Even though I pretty much know my Burda size, occasionally I still make muslins to gauge fit. As this coat has a particular style and my fabric was expensive, I wanted to make sure that I understood the construction steps.
Usually when I make a muslin, I don't include facings, collars, pockets, or anything that doesn't pose a fit challenge. But with this coat, I cut out every non-lining piece - including the facings. There are three different separate facing pieces and I wanted to know how they all worked.
The front facing is stitched to the dolman sleeve and the the free edge of the facing is stitched to the bodice. This gives that "floating" look of the the gun flap.
The back facing, dolman sleeve, and back bodice are stitched similarly.
The inner and outer hood are both cut from shell fabric. Once the hood is attached, the back neck facing is stitched to the bodice self-facings and the neckline enclosed in one long seam. This might present a problem because of the number of layers stitched in this area. I thought about using lining fabric for the inner hood to reduce bulk, but I don't want the contrast fabric to show on the outside. I'll have to think about this.
For the most part, assembling the upper front went smoothly. It will be time consuming with all of the pieces, interfacing, topstitching, pressing, and buttonholes, but it won't be a challenge.
Next I'll talk about sewing the lower front and those pockets. 😬
L
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