Bedazzled Jeans & a Knit Top

This is jeans number...I have no idea.  I stopped counting a while ago.

I bedazzled my butt.  Is bedazzling still a thing?  Was it ever really?

Though there is nothing new to report in the construction, I finally swapped out the waistband for something better.  For a long time, I've hated sewing the waistband and detested how it looked afterward even more.  Behold my shame:

Sometimes I can get it to work...

...but oftentimes the waistband edge ends up like the first two pictures.  The topstitching is super tiny and uneven.  Blah.
 

Jennifer Stern once showed me how to she sews jeans waistbands, so I decided to give it a try.  I used the waistband and waistband facing from her pattern, cut to a size 14 for extra length.

Attaching the waistband this way was SOOOO much better - though I don't like the flimsiness of the waistband facing.  Next time, I'll either interface the facing or use denim instead of quilting cotton.  I like my waistbands to have a bit of heft.

Also, I can probably use a size 12 waistband with a small swayback adjustment.  The jeans are wearable, but I will always need a belt.

***

I made a knit top.  From a pattern released this year.  Without a muslin. 

Who is this woman?!

I made view A in a similarly-colored rayon jersey.  I cut a size medium and made no other alterations.  

 

I cut the neckband to a length 85% of the neckline circumference.  This was approximately 24 inches plus two 1/2-inch seam allowances.  I think this worked well, but the neckline is still rather wide.

I swear my sewing is regressing by the day.  My coverstitch skills are lacking big time.

I don't like the tight stitches and will try lengthening the stitch on my next knit top.  Otherwise, I'll have to go back to using a twin needle.

No pictures for now.  I hope to get some photos next week.

***

I finished Jalie 3130 and have A LOT to say about this, so I'll save it for the next post.

Until then, peace!
 
L

Skinnifying Jalie 2908

 

I finished the second pair of skinnified Jalie 2908 two weeks ago.  I am a sedated turtle at blogging, I know.  Anyway, the jeans passed the roller skating test, so they're good to go. No seams popped and they didn't feel too tight with all of the movement.  

The first pair was finished sometime last fall.

Honestly, I don't know if these quite qualify as "skinny jeans."  There is still a bit of bagginess around the ankle and kness and they're not skin-tight.

Anyway, removing the flare from the pattern wasn't difficult at all.  Some time ago, Faye posted a link to Nick Verreos' video on how to convert boot cut jeans to skinny jeans.  He suggests making an adjustment to the inseam only.  I didn't like this because I thought it might cause an imbalance in the hang of the hem.  So while I used his idea as a starting point, ultimately I did my own thing at the end.

Using the pattern pieces from a pair of BWOF skinny jeans I made over a year ago, I measured the front and back hem for my base.  

On the front pattern piece, I subtracted 1.5" (3.8 cm) from both the inseam and outseam for a total of 3" (7.6 cm) removed.  The picture below shows the original J2908 on top and modified J2908 on bottom.

On the back, I subtracted 1.5" (3.8 cm) from the inseam and 1.75" (4.4 cm) from the outseam for a total of 3.25 (8.3 cm) removed.  Again, the original J2908 is on top and the modified pattern is on the bottom.

In Nick's video, he tapered the reduction all the way up to the hip area.  I tapered mine to the knee because I didn't want the jeans to be too tight.  

 
That's pretty much it!  Like I said, I don't know if these are true skinny jeans, but I'm happy with them! 

 

 GOMI-worthy pose.  Yeah, I lurk.

These jeans are part of step 4 from the Starting from Scratch series.  Next is a white button-down to go along with the accessories from step 5.  Once I redo the cardigan and knit tee, I'll post an update with pictures.

Until next time, peace!

L

BWOF 11-2009-125 (funky bellbottoms): Complete

This seemed like the project that would never end.  Fortunately, it has.  Unfortunately, it's not my best work.  I'll definitely rock (ring?) these bells, but there is definitely room for improvement!

(top:  McCall's 6078, jacket Jalie 2559) 

Fabric/Notions:

• 2 yards of medium to heavyweight denim
• 7" metal zipper
• topstitching thread
• fusible interfacing
• 7 metal jeans tacks
• 80/12 universal needle for seams
• 100/16 universal needle for topstitching
• fabric scraps for pocket and belt loop lining

Pattern Instructions:  Typical BWOF word maze.  I didn't really follow them since I've sewn jeans before. In this order, I:  sewed the front and back vertical seams, inserted the zipper using the instructions from Jalie 2908, sewed the back crotch seam, and topstitched the inseams (described below).  I sewed the side seams, waistband, belt loops, and hem as usual.

Alterations and Fit:  Originally, I started with size 44, but took off so much (about 3 inches total) from the  seams, I probably ended up sewing size 40.  That's good news considering I picked up about six pounds (!!!) from my most recent ailment.  Ugh.  Comfort food played a big role in the weight gain...but still...six pounds? 

