a lot of steam, mist, and a clapper at least twice per seam and the pleats just to get a decent press.

Its still got some wrinkly areas that need addressing. I'll take it to my dry cleaners and let them have at it. I am so over pressing this darn thing. =)

Fitting and Alterations:
For the first time in a long time, I did not make a muslin. I just went for it! When I say I am the muslin queen, I really mean it. I make a muslin for everything. Not this time. Having considered the finished garment measurements (43.5"), I cut a size 16.

I made two alterations. First, I shortened the pattern by 2". The finished length is 23" and on the model, it looks like the hem comes to her knees. In comparing other skirts that I have, I found that 2o - 21" is a good length for my height.

Next, I made the trunk-junk alteration. Since the back princess seams, I had to alter each piece separately. The alteration is similar to that of inserting a wedge at the center back seam. I spread the center back panel 1.25" across the entire piece. Then, I spread the side back panel 1.25", tapering to nothing at the side seam. This alteration is an absolute must for me to keep the hem level.

I basted the side seams to check fit. I found that the skirt fit well in the waist, but was a bit wide from mid thigh to the hem. So, I increased the seam allowance to 0.75" from that point down. I like this much better.

Construction:
Instead of using a lapped zipper, I inserted an invisible zipper. I love invisible zippers, but my last two insertions have not been as good as previous ones. Hmf. What's up with that?

I sewed and then serged the seam allowances together. I tried to finish the seam allowances separately, but my serger did not enjoy working on a single layer of gabardine. I had a mess of skipped stitches and loopers not covering the edge. It was a hot mess. I began to think the repair shop did some bad to my serger. Nope. It was definitely the fabric. I had no problem serging the seam allowances together or serging the edge of the interfaced facing. Everything else was an epic fail! To finish the hem, I used an overcast stitch on my sewing machine and topstitched in place.

Conclusion:
In all, I am quite satisfied with this skirt. I am sure this skirt will get a lot of wear this fall and winter. I will definitely try other versions of the pattern as well.

L

A Woven Top? Oh, word?!

2010-08-15T18:15:00.004-04:00

I am really digging the multi-cup Simplicity patterns right now. I had success with S2648 when making this dress. I just finished S2599 and love it!

The fabric is a silk charmeuse that I purchased from Vogue Fabrics last year. I bought this fabric with the intention of making a skirt, but I just couldn't find a pattern that I liked. I chose to make this top last weekend in an effort to make the Natural Fibers Contest deadline on Tuesday, 10 Aug.

Since I am the Muslin Queen, I stayed true to form and made a muslin. I cut a size 14 in the neckline and shoulders and a 16 in the armhole. I used the D cup pattern and a size 18 on the sides. I was thrilled that the top fit pretty well without any alteration. Initially, I was concerned about the ruffles emphasizing my bust. Fortunately, the ruffles do not call extra attention up top. In fact, I think they add a nice detail to the neckline.

I finished the side and shoulder seams using french seams. I bound the neckline and armholes using satin bias tape. The pattern includes facings, but I just wasn't in the mood.

I will definitely sew more versions of this pattern. I am also inclined to try out other multi-cup Simplicity patterns. Simplicity, you have made the good list...for now. =)

Trente-Cinq

2010-08-08T16:23:00.003-04:00

5:12pm today marks the thirty-fifth anniversary of my hatching. Woo-hoo!

The &$*#%@ Hot Patterns 1099 Collar

2010-07-29T14:29:00.002-04:00

Hot Patterns, I am not a fan.

Any sewer who knows me knows that I have been on a seemingly endless journey in trying to make woven blouses fit my 'cups that runneth over' (thanks Lareine in NZ). I have used countless yards of muslin and tried nine different patterns only to be disappointed each time.

Having read Michellep74 and Debbie Cook's reviews of HP 1099, I decided to give it a try. I had already tried nine patterns, why not round out the list to ten?

Using my full bust measurement, I traced and cut a straight size 16. To my delight, the shirt almost fit.

I was shocked. You just don't understand how looooooong of a process this has been. Muslin after muslin after muslin. Fit this. Pinch that. Take this in. Let this out. Nope. Fail.

I finally had a pattern that fits with minimal adjustments. To help relax the pulling at the apex level, I added just a tiny bit to the side front pattern piece and pinned in the princess seams on the back.

Thinking this pattern would be a TNT blouse pattern, I wanted to test the fit in a stretch woven. I would like to have blouses in stretch and non-stretch wovens so it seemed natural for this to be the next step.

