2018 Sewing Year in Review

*finds blog under mounds of fabric*

It's been a while.  You know how it goes:  life stuff, yada yada. 

Since my last post in [checks notes] June, I have done quite a bit of sewing.  When I go to sit and write a blog post, I draw a blank, close the browser, and turn off the computer.  I don't know how much that will change in 2019, but I'll give this blogging thing another try...for now. =)

On with the review...

This year I made 26 wearable garments (including a functional bra), swimming trunks for the dude, and cloth grocery bags.  I had several UFOs and wadders - one of which I might return to if I drop a few pounds.  I didn't do a Year in Review for 2017, so I don't know how this compares to my progress that year.  I imagine it's around the same.

The Statistics

I was really feeling Jalie this year.  I made Éléonore three times, Charlie twice, a tank top, jeans, cardigan, and swim trunks.  I have another pair of jeans cut out and ready to sew.  

I didn't completely finish as many Burda patterns as I intended, but I am slowly getting around to knowing my Burda size.

Favorites

Jalie Charlie:  This is such a great pattern and not terribly difficult to sew.  Jalie consistently makes solid staples that never fail to deliver.  Even though I may be one or two years late on the bomber jacket trend, I don't care.  I love my jackets and have fabric to make at least two more.

McCall's 7627:  Despite the many hours needed to construct the sleeves and the difficulty I had with attaching the ties to the peplum, I love this shirt!  I wore it to work and got several compliments.  It has just enough drama to be noticeable, but not in-your-face dramatic.  Does that make any sense? =)

Burda 7136:  This is a favorite because of the details and construction.  I found a collar/collar stand tutorial that works for me and the sleeve tower placket went in effortlessly.

I cut the back yoke, sleeve cuffs, tower placket and front pocket on the bias for contrast.

 

Despite the fit being just 'okay' I wear this shirt all of the time.  The Burda love continues!

Jalie Éléonore:  When this pattern first came out, I was not too enthusiastic about it.  Pull on jeans?  Eh...pass.  Then I saw Kyle's (Vacuuming the Lawn) versions and had a change of mind.  I made this pattern five (!!) times already and have fabric for several more.  I didn't think I'd like the capri length; oddly enough, four of the five versions are capris! =P

I wear the denim pair ALL THE TIME as evidenced by the extreme fading and ripply topstitching.  I will definitely be adding more to the rotation.

Wadders/UFOs

• Burda 7812 (hated the pockets)
• Ottobre Spring/Summer 2011 #14 (again with the pockets)
• Burda Magazine 11-2008-104 (uncomfortable to wear with seams pressed to one side)
• Burda Magazine 8-2007-117 (humongous collar; disappointing too because I *really* liked this pattern)
• Burda Magazine 7-2005-101 (error in adding seam allowances to armhole princess seams)
• Burda Magazine 1-2018-121 (appears to be too small; might revisit in 10 pounds)

Except for the last garment, I probably won't finish the others; there are way too many other things I want to sew.  

I tried to stick to the Burda Challenge, I really did!

UFOs Carried into 2019

Simplicity 8470:  Simplicity released a pattern nearly identical to a coat sold at J. Crew last year (or the year before?).  I took the plunge and cut into a wool coating that had been marinating in the stash since [checks records] 2011.

The coat remains a UFO for two reasons: (1) I don't like the contrasting zipper tape and (2) I am having a hard time attaching the lining neckline to the coat neckline.  It's such a simple step, but I'm not doing something correctly.

I sent a swatch to a notions store in NYC with the hope that they'll be able to match the fabric with an appropriate zipper.  Current estimates show this zipper is going to cost about $18 without shipping.

o_O

That is almost as much as I paid for the damn fabric.  This zipper better be the GOAT.

Ugh!  I'm so close to being done and I put *a lot* of work into this coat.  I'm looking at you, pockets.

Kwik Sew 2895:  I think this has become my latest palate cleanser.  I wear the first one so much it's starting to fade.  I made two more earlier this year and am close to finishing another.

Camoflauge.  I made a camoflauge jacket.  When I showed the dude a picture, he asked if I was joining the military.  *side eye emoji* So clever, this one.

