2020 Make Nine Challenge

The good thing about having a stash of fabric and patterns is that there is a lot to choose from.  The bad thing about having a stash of fabric and patterns is that there is a lot to choose from.  o_O

Hello indecision.

It's taken me all month to decide what I wanted to do for the 2020 Make Nine Challenge.  After thinking about it for a long time, I narrowed the choices down to five:

• patterns I've wanted to sew (similar to 2019 Make Nine)
• sew only Burda magazine patterns (the stash is deep)
• fabric acquired whilst traveling (have at least one piece per country)
• fabric bought from a local nonprofit (have pieces dating as far back as 2014)
• fabric that's been in the stash forever (some pieces are at least ten years old)

The more I thought about the last three options, the more I became overwhelmed with trying to make the chosen fabrics coordinate.  My cutting table was a mess of fabric swatches, patterns/magazines, and frustration. I had to let those ideas go because my motivation for doing the challenge started to wane.

The Burda magazine make9 was intriguing because there are so many patterns that I've wanted to sew for some time.  But as I started pulling magazines, the "make9" became "make16" and now stands at "make12." 

This is too much.

So I went back to what worked last year:  patterns from any company that I've wanted to sew.

 Top Row

• Burda 10-2012-113:  I seriously love Dressmaking Debacles' version of this jacket and since she is probably not going to give it to me, I have to make my own. =P  I have wool bouclé and coordinating wool double knit that will hopefully work nicely.
• Simplicity 2215:  I don't know why I like this, I just do.  I have a wild cotton print that I think will make this a fun dress to wear.
• Burda 9-2006-126:  I have a lot of wool coating and this looks simple enough to do.  This is kind of a primer for making the *epic wool winter coat* project that I am procrastinating.

Middle Row

• New Look 6150:  I don't know why it's taken me so long to sew this top.  Each new version I see makes me want it more!
• Blue Calla Amaryllis:  When I travel, I usually take my backpack as my carry-on.  I want a more 'grown up' bag - unless I'm literally backpacking.
• Vogue 9029:  I follow a sewer on Instagram that makes the most awesome shirts.  She made this shirt in a stripe and it looks soooo good.  I have plenty of striped shirtings to make this happen.

Bottom Row

• Burda 2-2005-129:  Again with the ruffles.  I have some of the rainbow striped linen from JoAnn (you know the fabric I'm talking about...that fabric).  I think it would be neat with this pattern. 
• Jale 2561:  I tried this pattern years ago and was really happy with the fit.  Unfortunately, the zipper area was a sewing disaster.  I didn't quite understand the directions and flubbed it something awful.  I want to try it again because I really need pants.
• Ottobre 5-2019-107:  Though this hasn't been on the radar for a long time, I like concept:  high waist, no waistband, and belt.  Plus, again, I need pants.

January was a slow sewing month.  My machine has been in the shop since 23 December 2019.  Waaaaah!  My dealer identified the problem with the buttonhole feature and is fixing it.  Unfortunately, they're waiting for the part to come in and who knows when that will be.

L

 

2019 Sewing Year in Review

It feels like I sewed more in 2019 than in 2018.  But when I compared sewn yardage, the totals are about the same.  I think the difference may be in the style and quality of the garments I made this year.  I seem to be picking more frilly/ruffly styles and patterns that have more-involved and/or new-to-me techniques.

[not pictured:  Jalie 2908 (jeans), 1 version of Burda 3-2009-131 (men's shirt)]

I made 28 wearable garments for me, 3 shirts for the dude, and a purse.  I've worn everything pictured at least once except for the distressed knit top (too baggy) and a bouclé skirt (too small).

The Statistics

 

 Apparently, I really like making and wearing skirts.

 

Compared to last year, I sewed the exact amount of non-stash (purchased in 2019) fabric and about 10 more yards of stash (purchased before 2019) fabric.  If I sew more non-stash than stash, then I need to re-evaluate the stash and do a serious purge.  Or stop buying new fabric.  Or both.

 

Like last year, Jalie and Burda were clear winners.  The drafting for both companies is good, consistent, and works for me.  I didn't make as many muslins this year because I know my Burda/Jalie size and the adjustments needed for fitting.

Having documented my sewing over the years, I see that I definitely gravitate to a handful of companies.  I haven't sewn or bought a Vogue pattern in YEARS and rarely do I sew Butterick.  Again, this tells me I need to purge some patterns if I'm not going to use them.

Favorites

McCall's 7906:  When I saw this pattern making rounds in the sewing community, I had to have it.  It's got so many nice features:  pleats, button front, and pockets! 

A size-18 muslin showed that the waist was a bit too big.  So I removed 1/4" from the front pleats and added 1/2" as a full-seat adjustment.

