Good Intentions & Update

March Intentions

I had good intentions. Really, I did. But I should know by now that I cannot actively participate in any timed sewing challenge - especially if timing is short and during exams. Despite not entering any garments in the contest, I did manage to complete a tank top and cardigan and nearly complete the vogue jacket (1036) and a skirt.

The jacket just needs the sleeve facings and snaps on the front. That's it. It's so simple to complete this garment, but I just can't bring myself to do it. Part of the reason is because I'm not too thrilled of how it looks on me. When I made the mock-up, I liked it a lot. But now, having sewed it, I'm not so sure I like it. My friends Melody, Stephanie, and Therisa think it looks okay.

April Intentions

At the end of April, Faye started a 15-day all-tops sewing challenge. The idea was to sew as many tops as possible from 1 Apr to 15 Apr. The challenge was then followed by a 15-day all-bottoms sewing change to run from 16 Apr to 30 Apr. Again with the intentions... I thought this would be a great way to sew up some quick tops for spring. I began good by starting two tops: Burda 7866 and Jalie 965. I really like the Burda pattern, however the fabric I used is a little too festive for me. I don't even know why I bought it.

I'm so close to finishing this too. See the neckline facing? All I need to do is stitch it down and then do the hems. Sigh. I have to admit that when I am not feeling a garment, it does not get done. Sadly, this line of thinking has created my local version of Area 51:

Yes, you are looking at a closet full of UFOs. This picture was taken a couple of years ago and more aliens have landed since then. =/


What's next?

Jeans...
After finding my sew-jo hiding out in the garage, I dragged it into the sewing room a few days ago and began work on my third pair of jeans. So far, the garment is coming along nicely - if you don't count putting in the zipper BACKWARDS and subsequently wasting more than an hour trying to turn the tab around and picking out a shitload of stitches. I managed to fix the waistband issue I had on the last two pair (details forthcoming), but I have to cut a new pair of waistbands because the center front isn't long enough. Where's the "eyeroll" emoticon when you need it?

Long-sleeved knit tops...
I know it's spring somewhere, but I need long-sleeved knit tops. Whatareyagonnado?

Spring/Summer sewing...
I have some events coming up and I want to wear nice new clothes! I have a focus with specific patterns and fabric and I'm excited to begin working on them. More on this later.

Well, it's actually not raining outside (gasp!), so I think I'll go for a walk.


L8r!

Vogue 1036: Part 1

Plans are going smoothly for my mini wardrobe. Despite having only 11 days left, I am remaining confident in the thought that I can get this done. Currently, I'm working on the jacket and decided to start with this piece first since I knew it would take the most time.

Fabric

I'm using a 100% cotton bull denim purchased at JoAnn's. I had a different fabric planned for this jacket but I wasn't satisfied with how it meshed with the other fabrics in the wardrobe. The bull denim is 58 inches wide and super, super soft. According to the pattern suggestions, I bought 2 yards of fabric. Rarely do I buy extra for shrinkage - even though I do pre-wash when appropriate. This fabric shrunk a full 1/4 yards - 9 full inches! Da' hell?!! Maybe there's something special about bull denim that I don't know. I've never had a fabric shrink this much after one wash - not even rayon. Fortunately, I managed to gain about 4 inches when pressing out the wrinkles in the direction of the grain. I was also able to cut every pattern piece without having to buy more fabric.

Construction

Topstitching:
There is a serious amount of topstitching in this garment and it helps to have multiple machines dedicated to one function. I am sewing the seams on one machine, topstitching on a second machine, and serging the edges together on a serger.

I considered using gold topstitching thread instead of tone-on-tone. After doing a couple of samples, I decided on the latter because I thought the gold might make the jacket look too regal. I will probably make this again in black denim and use white topstitching as shown on the pattern envelope.

I messed up when pressing the seams to one side. I pressed the side back seams toward the side and the center front seams toward the center. Of course I realized this after I serged and topstitched everything. The instructions clearly tell you the correct way to topstitch; I just missed it. I'll make it right...on the next version.

Pocket:
I used a piece of quilting cotton found in the stash. It doesn't really match, but who's going to know? That's what I like about sewing. You can customize the garment however you deem fit.

Sleeves:
When making the muslin, I sewed two rows of ease stitches from notch to notch along the sleeve cap. As a result, the sleeve set in almost automatically with little to no adjusting. For the actual garment, I will use sleeve heads as a way to set in the sleeve. I cut 2 "wide bias strips out of scrap fleece and pinned it along the sleeve cap from notch to notch. This will help the cap ease into the armhole and provide support during wear. In her instructions, Sandra Betzina recommends using lambswool or mohair. I read somewhere that polyester fleece works just as well.

Final Steps

• set the sleeves
• finish facing edges
• attach front and back facings
• attach sleeve facings
• attach front band back bands
• attach snaps

I have work to do tonight, so I don't know if I'll be able to resume working on the jacket. In the mean time, I have the pieces for the other three garments cut and ready to sew. No pressure. No pressure at all. =)

L