I removed a total of five inches of length:  three in the leg area (1.5 above and below the knee), one from the hem, and one from the waist.  Although removing the extra inch from the waist helped in positioning the jeans on my waist where I like it, I could stand to remove about another inch because the front crotch is still too long.  Is this a thing with Burda pants? 

Topstitching (A Lesson in Faking It):  With four godets on each leg, I didn't think the jeans would look right with topstitching only on the outer seams.  This meant I would have to topstitch one of those seams in a tube.  I tried it with basting stitches and gave up around mid-thigh.  There was just too much fabric bunched up around the needle.  There just had to be a better way to get the same effect without the hassle.  

My solution?  I faked it.  Before sewing the inseams, I topstitched them while they were flat.  I sewed a guideline on the seam line and topstitched 1/8" to the outside of this line.  Then I sewed and topstitched the side seams as normal.  Lastly I sewed the inseams, taking care to keep an even seam allowance so that the line of topstitching would be visible and even.  You know what?  The faked topstitching lines look MUCH better than the real ones.  Figures.

I ended up pressing all of the vertical seams open because I didn't like how much bulk was created around the godets.  There are areas where there is a little bit of bulk, but it's not too bad.

Construction:  I relied heavily on Katie's (Kadiddlehopper) blog post to sew this pair.  I took cues from her on topstitching the seams and lining the pocket flaps/belt loops. 

The only thing that gave me problems was sewing the buttonhole.  My machine did not like doing this at all.  I sewed a few practice buttonholes only to have to pick out the 'real ones' twice.  The final attempt resulted in a buttonhole that's about 1/4" too small.  The jeans tack still fits, but it's a struggle and I don't know how secure this will be in the long run.  

In pottery, if there is an area of the piece that is imperfect, potters often use something (a design, chattering, or more clay) to cover it up.  Picking stitches 0.4mm long is a PITA.  I couldn't pick them all, so I covered them up with a little decorative stitch.  Meh.  Like I said, not my best work.

Conclusion:  I'll wear these jeans, but I doubt they'll be in the regular rotation as much as my other jeans.  Despite trying them on during construction, they're still too big in many places.  Even though this is a very distinctive style, I will probably sew them again just to get the fit and sewing right.  I am by no means a perfectionist, but I know I can do better.

Peaking out from the jeans are leopard print patent leather flats.  I *love* this look, but hate that the flats are uncomfortable.  O_o  They have soft soles too!  Ugh!

More pics:

Up next:  I have no idea.  I need tops, so maybe that's what I'll work on next. Until next time, peace!

Feedback & Funky Bells Update

First some feedback...

Thank you for the comments on my jacket.  I like it and can definitely see more versions in my regular rotation.  I hope to snap a picture of me wearing it once I finish the funky bells.

Faye asked:  "What type of fusible interfacing did you use?"

I used a medium-weight fusible that I found at Haberman Fabrics years ago.  I bought all they had since they said they would no longer be able to order it.  I use it for special projects like this because of its weight and stability. 

Sarah Liz asked:  "What sort of lining do you use?"

I use Bemberg Ambiance 100% rayon lining for almost all of my lined garments.  The lining washes, dries, and presses well.  It's shifty and, at times, can be a pain to handle.  Aside from silk or Kasha flannel-backed cotton/acetate lining, I wouldn't line with anything else.

Up next, the funky bells update...

Sooooooo...I basted the seams together and tried on the jeans.  What did I learn?  I could fit two people in these bad boys.

Holy big jeans.  These things are ginormous.  I started with the same size (44) as the last pair because I thought I needed the extra room since my denim has no stretch.  When I compared the pattern pieces to Jalie 2908, I thought they looked rather big.  But I forged on anyway because the Jalie jeans are made for stretch denim.

I was wrong.  I'm so glad I didn't do any topstitching.  I would have been in a sour mood if I had to undo all of that.  I picked everything apart and started over.  I sewed at 3/4" along the front and back vertical seams.  For the side and inseams, I trimmed off 1/4" and then sewed at 5/8".  This amounts to a total reduction of 3 inches!  The fit is much better now, though I could have taken off a bit more across the front.

I'll also need to do something about that mile-long front crotch.  

Do you see that??  This can't be normal.  I don't remember the front crotch being this long on the skinny jeans or else I would have altered the pattern before cutting my fabric.  Maybe I've been wearing low-rise jeans for so long that I've forgotten what regular-rise looks like.  I don't know.  What I do know is that I am definitely lopping that shit off.  

For comparison, here is a copy of the zipper area for Jalie 2908:

Yeah, man.  That foolishness has to go.  I think taking off an inch will do; that will leave enough for a seam allowance.  I was concerned that shorting the length at the waist might throw off the waistband.  But I've already done that by taking those bigger seam allowances.  Meh.  I'll make it work somehow.

As for the overall length of the jeans, yeah I'm short.  Whatareyagonnado?  I'll probably have to lop off an inch or two before I sew the hem.

