Jeans #9 (Part 1 - prep)

That's eight pairs of Jalie 2908.  Eight.  What can I say?  I love making and wearing jeans.  

Currently, I only wear five of the eight because one pair stretched out so much that I can take them off without unzipping or unbuttoning.  The other two are too small because...well...chocolate happens.

So I'm working on #9.  This time around, I've decided to carefully document the time it takes to make one pair and photo the process as I go along.  Oftentimes people ask me how long it takes to make them and I never have an answer.  A few hours?  A few days?

Prepping the Fabric (time not counted)

I always wash and dry my denim three times before I cut.  I learned to do this after my first pair shrunk considerably after I made them.   I like the hem of my jeans/pants to touch the top of my shoes.  This pair shows way too much shoe.  

I don't add any fabric softener or conditioners to the water.  After the third drying session, I immediately remove the fabric from the dryer and iron out all of the wrinkles.  I've found that leaving the fabric in the dryer causes some (most?) of the wrinkles to set.

I didn't time this part because I washed and dried over a couple of weeks.  I try to combine loads as much as possible so I only handled the denim when I had something to wash.

Cutting Out the Pieces/Prepping Machines (33 minutes)

Since I've made this pattern so many times already, cutting out didn't take much time.  The pieces are already prepared and altered to fit.  I still have to cut out the pocket lining and interfacing.  I'll add this in a separate section.

To sew jeans (or anything with topstitching), I set up three machines.  I usually sew the seams first, serge them together, press the seam to one side, then add a double row of topstitching. 

older picture of machine set-up for jeans sewing

That's all I have for now.  I started designing the back pockets and will share those details in the next post.   Currently I'm working on my last UFO (Vogue 8426) which I'm making in denim and including lots of topstitching.  I hope to finish that soon, but I think I'm getting sick so we'll see how that goes.

Until next time, peace!

L

Notions Store, Fabric Score, and a New Machine

My Go-to Notions Store:  Cleaner's Supply
I first learned about Cleaner's Supply from fellow PR member nancy2001.  The store primarily sells items for dry cleaning businesses, but they offer a nice selection of tailoring supplies:  zippers, buttons, chalk, machine and hand needles, seam rippers, Maxi-Lock and Gutermann thread, scissors, etc.  Pretty much any basic notion can be found at the store and at prices that simply can't be beat.  For example, a 9-inch invisible zipper at JoAnn's costs $2.49.  At Cleaner's Supply, a 9" YKK invisible zipper is $0.44 and $0.39 if you buy 10 or more.  Shipping is highly reasonable at a flat rate of $3.83 for orders under $100 and free for orders above $100.

The staff has always been courteous and willing to help.  On my last order, I needed to purchase some Hug Snug rayon seam binding to finish my brown floral silk charmeuse top.  When I called to inquire about shipping times, the young man took my order over the phone, had the order pulled and ready to ship upon receipt of my check.  How cool is that? Also, I've never had a problem with an incorrect order or missing items. 

I was not asked to write a review of the store nor am I getting any reward for doing so.  I am just very pleased with their products and service and wanted to share it with you.

Major Fabric Score
It's bad enough that sewing friends are enablers.  But non-sewing friends too?  This can't be good!  My friend alerted me to a huge fabric sale going on at a local non-profit organization.  The non-profit uses recycled materials from many industries to help make art projects for children and adults.  Donations are used to help run the program and sponsor other local activities.  The suggested donation for this event was nominal and totally worth it.  Here's what I got:

blue-cream wool houndstooth, 1.5 yds
multi-colour wool tweed, 1.5 yds

off-white wool tweed, 1.25 yds
purple with pink highlights wool boucle, 1 yd

cobalt blue wool flannel, 2.5 yds
purple wool herringbone, 3 yds

wool (and possibly silk) tweed, 2.875 yds

camel wool flannel, 1.75 yds

cotton blend boucle, 3.375 yds

I got AAAALLLL of this for under $20.  I really do not need any more fabric and certainly no more wool.  But, I couldn't pass it up.

New Machine:  Singer 99k

 

I do not have the desire to collect multiple sewing machines.  I have two machines, a serger, and a coverstitch machine and this small group of machines satisfies all of my sewing needs.  The acquisition of the Singer 99k was totally on impulse.

I was at a recycling center emptying my car of recyclables when I saw this little table conveniently resting right next to my car.  I knew it was a sewing machine before evening opening the lid.  The recycling center's manager said the machine had been there for over a month and that he hadn't the chance to take it to their affiliated resale store.  I suggested that he cut out the middle man and just sell it to me today.  =)  That way, he wouldn't have to deal with the fuss of moving the machine, researching a fair price, and marketing it for sale.  I offered him $50 and he agreed.  I thought it was fair based on my limited knowledge of vintage machines and its current condition.

I had the machine serviced at my local dealer and was happy to learn that it didn't need much work.  It sews a great straight stitch and came with several extra attachments (of which I have no idea how to use).  I think the machine will be quite useful when sewing lightweight fabric.  In my pattern review of the silk charmeuse top, I didn't mention the difficulty I experienced in sewing it.  Trust me, it was a royal PITA.  While handling the slippery fabric wasn't much of a problem, preventing the fabric from getting caught below the plate was difficult.  A straight-stitch plate and foot would have been immensely helpful.  For my next project of this sort, I will use the new Singer.  I'll have to figure out to thread it first, though. =)

That's it for now.  I've joined Faye's Carnival of Skirts sew along and hope to get three skirts completed during this time.  We shall see. =)

Thank you for your support on winning the contest.  I am still over the moon about it!  Until next time, be well!

L