27 March 2025

Floral Trench Coat (part 4): setting the sleeves

The coat has sleeves. Finally.
 
This coat is taking forever because everything that could go wrong has gone wrong. I'm trying to take it one step at a time, but each step seems to break down into smaller, more frustrating steps. It's actually kind of funny. I was SO worried about repeating the wonky facing situation from 2015, that everything else has caused many more problems and I haven't even gotten to attaching the facing yet!
 
When making coats or jackets, I usually use bias cut 3" x 11" (7.6 cm x 28 cm)  strips of fleece for sleeve heads. It is rare that I have an issue setting sleeves this way, though it does happen. To set using sleeve heads, I place one end of the strip  near the notch or dot and sew the strip along the sleeve cap, slightly stretching as I go along. This serves the same purpose as two rows of ease stitches whilst also providing shoulder cap support.
 

 

I do not know what went wrong, but I could not get the sleeves to set without creating massive puckers and wrinkles. I tried stretching the bias strip more aggressively, less aggressively, not at all. Nothing worked.  In measuring the sleeve cap and armhole seams, I found about two extra inches of ease - which isn't too bad. I tried trimming one of the armholes to give a little more room. Nothing. I just could not get the sleeve to set properly. I don't have pictures of the wonkiness because I was seriously over it.
 
I stitched and un-stitched the right sleeve four times and the left sleeve twice before giving up and taking out the sleeve heads. I went back to the two rows of ease stitches and both sleeves set with no problems. 😳 See what I mean? Foolishness!
 
The sleeves are in and they kind of look sad without the extra support. I'll try basting one of the sleeve heads to the serged seam to see if that helps.
 

That's it for this update. I've made more progress since this and...sigh...have un-stitched all of that too. Ooof.
 
L

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Prior posts:
 

3 comments:

  1. So sorry to hear of the…opportunities for patience…this weekend I was able to get to my machine to work on a chiffon top. Hard to tell right from wrong side. First time ever I set a sleeve in upside down, THEN inside out. Best wishes on your next phase… she is looking lovely! Chris in FL

    ReplyDelete
  2. "opportunities for patience" I love this! This coat is definitely testing my patience. I don't think I've un-stitched this much on any other garment ever!

    It seems like the sleeve demons have made it to you too! I know chiffon can sometimes be tricky to sew and I hope your garment turns out lovely! On what shirt pattern are you working? Thank you Chris!

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  3. Gorgeous fabric, Lynn! Looking forward to seeing the finished product!

    ReplyDelete

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