This is a picture of one of the godets topstitched.  The jeans have four godets on each leg:  front, back, and both sides.  I want to topstitch all seams, but doing so will involve topstitching one seam in a tube.  I've tried that before - it's not fun.  I'm going to practice doing it while I have the pants basted.  If I can't get it to work, then I'll have to figure out something else.  Kadiddlehopper was able to topstitch all eight vertical seams successfully.  She suggests topstitching the inseams last so that any wonkiness is  hidden.  We'll see how that goes.

That's all for now.  Until next time, peace everyone!

L

January 2014: Good Riddance!

Oy.

Snow.  Arctic temperatures.  More snow.  Crazy, yet minor, medical issue that has kept me off my feet and out of the gym and rink for TWO weeks.  Family drama.  Weight gain because I haven't worked out in a while and probably won't for at least another week.  No sewjo.

February, be nice, mmmkay?

On the sewing front...

The KLM jacket is still not finished.  I sat down at my sewing machine for the first time in over two weeks and finally fixed the notched collar.  I need to attach the sleeve lining to sleeve hem and finish bagging the lining.  

I also started another pair of jeans - but not from Jalie.  This time, I'm using a BWOF magazine pattern:  11-2009-125.  

It's the same pattern out of which I made my skinny jeans that are now more like jogging pants because of the stretch.  Wild huh?  I'm bringing the 70s back with a vengeance.  I'm almost 40 (!!!) but I think I can still rock funky bell bottoms.  See that's the thing about being my age:  I'm old enough to know better, but young enough to not give a shit. =)  

Happy February everyone!

L

Mystery Project: Complete

Alright peeps.  The big reveal is a few words away.  Either this garment is fantastic or fug.  Hmm...fantastically fug?

I bought the fabric from Vogue Fabric during their visit to this year's American Sewing Expo.  Fabric can be mesmerizing sometimes.  I passed on this print the first time thinking it was hideous.  But something kept drawing me back to it, so I caved and bought 2.5 yards.  It is unlike anything I have in my wardrobe and not a print I would normally wear - especially not like this...

Tada!  Yep.  I made another pair of jeans out of this cRaZy fabric.  

Sewing the jeans actually took about 5 hours at the most.  The hardest part was trying to line up the pattern pieces to keep print semi-symmetric.  One circle sits a bit higher on one leg, but you can't really tell.  Well, actually you can, but whatever. =)

I tried really hard to maintain a vertical line down the outside seam.  The end result isn't what I envisioned, but it's not bad either.  I'm happy with it.  There was just no way to keep it consistent with all the curvature in the side pattern piece.

I cut out two sets of pockets - one with circles and one without.  I thought long and hard about putting the circles on my butt.  In the end (hah!) I decided against it - I'm too old for all of that "attention."

In the pictures, I'm wearing the jeans with Kwik Sew 3558 (jacket) and McCall's 6078 (cowl-neck top).  I'm thinking of making a cardigan or pullover out of a bright yellow ponte knit to wear with them.  

The verdict:  I LOVE these jeans.  I really do.  I am a little nervous about wearing them outside, though.  I think they look like pajama pants. I'm sure I'll get over that eventually. In fact, I might wear this whole outfit skating tonight.  I'll let you know how that goes!

L

Contouring a Waistband

A straight rectangular waistband is no good for a person with trunk junk.  The waistband will gap at the center back and cause unnecessary exposure.  To contour the waistband, I used the instructions provided by Jennifer Stern in her "Blueprints to Better Jeans" class on PR.  

1.  The first thing I did was draw the straight grainline since I don't cut my waistband on the bias.

2.  Align the waistband and bake yoke pieces at the center back.  2" from the center back, draw a vertical line from the top of the waistband to the bottom of the yoke.  Draw two or three more vertical lines 2 inches apart from the first one.  The number of lines you draw depends on the amount of width you plan to remove from the waistband. 

I just had a revelation about this method for this particular waistband!  I'll share it at the end of the post.

 

3.  I removed 4 inches of width altogether.  I drew four vertical lines and will dart out 1/2" at each line.  To do this, mark 1/4" on either side of each vertical line.  Since I worked with one-half of the waistband, the amount removed on this piece is 2 inches.

The marks are in blue. 

 4.  Draw a single line connecting the left mark with the bottom of the line on the back yoke.  Repeat for the right mark.  Do this for each of the vertical lines drawn.

 

5.  Finally, fold on the vertical line, overlap the dart edges, and tape in place.  Alternatively, you can cut on one dart leg, match it with the other, and tape in place.  Do the same for the yoke piece.  The changes to the yoke piece are so small, I didn't bother taking out the excess.  I haven't had a problem with fitting the waistband to the yoke.
  

curved waistband

As I was writing this post, I thought more about how this method affects this particular waistband.  The Jalie waistband is designed to be cut into two pieces, sewn at the center back, and then joined to the pants front/back.  Then, it's folded lengthwise and topstitched.  So the waist seam is in the center of the piece.

So the amount removed is actually less than planned since the dart isn't as wide in this area.  I never realized this until now.  This may explain why my waistband still gapes a bit.  I will have to address this in future pairs of jeans.

I hope this was helpful!

L