Burda Style Skirt (11-2017) & Top (12-2017)

top:  12-2017-111

skirt:  11-2017-106

I love a good Burda skirt, so when I saw 106 in the November issue I knew I was going to make it.  When I saw Dressmaking Debacles' review, I paused other sewing projects and began working on it.

 (Ugh...the copyright year!  Ironically, googling how to change it has not been fruitful).

Look at that front!  Angled and topstitched seams?  Yes, please!

The fabric is wool tweed from the stash which pressed and sewed beautifully - like all wool tweeds. 

I traced a size 44, but ended up taking 3/4"+ seam allowances on both sides.  I am still working out my Burda size and think either a 44 with larger seam allowances is the way to go.  I made Burda 6635 in a 42 and it's snug - not terribly uncomfortable - but snug enough to skip dessert and maybe some of lunch.

I did a 1" full seat adjustment for the trunk junk and removed 2" in length.  I did not add a hem allowance.

Although it's hard to see, each of the front diagonal seams are topstitched.  I didn't want the skirt to look too sporty, so I used thread that would blend in.

The skirt is lined and faced at the waist with petersham.  The pattern doesn't come with lining pieces.  Since there was no way I was cutting all those front pieces again - out of slippery lining fabric, mind you - I just traced around the already-assembled front to make a pattern.  Boom. 

It's funny how I love all the seams until I'm ready to sew them.  Hah!

I love this skirt; I wore it for a solid 24 hours (loooong story) and it held up.  Incidentally, I think I need to find a new, new dry cleaner.  This is the third garment I've gotten back from them where the pressing looks like shit.  Moving on...

This top is not something I would have made had I not seen it on someone else.

The line drawing does nothing for me and I can't even remember how it looked on the model.  It's that uninspiring.

But then I saw Lilly's version (on Instagram) and tsedai's pattern review and was all in.

I cut size 42 in the neck and armhole and size 44 on the sides.  I did not make an FBA or add a hem allowance.  

The top is VERY boxy and not in a good way.  (Is there every a way boxy is good?)

When I tried it on, I was so disappointed.  The top was huge and unsightly.  Determined to not be defeated, I took out the pattern for a raglan top that I made a few times, Simplicity 1945, and laid it on top.  Look at all that extra width!  And remember, the Simplicity top has seam allowances!  

I trimmed the side seams of the front and back to the Simplicity top plus a seam allowance.  Although the Simplicity top fits well, I wanted a little more room for this top.  I also rounded out the hem.

Sewing the sleeve ruffle was not easy because the seam joining the upper and lower sleeve is extremely curved.  

That curve is no joke and has to be sewn carefully.  Plus, you have to baste the ruffle to the upper sleeve wrong side to right side, upside down, and try to keep the ruffle out of the way when stitching.  Not thinking ahead, I made the mistake of using 5/8" seam allowances when 3/8" would have given better control.  I had to pick stitches in a few places because of puckers.

Love, love, LOVE the shoulder area on the back.  Is there something magical about the Burda raglan sleeve??

I left all of the ruffle edges raw.  The fabric is a lightweight merino wool knit (from the stash) and a rolled hem was too heavy.

I sewed the seams on my sewing machine first, then finished together on my serger.

Both the skirt and top are new favorites that I am sure will get lots of wear.

Up next:  I'm working on my BAM (Burda-a-Month) pattern for January.  Well, actually I'm working on three Burda patterns. o_O  I really need to get a handle on the effects of Ooooo...shiny!

Maybe I'll start working on that 2017 Year in Review post.  Maybe.

Until next time, peace!