12 March 2023

Oro Rosa Magdalena

Despite facing some challenges at the beginning of the year, I have been doing some sewing. It's the one thing that keeps me relaxed - at least until the weather warms and I can be outdoors more.

I recently finished the first item from my Make Nine 2023 plan:  Oro Rosa Magdalena.


Listen. I LOVE this bag. Everything about it makes me smile. I feel like I say that about every handbag, but it's true! 😅 It came together as I envisioned and I am pleased with how it looks. Though I debated about using contrasting thread, I'm glad I followed through with it. It adds more visual interest and compliments the hardware nicely.


Sewing was mostly straightforward. There were a couple of mishaps that resulted in having to cut new pieces and restitch some areas (looking at you strap connector). Also binding the raw edges with bias tape is still a struggle, so it's not as professional-looking as it can be. In all, this was fun to make and I am very happy with the finish. Even the dude said it looks good. =)

This is my entry into the Bags and Wallet contest on Pattern Review. Here's a recap of my review:

The finished size is: 10 H x 10 W x 3 D (in.) and 25.4 H x 25.4 W x 7.62 D (cm). There is also a smaller, wristlet-sized wallet (purchased separately) that measures 5 H x 5 W x 2 D (in.) and 12.5 H x 12.5 W x 5 D (cm).

I did not make any changes to the pattern. I did not include the supplies/hardware needed to wear the bag as a backpack.

Alexis (designer for Oro Rosa Patterns) writes wonderfully detailed instructions. Pictures are clearly illustrated and include figure numbers that correspond to the written instructions. For more complex designs or designs that have several pieces, labels are included for printing and assembling cut pieces into stacks. As this is the third pattern I've made from this company, I appreciate the careful thought and consideration Alexis puts into planning construction and writing the instructions. She even includes statements of encouragement cheering you on to finish. Additionally, she invites you to view YouTube tutorials created by other bag makers who walk through the instructions step-by-step. When needed, I referred to SiahSwag's Magdalena video.

I used two types of vinyl: black faux leather and textured reptilian. The lining is a cotton print in colors red, black, and gold. 
 

 
 Hardware (in antique bronze finish unless otherwise noted):
  • 2 x cut lengths of #5 nylon metallic coil zipper tape (grey/antique bronze; black/gold)
  • 3 x #5 metal zipper pulls (2 x antique bronze; 1 x gold)
  • 1 x metal "Handmade" tag
  • 10 x large double capped rivets
  • 2 x 1" strap ends
  • 1 x 1" extra wide strap slider
  • 2 x 1" swivel clasps
  • 2 x 1" D-rings
 
Structure:  I used three different interfacings for structure: SF101 black fusible woven interfacing (all lining pieces), Decovil - light (strap connectors), and Decovil - heavy (gusset, zipper panels, front & back panels).

Construction: I sewed the bag on my semi-industrial straight stitch machine. I used a 100/16 leather needle, stitch plate for thick fabric, Teflon foot, and hinged zipper foot. For thread, I used Gutermann Tex 100 polyester thread in black and antique bronze in the needles and regular-weight thread (Tex 30) in the bobbin. Other notions used include wonder clips, duct tape (to prevent the back of the "handmade" tag from damaging the lining), and leather silver marking pen. The interior seams were bound with 1/2-inch wide black double fold bias tape.

To apply the rivets, I used my KAMSnaps table press. Interfacing was fused with my Elna press and regular iron.

Resources:
  • My PunkBroidery (vinyls)
  • Wawak (interfacing, zipper tapes and pulls, double-sided tape, thread, bias tape, needles)
  • Emmaline Bags (hardware)
  • JoAnn Fabrics (interfacing)
  • Tandy Leather (rivets, silver marking pen)
 
Originally, I wanted to make this bag in all black with rose gold hardware, but I decided on this combination because...squirrel! I really liked the reptilian vinyl and when I saw it, the vision of this bag would not leave my mind. I'll likely make the original all-black version at some point or try Oro Rosa's Erica Bowler which is comparable to Magdalena with a different shape.

This is the third bag I've made from Oro Rosa patterns (previously made Catalina and Quilted Alice).
 
(left:  Catalina; right:  Quilted Alice)
  
I am very pleased with the newest handbag; it will definitely get a lot of use!
 

More pictures of the hardware and interior:


Below, the bag is hanging on one of my dress forms for scale.
 
(top:  Simplicity 9385; skirt:  Simplicity 9375)
  
***
 
I've started the muslin for the Closet Core Kelly Anorak. I also started cutting out the pieces for another Catalina cross-body bag. Methinks the handbag is going to take priority over the anorak. =)
 
L
 

12 February 2023

Make Nine 2023

2023 got off to a rocky start. The bruise from the IV that was in my arm has finally healed. 😔 I'm better now *fingers crossed*.
 
I finally completed my intentions for Make Nine 2023. As with previous plans, the majority of the grid consists of patterns that have been in and out of the sewing queue.  To my own surprise, four of the patterns are from (fairly) recent releases.



Two tops:  Simplicity 8791 &  Simplicity 9646
Lately, I've been drawn to shirt patterns (knit and woven) with full sleeves. So when I saw 9646, I knew I wanted to make it. I'm a wee bit on the fence about the dropped shoulder seam morphing into the full lower sleeve. We'll see how it goes.

Simplicity 8791 is a classic and I've wanted to make it for a while now. I think I'll do view C (modeled), though I do like view B (red) with the double peplum. 

Two skirts:  Simplicity 8609 & Simplicity 9377

Honestly, I don't remember why I added 8609. I think I saw something on Instgram some time ago that sparked an interest in this type of pleated skirt. Eh...I don't know if this one will remain on the grid.

I do like 9377. I have some linen that I think will go nicely with this pattern. I'll likely do a test version first to see how all those buttons are going to work.

Two dresses:  McCall's 8030 & McCall's 8286
 
When 8030 was first released, I didn't think much of it. When people started sharing their versions, the pattern grew on me. I really like the play on stripes and intend to do the same with my version. If I have enough fabric, think I'll make view A with the sleeve cuffs and belt.

8286 - a wrapped shirt dress with collar and curved hem? Um...YES please! I like this so much I bought two copies in anticipation of making multiple versions. I hope this pattern delivers!

Oro Rosa Magdalena 
 
image source (not an affiliate link)
 
As with all of my Make Nine plans, I include a handbag. I really, really like making handbags and have been acquiring fabric and hardware to keep going. I like the challenge of coordinating fabric, vinyl/leather, and hardware as well as putting all the pieces together. 

Magdalena was part of my Make Nine 2022 grid, but I changed it for Oro Rosa's Catalina bag that had just been released. I really like Alexis' patterns because the styles are unique (to me at least) and her instructions are very clear and comprehensive.

Closet Core Kelly Anorak
Every time I see this pop up on the internets, I get excited all over again. I love the details of the jacket and it looks like it would be interesting to make. I'll definitely make a muslin to test the fit. Hopefully, I'll have this done in time for Spring.

Deep stash

I have a lot of fabric (we are not going to talk numbers 😅). Some pieces date back 15 years and it's doing no good aging in my basement. My partner once said that the fun for me was in buying fabric and not using it. Ouch. He's not wrong, but homie didn't have to call me out like that. =) Anyway, a stash reduction is in order and the best way to achieve this is by sewing, selling, and/or donating.

That's it for the plan for now. Though these are the patterns I've chosen, I am not wedded to anything on the grid. My Make Nine is flexible and subject to what I feel like sewing.

L


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