BurdaStyle 1-2015-109 (skirt) & New Look 6407 (blouse): Complete

One of my sewing intentions for 2015 is to keep up with the Burda-a-month sew along started by Dawn at Two On, Two Off.  I figured that since I have a lot of magazines, it shouldn't be too hard to find and sew one pattern each month.

So far, January is off to a good start with this skirt.

Obviously I need to work on my tripod-camera-taking skills.  I never seem to get the top of my head in the photo.

Fabric & Notions:

• 1.5 yards of medium-weight stretch wool twill
• 1.5 yards ambiance lining
• 7" invisible zipper
• petersham as waist facing
• 80/12 universal needle
• serger and sewing machine

The pattern:  There are only three pieces:  center front/back, side front/back, and upper side front/back.  There is also a rectangular waistband, but I didn't use it because I didn't have enough fabric. 

Size:  The largest size available for this pattern is 42.  I wasn't sure if this was going to fit, so I compared the waist/hip area to another BWOF pattern that I made in size 44.  I knew the 44 was too big, so I figured the 42 would be just right.  Due to the stretch of my fabric, I ended up having to take larger seam allowances to make the skirt fit at the waist. I did not make a muslin!

Alterations:  I always have to do a 1.25-inch full seat adjustment on skirts.  Since the center front/back and side panels are all the same pieces, I made separate pieces for the back to make the adjustment.

 1.25 inches added straight across to center back

1.25-inch wedge added to long side panel piece

1.25-inch wedge added to short side panel piece

I made no changes to the front pieces.

Construction:   Sewing was pretty easy.  Beware that the side seams (where the two flared panels meet) are sewn before the front/back seams.  I thought about sewing in a different order so that I could fit along the way, but decided to just follow the instructions and make any in-progress adjustments on the front/back seams.

Also, the zipper is installed in the side back seam, and not in the side.   I questioned this at first, but realized that this is a good idea because the side seams have four layers of fabric and that probably would have been a PITA to deal with.

I used my serger to finish the edges of the fabric first, then sewed them together with my machine.  To reduce bulk (and there's a lot of it with all these layers), I pressed the seams open.

I finished the hem with a rolled hem.  I didn't add any hem allowance when I cut out the pieces and the length is perfect for me.

I wore this outfit to work on Wednesday and got a few compliments.  The skirt is very flirty and I loved how it "swished" when I walked.

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The top is my fourth version of New Look 6407.   

The wrinkles are from wearing the outfit all day.

Remember these?

Yeah, I got rid of that foolishness.  I am MUCH happier with the latest version. 

I didn't use french seams in sewing this version; instead, I serged the seams to one side and pressed.  Better finish in less time.  Score!

Many people rave about Pam's interfacing at Fashion Sewing Supply.  Well +1 me to that bandwagon.  I hesitated for a long time because this stuff is expensive, but it is SO worth it.

Look at that awesome crispness!  I don't think I will ever use a different interfacing in my shirts again.  You can tell that the facing is interfaced because the fabric's natural wrinkles don't even show up!  That is some serious product.

The sewing instructions weren't too clear on which side of the collar and stand should be interfaced:  upper vs. under collar and inner vs. outer stand.  So I emailed Pam and she said that any piece that faces the body receives lightweight or NO interfacing.  So the under collar, inside collar stand, and inside cuffs (if I had any) are not interfaced.  Following her suggestions made such a huge difference in how the collar lays on my neck.

Now if only I can get those damn collar points to be...um...pointy.

Anyway.  I am totally stoked about my first two finished garments of 2015.  Woot.

I've started working on Simplicity 4077.

I tried sewing this about 8 years ago when I was still learning about FBAs and fit.  Now that I have a good fitting blouse with shoulder princess seams, I'm going to try to alter this one to fit.  

I love me some New Look 6407, but that V-neck is quite scandalous.  I had to wear a tank top underneath the teal one for work because there was all kinds of flashing going on.  I'm eager to try this Simplicity pattern.  

I saw a review where someone made the one with ruffles in a black eyelet.  It was so cute!  I have some black eyelet in the stash too!  Details (good or bad) coming soon.  Eventually.  Hopefully. =)

Until next time, peace!

L

2014 Sewing Year in Review

Despite making 35 garments this year, I don't feel as if I sewed that much.  