I cut out the pieces using a nice stretch woven pinstripe I picked up from Vogue Fabrics last year. I used my good no-longer-available-for-purchase interfacing and proceeded with construction.

Ummmm...no. This is not right. I figured that the collar and lapel were to be attached, but I didn't know how. You see, there were absolutely positively NO markings on either the collar, facing, or center front of the pattern. None. Zero. Additionally, the instructions were as useful as sunscreen on the planet Mercury.

Hot Patterns makes the disclaimer that their patterns are designed for those who have some sewing knowledge. Okay. I get that. But damn, can I get a dot, notch, triangle, or something? I consulted books, magazines, the internet, and other patterns to see what was missing and where. My research showed that there are supposed to be collar dots, neck dots, and notches to help match the pieces as well as instruct you on where to stop/start sewing, pivot, and clip. Was any of this included in the pattern? Nope. Is it too much for me to ask of these things? I don't think so.

I started a discussion on Pattern Review to see what other information I could find. Many thanks to Michellep74 for interrupting her sewing queue to include another version of the HP top. She posted detailed pictures along with commentary for each step. Additionally, other PR members chimed in with their tips. If you ever decide to try this shirt or any other HP pattern with a notched collar, do check out the discussion. I found it extremely useful and, after six tries, I finally got the collar attached.

The sleeves on this pattern are another nightmare. According to the ~~instructions~~ blurbs that appear on the pattern sheet, the sleeves are supposed to be sewn in flat. That is not going to happen as there is an enormous amount of ease in the sleeve cap. I took out 0.75 inches of width and pinched in four (!!!) pleats using 0.5-inch folds to get the sleeve cap length to match the armhole.

Meh. It's okay, but not the look I wanted. Unreal.

I have non-stretch woven out of which I will cut the next version of this pattern. This won't happen until I figure out the sleeve issue. I have enough of this blue pinstripe to cut out more sleeves if necessary. No more wasting the good stuff!

This experience has soured me on anything Hot Patterns. Really. I've heard other uninspiring tales about their instructions for other patterns. I like their styles and I am all about supporting independent pattern companies. Yet, I tread with caution because I do not have the patience to spend many hours on something that is not drafted properly or is missing match points.

Whew. What a rant! I don't mean to sound so negative; I just want a shirt that fits. To have come this far only to have my efforts thwarted by a freakin' collar and a poorly drafted sleeve just doesn't seem right!

Until next time,

L

Jalie 2561: Part 2 (fitting the back) & Zipper Construction

2010-07-25T09:10:00.010-04:00

Fitting the Back
Since I can't find any pictures of the back, I took a look at the pattern pieces again. For some reason, I thought fitting the back was much more involved. I must be confusing this fitting series with that of Jalie 2908 which (after five...yes...five muslins) still doesn't fit.

The backs of my thighs aren't as muscular as the front so trouser pants end up being too baggy in this area. To remove some of the fullness, I took out 0.75 inches of width by using the same alteration as the front. The procedure is exactly the same, except you overlap the intersection instead of spread it apart.

The back crotch curve wasn't too bad out of the envelope. Usually, I have to add some length to the curve for all that trunk junk. Since I am using the wider waistband that comes with this pattern, I didn't see any problems. I did scoop the crotch curve a little at the 'hook' part of the curve.

Construction
I am having a serious moment. I started sewing the pants a couple of days ago and have reached a point in the construction where my frustration level is near its maximum. Everything was going smoothly until I encountered the zipper insertion. Normally, I don't have much trouble with fly front zippers but the method Jalie uses in this pattern has me stumped and on the verge of swearing profusely.

I should have known that trouble was brewing when I saw that the outer and inner seams were sewn before the zipper was inserted. Additionally, I should have paid more attention to the fact that the fly front is not cut-on. In other words, you have to sew the fly front and facing to the center front. This creates unnecessary bulk and since my fabric ravels like crazy, this also creates unnecessary headaches.

Having faith that the instructions would lead to beautiful results, I proceeded. I was wrong. I had to pick out the zipper twice. I got so far as attaching the waistband and trying on the pants. Hot. Ass. Mess. I really wanted to enter these into the Natural Fibers Contest on PR, but I can't do it with the zipper looking like this.

So out comes the seam ripper. I took out the zipper and un-stitched the side seams. I also cut another fly front and sewed it to the right front pants with the intention of using Sandra Betzina's Fly Front Tutorial.