PinUp Girls Classic Full Band Bra:  I made a bra.  I MADE A BRA.  Do you know long this has been on my "sewing intentions" list? Forever and a day.  I took Beverly Johnson's class in Hamilton, Ontario this summer and MADE. A. BRA.  It wasn't as hard as I thought it was and IT FITS!!!!!

The white bra was completed as part of the class.  It fits, trust me.   My dress form is not padded to my current size.  The black bra is the one that needs finishing.

 2019 Sewing Intentions

• curb the fabric buying (again):  I was doing good for a while and then I had to have all the things.  I didn't track how much fabric I bought in 2018, but I'm sure it was more than 2017.  Despite the uptick in fabric buying, I sewed just over 30 yards of new fabric.  This is some kind of win, right?
• use more stash (again):  This is a never-ending intention.
• The Make Nine Challenge:  I've seen this make its rounds in the sewing community for several years.  Every time I search my fabric or patterns, I come across something that I really want to make but never do.  I think this is a good challenge that will keep me focused on those special projects that I've been putting off for a while.
• #SewTwistsandTies:  Meg at Cookin' & Craftin started a sew-along where the goal is to sew a garment that has a twist or tie.  I'm thinking of making McCall's 7429.
•  just sew it:  I embraced this idea two years ago and haven't looked back.  I'm starting to learn my size in some pattern companies and taking the risk to just sew it.  I'll still make muslins when needed.

Welp.  That's it for sewing 2018.  I didn't blog much at all; I'll try to keep up next year if I can.  I thank everyone who stops by this tiny corner of the interwebs to read my sewing ramblings or say hello.

I wish everyone a happy and peaceful new year.  Namaste.

L

 

McCall's 7627: Finished Finally

This is a pattern I never would have considered were it not for others who shared their versions.  When I saw Dressmaking Debacles' pictures of view B, I wanted one of my own.  It's feminine and flirty, but not twee.  I have no time for twee when I'm pushing 43.  

Constructing this top did not come easy - not that expect sewing to be easy all of the time.  

The sleeves.  OH MY GOSH.  The sleeves take foreeeeeeeeever.  I knew this going in to the project, so I started with them first.  Meaning...I cut and assembled one sleeve before I cut anything else.  I figured if I hated it, I could save the fabric for something else.
 
Since my fabric was a light grey and white cotton shirting, I couldn't use tailor's chalk or any other marking pencil/pen to mark the tuck lines.  So I used tailor's tacks in two different colors to mark the fold line and stitching line.  This took a full hour!

The instructions have the nerve to suggest doing all of this AFTER the sleeve seam is sewn.  Yeah no.  I would have given up early on if I had to do all of this with a tube of fabric.

Sewing and pressing all of the tucks took another hour which means each sleeve took two hours to complete and I hadn't even cut out the cuffs.  Madness.

Despite the time it took to construct the sleeves, I really like them!  It's drama without the noise, know what I mean?

After conquering the sleeves and hemming the massively-long ties, the next thing was to attach the peplum.  Should be simple, right?  Le sigh.

 

 

I had the absolute hardest time understanding what I was supposed to do in steps 36 and 37.  The instructions and diagrams made NO SENSE whatsoever.  I tried different maneuverings of the peplum facing and front facing to no avail.  Despite clipping the seam area, there was an insane amount of fabric that needed easing.

I contacted Nakisha for guidance and she sent some images that helped, though I would have to include a large pleat to make everything fit.

I played around with it for a few days and eventually got frustrated.  I emailed McCall's and had a series of exchanges with a representative that made me even more confused.  In one message she said to open out the facing, in the next she said not to open out the facing...or something.  After the eighth email, I didn't bother replying. I was done.

I called Haberman Fabrics (local fabric store) and asked if I could bring in the shirt and instructions for help.  Since most, if not all, of the workers sew, I hoped together we would be able to make sense of the instructions.  

The lady who helped me agreed that the instructions didn't make sense.  We slightly increased the size of the existing bodice pleats, shortened the width of the peplum facing, and winged it from there.  The inside isn't pretty and my pleats aren't even, but I'm over it. That whole area is covered by the ties and isn't visible.

