This was another pattern on very long sewing list. I don't remember when I bought it, but I've had it for what feels like a long time.
Fast forward to now, I opted to make view B - the one with the side slits and snaps; I didn't have enough fabric to make view A, though it is still on the list. (Wrinkles are from recent wear.)
Fabric & Notions:
- 2.5 yards black linen
- 80/12 universal needle
- black weft fusible interfacing
- 10 fashion spring snaps
- regular sewing and serger thread
Construction: Save for user error, construction was very straightforward. I sewed the darts and assembled the pieces on my regular sewing machine. I finished the edges on my serger, sewed the seams, and then pressed them open.
The front waist overlays are cut from four pieces of fabric - two for each overlay. Since my fabric was on the heavy side, I was worried about that area being too bulky. So I used a thinner black cotton fabric to serve as the underside.
I think this worked quite well. If I make this again and need to use a different fabric underneath, I will make sure to trim a scant 1/8-inch from the edge to ensure proper turn of cloth. I can see a bit of the underside peeking out here.
The instructions show that the pointy end is interfaced, but there is no separate pattern piece. I just traced the pattern to a width that looked reasonable and used it to cut the interfacing.
When installing the snaps, I used a 4mm cutter to make the holes. Unfortunately, this was way too big and one of the holes stretched out.
The other three were cut the same hole size, but haven't failed yet. I'm going to leave them alone for now and repair if needed. For the other side slit, I used a 2.5mm cutter. Those snaps seem to be holding well.
To mend the error, I used buttonhole thread to darn over the hole and covered with a small piece of weft interfacing (not pictured). I cut a new hole slightly below the original to better align with the snap.
Instructions: The one review that appears on Pattern Review indicates that the instructions for the waist facing and side slit were awful. When I first read this review, I hesitated to make the pattern. Having sewn many Burda envelope and magazine patterns, I decided to forge on and deal with any issues as they arose. I'm pleased to say that the instructions are clear and not difficult to follow at all. Maybe it's because I'm fluent in Burda-speak? I don't know. I didn't have any problem sewing the side slit, hem, or waist facing.
To sew the side slit, first prepare the underlap as instructed (interface, fold in half, press). If I make these pants again, I would wait to serge leg raw edge until after the underlap is attached and the hem folded in place. This way, the underlap edge is caught in the serging - avoiding the need to finish separately.
Place the underlap RST with the back leg. The piece should fit between the marked diagonal stitching line (which appears on the front leg) and the hemline (picture 10).
(Note: When I shortened the pants, I forgot to remove the extra length from the underlap. I couldn't figure out why my underlaps were so long then it hit me. So if you make length changes, don't forgot to make the changes to the underlap and facing pattern pieces too. After making those changes, I cut new fabric pieces and proceeded with construction.)
Stitch the underlap to the back leg. Fold the hem onto the underlap and stitch in place (picture 10a). I serged the raw edge of the hem before doing this step. Then finish the entire raw edge from waist to folded hem. This is what's shown in the circled image.
Once sewn, turn hem to the inside and handstitch in place.
Attaching the facing is straightforward too. The only instruction lacking is to finish the raw edge (part that is not sewn to front leg) of the facing.
Picture 12 shows that the upper and lower edges of the facing seam allowance are folded as well as the front hem. Do this before sewing the facing to the front leg right sides together. Fold to the inside and press. Handstitch the hem in place.
Overall thoughts: I really like the pants. The snaps add a nice weight to the leg and keep them stable whilst also allowing for generous movement. I felt really good wearing them and can see making another version of this view along with view A.
I find the back zipper unnecessarily cumbersome - maybe because I don't have any pants with back zippers. Hah! Unless the front overlap is supposed to be permanently attached to the front, there is no good reason why the zipper can't be on the center front seam. There is potentially a lot of bulk in the side, so I can see why a side seam zipper would be avoided. But the front? Definitely possible.
I neglected to get a picture of me wearing the pants. Maybe next time. =)
It's a good pattern and I'm glad I finally made it. Fabrics with body and drape are ideal for optimal movement. I give it 5/5.
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I started cutting out a skirt pattern from Burda 9-2006. I'm thinking about fall clothes and new garments for this new body. I saw someone say that they do not feel secure in their new body and I understand the sentiment completely. I will continue to work on improving my physical and personal health.
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