(not pictured:  Simplicity 2365, Jalie 2908 skinified, and New Look 6274 ikat print)

The Stats (includes wadders)

By garment:

• 18 tops
• 5 jackets
• 6 skirts
• 3 pairs of pants (2 are wadders)
• 2 pairs of jeans
• 1 coat

By company:

• 2 McCall's
• 5 Kwik Sew
• 5 Simplicity
• 9 New Look
• 1 BWOF
• 1 Indygo Junction
• 8 from RTW
• 4 Jalie

Favorites

Indygo Junction 740: This pattern is at the top of the list for the second year in a row.  I made it back in June because (a) I really liked the fabric and (b) it was my entry to the outerwear contest on PR.  Not only do I truly love wearing this coat, I won second place in the contest.  Squee! 

Kwik Sew 2895: This is a surprise second favorite.  After meeting Valerie in Australia last year, I knew I had to have a denim jacket like hers.  Even though I bought the same pattern (Butterick 5616), I sewed the Kwik Sew instead.  I can't tell you how much I adore this thing!  It's my go-to topper and can be paired with a dress, skirt, jeans, or trousers.  I've worn it so much, I'm afraid it might start falling apart.

McCall's 6654:  Everything about this pattern is awesome sauce.  There are only three pieces and can be made from cut to hem in under two hours.  You can probably make it in less time, but I give myself room for error.  Lots of error. 

BWOF 11-2009-125: I can't leve off the funky bells.  Bell-bottoms may be oh-so-70s, but I'm rockin' 'em anyway. 

Jalie 2559: This will always be my blazer staple; I made it three times in 2014!  I will branch off and try other jacket patterns, but I know that if I get frustrated I can always return to this TNT.  

Wadders
I'm getting much better at picking patterns that suit my body, but fabric selection still needs some work.  I learned that I don't like stretch cotton poplin that much and not all rayon-poly-lycras are created equal.  I don't have many photos because I was bad at documenting the failures.  I think it's helpful to talk about wins and losses and will get better at it this year.

UFOs carried into 2015
McCall's 5525 (trench coat) and New Look 6407 (button-front blouse) will be finished this year.  I don't remember what stopped me on the trench coat, but I am so close to being done it would be criminal to not finish!  The New Look blouse just needs the collar, buttonholes, and hem. 

2014 Sewing Intention Results

• Continue to shop the stash:  Done and done.  Fabric is still everywhere, but I used considerably more stash this year than in previous years.
• Work on a full-length winter coat:  Nerp.  Gotta add this to the 2015 list.
• Make a trench coat:  See section titled "UFOs carried into 2015."
• Go fabric light:  Let's call this one a tie.
• Sew a woven button-front blouse:  Win!  Not only did I make and wear New Look 6407, I learned how to convert a two-darted bodice to shoulder princess seams.  I see many more versions of this one in the future.  

Stashbusting Challenge 2014

Last January, I made a pledge to use at least 30 pieces of stash fabric and 10 patterns.  I used 34 pieces of stash totaling 48.5 yards and 7 patterns.  Another win!  The pledge is definitely on for 2015. This time, I am committing to using 50 pieces of stash and 10 patterns.

2015 Sewing Intentions

• Sew exclusively from the stash and not buy fabric:  This will be a challenge!
• Make a full-length super warm and tailored winter coat:  I have the supplies and traced the pattern.  I need to get my mind in coat mode and make the muslin.
• Make a bra:  I keep putting this off every year.  Shopping for bras is worse than shopping for shoes and I really have to get on this!
• Start from Scratch:  The Vivienne Files has a whole series on how to build a wardrobe using a selected color palette.  I watched Sharon (Petite and Sewing) build hers from beginning to end and love how she was able to create such a diverse wardrobe.  I really want to update my "look" and think this is a good place to start.  To see the evolution of Sharon's wonderful wardrobe, click on "Starting from Scratch" in her blog labels area.
• Sew one BWOF magazine pattern per month:  This will also be a challenge since "oooo shiny" seems to dominate my sewing interest.  

So that's it for the 2014 year in review.  I would like to thank everyone who reads my ramblings.  Again I am very grateful to be a part of this community of people who like to share their passion for sewing. 

I wish everyone a wonderful new year!  

L