The fabric and buttons were both purchased at Fabricville in Canada.  

Burda 6425:  I bought this pattern on a whim since it was on sale.  It's not my usual style, but something about the sleeve ties and elastic hem drew me in.  

  

I cut a straight 16 and didn't make any alterations as there was plenty of wearing ease.  I loved the top so much that I made two!  

I have never been a 'girly' girl, but something has changed in the last few years.  I want ruffles and ties and frills and pink.  Who is this person?! 

Burda 6426:  Again, this is a pattern that didn't initially catch my attention until I saw Maggie Elaine's version on Instagram.  It's a simple darted top with collar stand and collar. But it has tiny ruffles on the sleeve hem!  Aaaaaaaaaah!  

Here I'm wearing the shirt with McCall's 7906.  It was my favorite summer outfit!

New Look 6831 (top) & Burda 3-2007-117 (skirt):  What started out as a questionable purchase turned into my most loved outfit made this year.  Both fabrics were purchased secondhand at a local nonprofit fabric sale.  When I showed my friend Anne the floral fabric (a wonderful rayon challis), she said it didn't 'look like me.'  In other words, she didn't see it as something I would normally buy.  She was right, though I couldn't let it go and I'm so glad I didn't.  

The dude said the print looks like some granny's couch.  o_O  What does he know? =)

I also picked up New Look 6831 at the same fabric sale and decided this was the perfect fabric-pattern marriage.  I traced a size 16, made a 3/4" FBA and converted the darted front to shoulder princess seams.  I used six 1/2" buttons to close the front.
 

The sleeve hem is gathered with 3/8" elastic and that the necktie is part of the collar.  I can't get enough of this shirt! 

 

The skirt is made from a stretch wool crepe with the most beautiful hand and drape.  It's hard to see in the picture that the front has a large ruffle that connects to the front panel.  The pattern is form-fitting and hugs my hips in all the right ways.  L.O.V.E.

I made my usual full seat adjustment and followed the tips in this review for construction.

Honorable mention

Simplicity 8470:  I'll be honest:  when I finished this coat, I hated it because the front doesn't close in a way that conceals the zipper tape.  It's not clear in this picture, but when I wear it, the front pulls apart most horribly.  It's not a fit issue, it's a the-front-overlap-isn't-wide-enough issue.

So the coat lingered in my closet until October.  When the weather turned cold, but not cold enough for a down coat, I decided to give this coat a try.  And you know what?  I wore it every single day!  The front gape isn't as bad...well...actually it is pretty bad.  I just stopped worrying about it. =)  This coat is so warm and the gigantic hood keeps my head nice and toasty.  I guess it pays to let garments sit in the magic closet to marinate a bit.

Wadders/UFOs

• Ottobre 5-2012-7  (tried three times; there will not be a fourth any time soon)
• Burda 6426 (started a second version; fabric is too heavy)
• Burda 9-2006-104 (pink trench coat with disaster interfacing is out for recycling)
• Burda 5-2005-120 (love the pattern; major issues sewing the ruffles)

Menswear

For the first time, I made three shirts for the dude.  I normally do not sew for anyone else, but he's a keeper so he gets a pass.

The pattern is Burda 3-2009-131 and fits him nearly perfectly.  I made a 3/8" broad back adjustment (he swims a lot) and gave him a bit more width in the upper chest area.  He really likes them and is happy with both versions. I also made him a short-sleeved version of this pattern, but don't have any pictures. 

 2020 Sewing Intentions

• reduce fabric buying:  I have enough and don't need more.  I intend to be more conscious of fabric purchases and return to tracking spending.  Overall I am purchasing less fabric compared to ten years (!!) ago.  Still, I can be more mindful and use more of what I have.
• continue to use more stash:  This is always a goal.
• Make Nine 2020:  I had so much fun with the challenge last year, I'm in again.  I have two plans in the works and need to settle on one.
• Boob Camp:  Bra-makers Supply host a 5-day workshop on making bras.  While I successfully made a bra two years ago, I want to get better and make some of their other styles.  This is my sewing splurge for the year.
• just sew it:  This has helped me to keep the sewjo going.  If I don't get too worked up about fit, I feel more relaxed and eager to sew.
• just let it go:  Sometimes I feel bad about wasting fabric and supplies.  But when something isn't working and I've lost motivation, there's no point in trying to make it happen.  I intend to try a few times, but at few + 1, I'm done.

That's it for 2019.  Personal life often forces blogging about sewing to the end of the to-do list.  Time and energy permitting, I hope to continue to share my sewing adventures with the community.

 

I offer sincere thanks to all who stop by.  Happy new and peaceful new year.

L