Stretch vs. Non-stretch Linings

I have a lot of wool.  A lot.  Wool sews nicely and is very warm in these cold arctic climates.  But, this fabric is very expensive to clean.  So I decided that I needed some more washable clothes and recently bought a whole bunch of rayon-poly-lycra stretch woven suitings from Fabric Mart.

Their website doesn't mention the percentages of rayon, polyester, or Lycra, but it did state that the fabric had 4-way stretch - which brings me to my dilemma.  Since I plan to make jackets, skirts and pants out of this fabric, I'll want to include a lining.  I see three ways to make this happen, but they all have their pros and cons.

Option 1:  use a non-stretch lining sewn with smaller seam allowances

• Pros:  I stock up on lining whenever there's a sale or when I have a coupon, so I have plenty on hand.  Plus, my lining is all rayon and breathes/sews very well. 

• Cons:  It doesn't stretch. I don't know if simply cutting the same pieces and using a smaller seam allowance will help preserve the benefit of the fabric's stretch.

Option 2:  use a stretch polyester charmeuse or satin as lining

• Pros:  It stretches and is readily available.

• Cons:  It's polyester.  What can I say?  I'm a fabric snob when it comes to linings. 

Option 3:   use a non-stretch lining cut on the bias

•  Pros:   I'll have comparable stretch.

• Cons:  I'm not sure how the bias will behave in the long run.  Will it hang correctly with the rest of the garment?

What are your thoughts?  Have you lined stretch wovens before?  The fact that this fabric has both crosswise and lengthwise stretch is a bit of a concern.  Though it appears to have good recovery, I wonder how the knee and seat area will look after a full day of wear.  Hmm...

L

Un-Stuck

Thank you for the many words and notes of encouragement.  Having conversations with close friends and connecting with you and your comments has certainly helped.  Things are difficult, but I'm pressing forward.  Life is full of experiences - both positive and negative.  Although it's not easy, sometimes letting go is the best and only option.  With regard to a couple of situations, there is nothing more I can do.  I have to move on.

I've known this for some time now, but it hit home this past weekend.  In May, my 13-year old car stopped working and it's been sitting in my driveway ever since.  Why did I hang onto it for so long?  I have no idea.  I certainly didn't need it.  I had no intention of fixing it and I had already bought a new car.  It was just sitting there rusting and leaking.  Finally, I called the scrap yard on Saturday to haul it away.  It was the most freeing thing I've done in a while.  It was also an example of how holding onto stuff, things, and people can add unnecessary weight and keep you from recognizing the greatness in you and pursuing better things.

I let something else go today as well, but I won't get into that.  Let's just say it was time.

My sewjo is still on the run, but I'm closing in on it.  I cut out a skirt and sewed the front seams together.  I need to swap out my serger thread so that I can finish the seams together.  Hopefully I'll have it done on Friday or Saturday.

Finally, I never blogged or shared pictures of the Simplicity jacket I finished over the summer (S2422).  I've worn it a couple of times and really like it.  The sleeve bands are a bit tight when I reach forward, but not so much so that it's unwearable.  The photo was taken in October.  I have to get better at taking pictures; recently my photos are coming out blurry and I need to figure out why.

That's all for now.  Until next time, be well!

L