 

Sleeves, done.  Peplum-front foolishness, done.  The only thing left was to hem the peplum.  I waffled between using a rolled hem (super easy and quick) or a topstitched hem (mind-numbing and aggravating).

Which finish did I choose?  Guess. 

I didn't think the rolled hem would "match" the rest of the garment.  So I sewed a basting stitch to ease the circular hem, serged the edge, and topstitched.  It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be.

Other stuff:  

I sewed a straight size 16.  The wrap is a bit low so I'll always need to wear a camisole.

I don't like the shoulder pleats; they don't want to lie flat.

Conclusion:  I love the shirt and will definitely wear it a lot.  I have zero desire to make another and am in no rush to make the dress. 

***

I'm wearing the shirt with my fourth pair of Jalie Éléonore pull-on jeans.  Blog post coming soon. =)

Until then, peace everyone!

L
 

 

 

 

Kwik Sew 2895 & New Look 6274: Old Faves

This is my second version of KS2895 and the love is still here.  I first made it in 2014 and wear it all the time!  

Even though I bought the fabric especially for this pattern, I hemmed and hawed for A FULL YEAR on using it.  The denim is lighter in weight than the first version so I didn't think the fabric would provide enough heft to support the structure.  Turns out, the fabric is perfect!  The jacket isn't as heavy as the first, but it's ideal for spring days and summer nights.

I'll get pictures wearing it tomorrow...maybe.

The New Look skirt is nothing new since I've made it so many times.  I used one yard of non-stretch cotton sateen.  The skirt is lined with Bemberg and the waist finished with petersham.  Rinse.  Repeat. =)

These garments are part of an unintentional mini SWAP.  The colors are grey, white, and coral.  I don't know if that's spring-ish or not, but I like it so I'm making it. 

What's next?  I hope to finish the shirt that never ends - better known as McCall's 7627.  When Dressmaking Debacles said constructing the sleeves takes 317 hours, she was not kidding!  The sleeves....oy vey!

Here's what I have so far:

I know it looks like a hot mess, but there's actually a shirt under there.  I have to re-sew parts of the facing and sew in the sleeves.  I am totally slow-rolling this shirt because I am tired of sewing it.  Vicious cycle!

That's all for now.  Until next time, peace!

L

 

Burda 7136: Button-up Shirt

Yay!!  Finally a Burda shirt that doesn't have pleats or gathers.  

Still on the never-ending hunt for a basic button-up shirt, I decided to try Burda 7136 after seeing Dressmaking Debacles' many successful versions.  The pattern has almost all of the features I want in a shirt:  collar with stand, sleeve plackets, back yoke, and shaped hem.  I would like the pattern to have shoulder princess seams instead of darts for bust shaping and a separate front band for contrast.  Both changes should be fairly straightforward.

This shirt almost didn't make it for two main reasons:  (1) I misread the instructions/pictures for the front band and (2) my sewing machine acted a certified fool with the buttonholes. 

Adjustments

I traced size 42 in the neck and shoulder and size 44 everywhere else.  The muslin showed the need for a small FBA and petite adjustments.  I made a 3/8" FBA (later eliminated) and shortened the pattern by 1 1/8" (3/8" above the bust and 3/8" in two places below the bust).  I shortened the sleeve cap by 3/8" as well. 

So what happened to the 3/8" FBA?  I neglected to realize that the front band was folded over twice.  When I tried on the shirt after completing the front, I was horrified to see how huge it was and thought the 3/8" FBA was unnecessary.  

I re-cut the front, attached the pocket, and started working on the collar.  It was at that point I realized that the front band was folded over twice, not once.  D'oh!  The adjusted front was already trashed and I didn't have enough fabric to cut it a third time.  Ugh.  I just went for it and took much smaller seam allowances in the bust area.  The fit isn't too terrible, but definitely can be improved.

The dart is too long and high and will be adjusted on the next version. 

I also have to shorten the sleeves at least two inches.  They didn't seem that long in the muslin, then again, I didn't sew the cuffs on the muslin either.

Buttonholes

Maaaan let me tell you.  My machine fought vigorously against sewing the buttonholes down the front.  I don't know why it started acting up because it sewed buttonholes on the cuffs beautifully.  And before attempting the front, I sewed six perfect buttonholes on a denim jacket with NO problems.