I inserted the zipper, again. Strike Two. Hot. Ass. Mess. Again. I don't know what's going on, but this just isn't working. I am using a really nice 100% tropical wool and I don't want to waste the fabric. I will try one more time, but I am about to go ballistic.

Sigh. Sadly after all of this work and five muslins, this project may not happen out of this fabric. If the next attempt at inserting the zipper does not work, I am going to retire this project and try again later. Much later.

Do you have moments like this? If so, what do you do to overcome them?

L

Jalie 2561: Part 1 (fitting the front)

2010-07-24T09:41:00.018-04:00

I am still on the hunt for good fitting pants. As with woven blouses, I've tried a number of patterns. Up to now, my favourite pants pattern was Vogue 8157. Having made several versions, I could not shake the thought that something was not quite right about the fit. The last pair I made fit terribly and have since been donated to charity.

I came upon Jalie 2561 after meeting a lady named Marie at PR Weekend in Montreal.

We were both amazed at the similarities in our hips, thighs, and legs. She told me that this pattern fit well with minimal alterations. So, naturally, I had to try it.

I am the self-proclaimed muslin queen. I will make a muslin...no...several muslins before I cut into my fashion fabric. Instead of using regular cotton muslin, I dug through my need-to-get-rid-of fabric and found a medium-weight polyester fabric with 1" pinstripes. Why I had four yards of this stuff is a mystery. But, it proved to be quite useful in making the muslin.

I traced and cut a straight size W according to the measurement at the fullest part of my hips. Before sewing the muslin, I removed 3 inches of length for my height. The pinstriped fabric helped to reveal several problems:

the pinstripes were not vertical along the front of my thighs; instead, they curved toward the inseam
the side seam was not perpendicular to the floor
the back showed diagonal wrinkles pointing toward the inseam
the pants were tight across the fullest part of my thighs
the area near the waist seam appeared to be too long

I roller skate, run, bike, and lift weights a lot and, as a result, have very full front thighs. This causes a problem because pants and skirts often get hung up on my thighs. The pattern as drafted did not have enough room to accommodate this fullness.

To determine just how much room I needed, I cut the muslin (on both legs) vertically along one of the pinstripes. The vertical cut begins about an inch or so below the waistband seam and stops just above the knee.

When I did this, everything literally fell into place. The side seam was now perpendicular to the floor and most (not all) of the back wrinkles went away. I am no expert pants fitting, but I think the back wrinkles were caused by the front borrowing fabric from the back to accommodate the front thigh fullness. Maybe this is why all the pull happened at the inseam.

I measured the spread created by the cut to be about 1 3/8 of an inch. I transferred this adjustment to the pattern by using a method similar to the full bicep alteration. The idea is to create vertical and horizontal space in the shape of a diamond. Here's what I did:

1. Draw a line parallel to the grainline from the waistband seam all the way down to the hem. (If your grainline is the line you want to use, draw a second line parallel to this and use this new line as your grain.)

2. Since the alteration affects only the thigh area, I divided the front into two pieces: an upper and lower half. Draw a line perpendicular to the grainline about an inch or so above the knee. On the upper half, draw another line perpendicular to the grainline about an inch or so below the crotch point. Mark the seam allowance at the end of each line drawn.

upper half with lines drawn

lower half

3. Starting at the point of intersection, snip into the pattern along both the vertical and horizontal line. Add the desired amount of width along the vertical line. To help keep the pattern flat, overlap the pattern along the horizontal line.

(Subsequent muslins of the front showed that this alteration creates curvature in the hip area long the side seam. This can be a good thing or bad thing depending on how your outer hips are shaped. I straightened out the curve a bit in my latest pattern alteration. In the fashion fabric, I may tweak it a bit to add some of the curve back in. )

Now notice that the waist seam and the crotch point are not flat.

To make each area lie flat, I snipped into the pattern and adjusted as needed. The waist seam was harder to reconcile. I ended up cutting through the seam allowance and adding about 0.375 inches of width.

4. Add paper and true all seamlines. I managed to keep the width the same at the place where I rejoin the upper and lower fronts.

5. Finally, rejoin the upper and lower fronts.

I cut out one or two more muslins of the front to check the fit. After playing around with different sewing seam allowances, I became satisfied with the fit. The back, however, was a different story. I'll have to include those details in the next post. Unfortunately, I can't find the pictures of the back, so Part 2 may not be as photo heavy.

L8r!

L