2018 Sewing Year in Review

*finds blog under mounds of fabric*

It's been a while.  You know how it goes:  life stuff, yada yada. 

Since my last post in [checks notes] June, I have done quite a bit of sewing.  When I go to sit and write a blog post, I draw a blank, close the browser, and turn off the computer.  I don't know how much that will change in 2019, but I'll give this blogging thing another try...for now. =)

On with the review...

This year I made 26 wearable garments (including a functional bra), swimming trunks for the dude, and cloth grocery bags.  I had several UFOs and wadders - one of which I might return to if I drop a few pounds.  I didn't do a Year in Review for 2017, so I don't know how this compares to my progress that year.  I imagine it's around the same.

The Statistics

I was really feeling Jalie this year.  I made Éléonore three times, Charlie twice, a tank top, jeans, cardigan, and swim trunks.  I have another pair of jeans cut out and ready to sew.  

I didn't completely finish as many Burda patterns as I intended, but I am slowly getting around to knowing my Burda size.

Favorites

Jalie Charlie:  This is such a great pattern and not terribly difficult to sew.  Jalie consistently makes solid staples that never fail to deliver.  Even though I may be one or two years late on the bomber jacket trend, I don't care.  I love my jackets and have fabric to make at least two more.

McCall's 7627:  Despite the many hours needed to construct the sleeves and the difficulty I had with attaching the ties to the peplum, I love this shirt!  I wore it to work and got several compliments.  It has just enough drama to be noticeable, but not in-your-face dramatic.  Does that make any sense? =)

Burda 7136:  This is a favorite because of the details and construction.  I found a collar/collar stand tutorial that works for me and the sleeve tower placket went in effortlessly.

I cut the back yoke, sleeve cuffs, tower placket and front pocket on the bias for contrast.

 

Despite the fit being just 'okay' I wear this shirt all of the time.  The Burda love continues!

Jalie Éléonore:  When this pattern first came out, I was not too enthusiastic about it.  Pull on jeans?  Eh...pass.  Then I saw Kyle's (Vacuuming the Lawn) versions and had a change of mind.  I made this pattern five (!!) times already and have fabric for several more.  I didn't think I'd like the capri length; oddly enough, four of the five versions are capris! =P

I wear the denim pair ALL THE TIME as evidenced by the extreme fading and ripply topstitching.  I will definitely be adding more to the rotation.

Wadders/UFOs

• Burda 7812 (hated the pockets)
• Ottobre Spring/Summer 2011 #14 (again with the pockets)
• Burda Magazine 11-2008-104 (uncomfortable to wear with seams pressed to one side)
• Burda Magazine 8-2007-117 (humongous collar; disappointing too because I *really* liked this pattern)
• Burda Magazine 7-2005-101 (error in adding seam allowances to armhole princess seams)
• Burda Magazine 1-2018-121 (appears to be too small; might revisit in 10 pounds)

Except for the last garment, I probably won't finish the others; there are way too many other things I want to sew.  

I tried to stick to the Burda Challenge, I really did!

UFOs Carried into 2019

Simplicity 8470:  Simplicity released a pattern nearly identical to a coat sold at J. Crew last year (or the year before?).  I took the plunge and cut into a wool coating that had been marinating in the stash since [checks records] 2011.

The coat remains a UFO for two reasons: (1) I don't like the contrasting zipper tape and (2) I am having a hard time attaching the lining neckline to the coat neckline.  It's such a simple step, but I'm not doing something correctly.

I sent a swatch to a notions store in NYC with the hope that they'll be able to match the fabric with an appropriate zipper.  Current estimates show this zipper is going to cost about $18 without shipping.

o_O

That is almost as much as I paid for the damn fabric.  This zipper better be the GOAT.

Ugh!  I'm so close to being done and I put *a lot* of work into this coat.  I'm looking at you, pockets.

Kwik Sew 2895:  I think this has become my latest palate cleanser.  I wear the first one so much it's starting to fade.  I made two more earlier this year and am close to finishing another.

Camoflauge.  I made a camoflauge jacket.  When I showed the dude a picture, he asked if I was joining the military.  *side eye emoji* So clever, this one.

PinUp Girls Classic Full Band Bra:  I made a bra.  I MADE A BRA.  Do you know long this has been on my "sewing intentions" list? Forever and a day.  I took Beverly Johnson's class in Hamilton, Ontario this summer and MADE. A. BRA.  It wasn't as hard as I thought it was and IT FITS!!!!!

The white bra was completed as part of the class.  It fits, trust me.   My dress form is not padded to my current size.  The black bra is the one that needs finishing.

