Tried & True Shirt Pattern: Burda 8-2009-104

My tried-and-true button front shirt is Burda 8-2009-104. So far, I've made this pattern six times and every version gets lots of wear.

 

 (Version 6 is not in the collage.)

What initially drew me to the pattern was the front ruffle. I was going through an all things ruffles phase a couple of years ago and looked for shirt patterns with this detail.

Pattern Features for View 104

• front vertical darts extending to the hem
• back vertical fish-eye darts
  
• separate left and right front bands
  
• collar stand and collar
• sleeve cuffs  and continuous lap 
• rectangular strip for ruffle 

 

Sizing & Adjustments

I cut a straight size 44 and shortened the front vertical darts two inches. The original dart end was far too high for my bust size. I also shortened the sleeves one inch. I am proportionally short and Burda sleeves are usually long on me.

 

Because I like the fit so much, I've started comparing the flat pattern measurements in this pattern to other patterns. Burda's sizing is consistent and that's very encouraging. (I'm almost finished with a Burda dress that I cut right into with no muslin and the fit is spot on. More details on that garment later.)

 

General Construction Notes

I used 5/8" seam allowances on all edges and 3/4" hem. For lightweight fabrics, I sewed french seams;  for others, I finished the seams together with my serger.

I used Shirt Crisp Light from Fashion Sewing Supply for interfacing cuffs, collar, and collar stand. The collar stand method I use interfaces the inner stand - rather than outer stand - for structure. For lightweight fabrics, I interfaced both.

When sewing the buttonholes, I place a small scrap of tear-away stabilizer underneath for added support.

Pattern Design Modifications

 

Cut-on front band:  Since the pattern has good bones, it can serve as a great starting point for small design changes or adaptations. In version 4, I modified the bodice to have a cut-on front placket so that I could preserve a lot of the detail of the beautiful fabric in once piece. I was inspired to make this after seeing versions made by Carolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic) and Karon (cookeka on Instagram).

Traditional left & right front bands:  In versions 2, 3, and 5, I didn't use the separate left front band and instead opted to double the right band for a more streamlined construction. The original pattern requires separate left and right bands so that the ruffle, sandwiched between them, has a neat finish.

Sleeve tower plackets:  Even though I've been sewing for 20 years, I still cannot make a proper continuous lap. I know how to do it, but something goes awry when it comes to sewing and it just doesn't look good. I need to do several practice samples to build my confidence.

To make the tower plackets, I use David Page Coffin's template and instructions found in his book, Shirtmaking: Developing Skills for Fine Sewing. A few years ago, a friend of mine walked me through the process and I've not looked back. It's simple, fairly quick, and involves only one pattern piece. 

 

Wider cuffs:  The cuff pattern piece measures 11" x 4.75". with seam allowances. I thought this was a bit narrow after sewn, so I used a cuff sized 11.75" x 6.5" with seam allowances. This gives a folded cuff with a finished width of around 2.75 inches. I like this much better as it gives the option of having one or two buttons for a closure.

 

Hidden button band:  I am in the process of creating new front pieces for a covered button placket using view 103 to copy Vogue 1973.

(left:  Vogue 1973; right:  view 103)

View 103 has been on my radar for a while and uses almost all of the same pattern pieces as view 104. The sleeves are gathered at the cuff and there's a tie-neck instead of collar/collar stand unit.

The bodice muslin for Vogue 1973 didn't fit well and I am not too sure about the FBA and conversion to shoulder princess-seams adjustment that I made. I started to make a second muslin and then thought why not just use what already works? I'll compare the extension measurements of Vogue 1973 to that of another Burda pattern with a hidden button placket. I don't think the modification will be too difficult. Hah. Famous last words, right?

Final thoughts about and photos of each version:

Version 1 (crimson/quartz/white cotton poplin)

If you've made button-front shirts before, sewing this would be no problem. The only thing that took a bit of attention was the front ruffle construction. The instructions didn't make clear how to finish the top and bottom edges of the ruffle - or at least it wasn't clear to me. So I sewed a narrow hem before attaching to the front band.

Version 2 (slate blue and white striped cotton poplin)

For this version, I took the ruffle pattern piece from Simplicity 2339 View C and used it along the front. Initially I made a muslin of the Simplicity pattern, but I abandoned it due to fit. Rather than trying to make it work, I went back to my "future old faithful." Now that I see the two side-by-side, I think I like it with the forward shoulder seam and mandarin collar. Hmmm...methinks I'll make a new bodice front to include this detail.

Version 3 (floral light weight cotton sateen)

 

Oof. I remember this; it almost ended up in the trash. I had problems with the sleeve plackets because the fabric was incredibly fussy - or maybe I was fussy. I remember reaching my limits with the plackets and chopping off the lower part of the sleeves. I was so over this shirt that I didn't bother with buttonholes; I used some SnapSource snaps (RIP). I was DONE done. And you know what? After all that hassle, I LOVE this old thing. It pairs well with skinny jeans, capris, and sandals.

 

Version 4 (red floral stretch cotton sateen)

 

Of all the versions, I think this might be my favorite. I really enjoyed the planning it took to place the bodice and sleeve pieces for an interesting look. It was a super fun piece to make and I can see using border prints again with this pattern.

 

 

The fabric is from Mood and was so great to work with. It had a tendency to snag, so I had to be careful with picking stitches.

Version 5 (camouflage cotton poplin)

I finished this version most recently. Last year, I made my guy a camouflage shirt and wanted one for myself. So when I saw this poplin (also from Mood), I grabbed it straightaway.

Since the fabric was lightweight, I used french seams everywhere except the armhole; there I used my serger. I took my time with the seams and am happy with how neat and even they came out.

Sewing the sleeve placket on this lightweight fabric didn't pose any issues. I don't know what was going on with that other version. Ah well.

 

I waffled back and forth on adding a button to the placket. Sometimes I do, sometimes I don't. I was also real tempted to use shiny gold buttons on this shirt. In the end, I settled on simple black buttons to tone down the look. The nice thing is the buttons are the same size, so if I change my mind and want to go flashy, I can. =)

That's it! I love this pattern and can see making several more for sure. I've already pulled and prepared fabric for upcoming versions.

Thanks for reading!

L