I guess when it was time to do the front of the shirt, my machine had enough.

This picture shows how the timing was completely off in measuring the length of the buttonhole.  This is a big deal because unpicking a poorly-stitched buttonhole made by machine is IMPOSSIBLE.  To gauge the size of the rectangle, the machine sews a line of tiny-ass stitches (like 0.4 length or something) on its first pass.  Then it zig-zags over those stitches and repeats the same process on the other side.  Trust me.  I have tried to pick out those little stitches.  I end up removing more fabric than thread.  It. Is. Impossible!! 

To say I was defeated is an understatement.  I was already facing a shirt that might not fit because I misread the instructions.  I *finally* found a method to attach and sew the collar stand that works for me.  I sewed the sleeve plackets with no problems and set the sleeves with no puckers.  All that was left was the buttonholes on the front and my machine started acting a fool.

Bruh.  This shirt was headed to the trash...until I posted my frustration on Instagram. Many people suggested using snaps (duh...why didn't I think of that) or getting a new machine (been thinking of that).  

Miss Celie's Pants asked if I had a vintage buttonholer.  I admitted to having *cough* three and a vintage sewing machine - neither of which has ever been used.

Judge all you want.  I deserve it. =P

Even though snaps were an option, I really wanted buttonholes because the cuffs already had them and I didn't want to mix the two types of closures on the shirt.

So I googled all the things on vintage buttonholers and how to use them on modern and vintage sewing machines.  I found a few YouTube videos that helped a lot.

• Vintage Buttonholer Attachment Part 1
• Vintage Buttonholer Attachment Part 2 
• How to attach and use a buttonholer attachment
• How to use a Singer 99k 
• How to thread a vintage round bobbin sewing machine

Drumroll...
 

Perfection!  Every.  Time.  And they're easy to pick if I make a mistake.  I don't know what took me so long to learn how to use the vintage buttonholers.  Well yes I do:  fear.  Of what I was afraid, I don't know.  Anyway.  I know how to use it now and will probably never make buttonholes on my computerized machine ever again.

 PERFECT!!!

Maybe a little crooked.

The vintage buttonholer comes with cams that only make round-edged buttonholes.  I prefer rectangles, but I am more than willing to sacrifice my preference for ease and no frustration.

Collar Stand

Sewing the collar stand was my least favorite part of shirtmaking because mine always looked crappy.  I could never get the stand to line up with the front band and my edgestitching was always uneven.  

After trying many different methods, I think I've found one that works for me.  The tutorial, written by Kathryn Brenne, can be found here:  Build a Better Collar & Stand - Part 2.  Her method seems unconventional because the stand is sewn a bit out of order and the interfaced stand is on the inside rather than outside.  When I asked about this in an email, she said that because she mostly wears her shirts open at the neckline, the inside is what people will see.  Makes sense.  Despite questioning the lack of support on the outside band, I followed her instructions anyway.

This is by far the best collar stand I have ever sewn and I got it right on the first try!  I no longer dread sewing collar stands.  Squee!

Cuffs

I think there is a drafting error with the cuffs and/or sleeve-cuff seam.  

The sleeve has two tucks on each side of the placket.   If sewn as is, the cuff is about an inch too short in circumference.  If you make this, either cut a longer cuff or make the pleat uptake larger so that it will fit.  I chose the second option since I had already cut and interfaced the cuffs.

Other Stuff

Since my fabric was a small plaid, I cut the pocket, sleeve placket, back yoke, and cuffs on the bias.  I did not bother matching the plaid because...um...I just didn't.  The checks are so small, mismatches are barely noticeable. 

Despite the mediocre fit and long sleeves, I am really happy with my shirt.  I will definitely make it again after converting the darts to princess seams and shortening the sleeves.  I can see why this pattern is popular.  Yay!!

Up next:  While the shirt was in time out, I made another denim-style jacket (Kwik Sew 2895) and skirt (New Look 6274).  I am also in the process of making view B of McCall's 7627 (the sleeves take forever).

That's all for now.  Until next time, peace!

L