 2019 Sewing Intentions

• curb the fabric buying (again):  I was doing good for a while and then I had to have all the things.  I didn't track how much fabric I bought in 2018, but I'm sure it was more than 2017.  Despite the uptick in fabric buying, I sewed just over 30 yards of new fabric.  This is some kind of win, right?
• use more stash (again):  This is a never-ending intention.
• The Make Nine Challenge:  I've seen this make its rounds in the sewing community for several years.  Every time I search my fabric or patterns, I come across something that I really want to make but never do.  I think this is a good challenge that will keep me focused on those special projects that I've been putting off for a while.
• #SewTwistsandTies:  Meg at Cookin' & Craftin started a sew-along where the goal is to sew a garment that has a twist or tie.  I'm thinking of making McCall's 7429.
•  just sew it:  I embraced this idea two years ago and haven't looked back.  I'm starting to learn my size in some pattern companies and taking the risk to just sew it.  I'll still make muslins when needed.

Welp.  That's it for sewing 2018.  I didn't blog much at all; I'll try to keep up next year if I can.  I thank everyone who stops by this tiny corner of the interwebs to read my sewing ramblings or say hello.

I wish everyone a happy and peaceful new year.  Namaste.

L

 

McCall's 7627: Finished Finally

This is a pattern I never would have considered were it not for others who shared their versions.  When I saw Dressmaking Debacles' pictures of view B, I wanted one of my own.  It's feminine and flirty, but not twee.  I have no time for twee when I'm pushing 43.  

Constructing this top did not come easy - not that expect sewing to be easy all of the time.  

The sleeves.  OH MY GOSH.  The sleeves take foreeeeeeeeever.  I knew this going in to the project, so I started with them first.  Meaning...I cut and assembled one sleeve before I cut anything else.  I figured if I hated it, I could save the fabric for something else.
 
Since my fabric was a light grey and white cotton shirting, I couldn't use tailor's chalk or any other marking pencil/pen to mark the tuck lines.  So I used tailor's tacks in two different colors to mark the fold line and stitching line.  This took a full hour!

The instructions have the nerve to suggest doing all of this AFTER the sleeve seam is sewn.  Yeah no.  I would have given up early on if I had to do all of this with a tube of fabric.

Sewing and pressing all of the tucks took another hour which means each sleeve took two hours to complete and I hadn't even cut out the cuffs.  Madness.

Despite the time it took to construct the sleeves, I really like them!  It's drama without the noise, know what I mean?

After conquering the sleeves and hemming the massively-long ties, the next thing was to attach the peplum.  Should be simple, right?  Le sigh.

 

 

I had the absolute hardest time understanding what I was supposed to do in steps 36 and 37.  The instructions and diagrams made NO SENSE whatsoever.  I tried different maneuverings of the peplum facing and front facing to no avail.  Despite clipping the seam area, there was an insane amount of fabric that needed easing.

I contacted Nakisha for guidance and she sent some images that helped, though I would have to include a large pleat to make everything fit.

I played around with it for a few days and eventually got frustrated.  I emailed McCall's and had a series of exchanges with a representative that made me even more confused.  In one message she said to open out the facing, in the next she said not to open out the facing...or something.  After the eighth email, I didn't bother replying. I was done.

I called Haberman Fabrics (local fabric store) and asked if I could bring in the shirt and instructions for help.  Since most, if not all, of the workers sew, I hoped together we would be able to make sense of the instructions.  

The lady who helped me agreed that the instructions didn't make sense.  We slightly increased the size of the existing bodice pleats, shortened the width of the peplum facing, and winged it from there.  The inside isn't pretty and my pleats aren't even, but I'm over it. That whole area is covered by the ties and isn't visible.

 

Sleeves, done.  Peplum-front foolishness, done.  The only thing left was to hem the peplum.  I waffled between using a rolled hem (super easy and quick) or a topstitched hem (mind-numbing and aggravating).

Which finish did I choose?  Guess. 

I didn't think the rolled hem would "match" the rest of the garment.  So I sewed a basting stitch to ease the circular hem, serged the edge, and topstitched.  It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be.

Other stuff:  

I sewed a straight size 16.  The wrap is a bit low so I'll always need to wear a camisole.

I don't like the shoulder pleats; they don't want to lie flat.

Conclusion:  I love the shirt and will definitely wear it a lot.  I have zero desire to make another and am in no rush to make the dress. 

***

I'm wearing the shirt with my fourth pair of Jalie Éléonore pull-on jeans.  Blog post coming soon. =)

Until then, peace everyone!

L